Motive Pressure Bleeder adapter for Hondas

[Snagglefoot]

I cruised the Motive website to find a pressure bleeder cap to fit the master cylinder for a 2009 Honda with a two prong cap. They no longer have a specific cap for the application but list this universal cap for the application. Mods, I took a series of screen shots so all the information is right here. Also shown are some shots of my cap. Has anyone tried this system? Thanks.

 

[Nukeman7]

That generic Motive 1101 bleeder cap for a Honda is pure garbage! It is only good for blowing brake fluid all over your engine bay.

You will need to adapt a Honda specific cap like the CM Tools Cap to your Motive pressure bleeder.

Be aware that depending on the year and model of Honda, there are two sizes of brake reservoir caps used (56mm and 52mm?). You didn't list your specific Honda model, but most use the 56 mm cap).

 

[Snagglefoot]

That generic Motive 1101 bleeder cap for a Honda is pure garbage! It is only good for blowing brake fluid all over your engine bay.

You will need to adapt a Honda specific cap like the CM Tools Cap to your Motive pressure bleeder.

View attachment 344123

Be aware that depending on the year and model of Honda, there are two sizes of brake reservoir caps used (56mm and 52mm?). You didn't list your specific Honda model, but most use the 56 mm cap).

Thanks. My specific model is a 2009 Honda Pilot. The id using a calliper is 56 mm.

 

[Nukeman7]

Thanks. My specific model is a 2009 Honda Pilot.

The 56 mm cap fits your 2009 Pilot. However, I actually have the CTA 7030 cap, not the CM Tools cap I previously linked above. The CTA 7030 cap seals perfectly on my Hondas.

 

[Snagglefoot]

The 56 mm cap fits your 2009 Pilot. However, I actually have the CTA 7030 cap, not the CM Tools cap I previously linked above. The CTA 7030 cap seals perfectly on my Hondas.

Thanks, is that a normal air hose quick connect on top?

 

[Nukeman7]

Thanks, is that a normal air hose quick connect on top?

No it is not the same as a the quick disconnect fitting on your compressor. The fitting is unique that only fits the CTA pressure bleeder and the threads in the cap won't accommodate a conventional fitting used for pneumatic tools.

I just replaced the 1/4" i.d. tubing from the Motive bleeder and transitioned to a 1/2" i.d. tube using a double-male end brass barbed reducing coupler from Amazon. I also used fuel injection hose clamps which won't cut into the tubing and sustains higher pressure.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Thanks. I noticed from the CTA website that the fitting cap is a “ 1/2” Nitto”. It is indeed different from other male quick connects. Here is a female version of a 1/2” Nitto from CTA.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Here is a close up of the 1/2” male Nitto fitting.

 

[Snagglefoot]

All this info is very useful for people who want to covert their Motive Pressure jug to a quick connect version.

 

[slo town]

I'm not a fan of those. All you're doing is introducing moisture when you pressurize the unit. Professional pressure bleeders have a diaphragm that separates the brake fluid from the pressurized air.

Scott

 

[scrllock]

I'm not a fan of those. All you're doing is introducing moisture when you pressurize the unit. Professional pressure bleeders have a diaphragm that separates the brake fluid from the pressurized air.

Scott

Unless you can transfer the fluid from the original container to your bleeder in vacuum, there's always "moisture" but it's negligible compared to what the fluid is going to experience in actual service over time.

That said, the Motive stuff is junk these days and getting replacement parts is impossible compared to how they used to be a few years ago. The CTA versions are definitely the way to go for DIY now.

 

[Snagglefoot]

I'm not a fan of those. All you're doing is introducing moisture when you pressurize the unit. Professional pressure bleeders have a diaphragm that separates the brake fluid from the pressurized air.

Scott

That requires a study on the osmosis of air molecules under pressure for the hour or so of bleeding the brakes.

 

[Snagglefoot]

The CMtool version has yet another make coupling that is different from normal couplings.

Mods, I am doing screen shots from Amazon to describe the fittings.

Seriously, one of the reasons to use hard-to-find fittings is to keep Ya-hoo’s from hooking up an air hose and getting after it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Unless you can transfer the fluid from the original container to your bleeder in vacuum, there's always "moisture" but it's negligible compared to what the fluid is going to experience in actual service over time.

That said, the Motive stuff is junk these days and getting replacement parts is impossible compared to how they used to be a few years ago. The CTA versions are definitely the way to go for DIY now.

Yup, it looks like Motive Products is not into make more specific caps and is recommending the universal caps with chain down clamps.

 

[Snagglefoot]

From the Canadian market perspective the caps described can be obtained on Amazon.com as opposed to Amazon.ca but there is about a $10 shipping charge to Canada. The Motive website will sell you the less desirable one size fits all cap for $49 CDN plus $60 CDN shipping charge to Canada.

 

[slo town]

Unless you can transfer the fluid from the original container to your bleeder in vacuum, there's always "moisture" but it's negligible compared to what the fluid is going to experience in actual service over time.

That requires a study on the osmosis of air molecules under pressure for the hour or so of bleeding the brakes.

The surface area of the brake fluid is quite large inside the pressurized bleeder, plus when putting it under pressure the air inside the chamber ends up with much more moisture content compared to ambient. This is why air compressor tanks need draining.

Scott

 

[Snagglefoot]

The surface area of the brake fluid is quite large inside the pressurized bleeder, plus when putting it under pressure the air inside the chamber ends up with much more moisture content compared to ambient. This is why air compressor tanks need draining.

Scott

Not really. You need a complete heating and cooling cycle to condense the water. The volume of air compressed in the jug is really small compared to a compressor, it is of lower pressure and it does not get heated as much as an air compressor.

Mods, I did a screen shot to describe the process of producing water in an air compressor.

 

[slo town]

That same concept applies to the Motive bleeder, just on a smaller scale.

Scott

 

[BHopkins]

Here is another option in addition to the one that @Nukeman7 uses. More pricey, but I wanted the aluminum instead of plastic. It fits quite well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKHGMXQS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1

I'm not a fan of those. All you're doing is introducing moisture when you pressurize the unit. Professional pressure bleeders have a diaphragm that separates the brake fluid from the pressurized air.

Scott

Interesting hypothesis. But my experience doesn't validate that enough moisture is pushed into the brake fluid to make any measurable difference.

I've been using a Motive for many years now, and have done a number of brake fluid flushes with it. I also use a brake fluid moisture gauge to measure the % moisture in the brake fluid. The gauge has a range of 0-4% moisture with 1% resolution. I have never measured any moisture in brake fluid that has been added to my brake system by using the Motive method, until the brake fluid is 2 - 3 years old. It takes that long before I measure even 1% moisture. It is recommended to change brake fluid at 3% or greater moisture. My OCD means I change it much sooner than that. I've never measured 2%.

Your experience may be different, depending on the climate you live in, how humid of a day when you do a brake fluid job, and how long you leave the jug lid off, when filling it. It is a relatively dry climate where I live, with RH usually around 20-40% in the summer and 50-75% in the winter.