Mopar filters (?)

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I picked up a Mopar filter for my dodge caravan since they sell them at Walmart..Are they better than the Purolators or the Wix from Napa?
 
But I disagree..because when you look at the internals, the Mopar is completey different...seems beefier and has more parts inside. Any idea why?
 
They are made by Purolator but to Mopar specifications, they have the up front by pass valve, they are better then the Purolator labeled filters, Wix/Napa Gold are good filters also and they are also better then the Purolators.
 
Better in what sense? The Purolator filters I've had apart were of very good construction. I don't feel the WIX filters are in any way "superior".

MOPAR filters have also been FRAM in the past. Seems to vary from what I understand.
 
Originally Posted By: Petty
They are made by Purolator but to Mopar specifications, they have the up front by pass valve, they are better then the Purolator labeled filters, Wix/Napa Gold are good filters also and they are also better then the Purolators.


From what I've seen the older spec'd Mopars are still Frams. The newer applications are mainly Purolator.

The one that I inspected (for the new Charger) was basically a rebadged PureOne. What makes this better than a standard Purolator? The shiny Mopar label?
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Purolator has in fact cheapened their filters over the years, all the better filters have the up front by pass valve, Purolators used to but they cheapened the construction by eliminating this feature to save cost and that is when I quit using them, Wix/Napa Gold/ Carquest/Baldwin etc are designed to fit a wide range of vehicles with their by pass setting, however when you use a factory filter they are engineered for their product line.
 
What about the Mopars made by Fram and Champ that also don't have the up-front bypass? Seems like more of a Mopar spec than a Purolator/Fram/Champ problem.
 
I guess the Mopar MO-090 that I used have what you guys call the "up-front bypass", as you can see the coil spring and rubber seal just below the threaded center hole. Is that what you guys are referring to as the up-front bypass?

I used to use the Motorcraft FL-1A on the engine, and it had the same bypass design. I agree that it's not literally a re-badged Purolator because the same Purolator doesn't use that style of bypass. The PL14670 that I just took off my '07 Chrysler (exact same application spec as the Mopar MO-090) doesn't have that bypass valve type. The Mopar MO-090 and PureOne PL14670 definitely differ in that regard.

Anyone care to cut open a Mopar MO-090? I don't have any left...or I would (my last one went on the '07 yesterday). I will cut open the PL14670 and post pics, so that we can compare.
 
What does that coil spring/bypass part of the filter do? I don't understand what a bypass filter is...sorry for my ignorance on that subject, but I want to understand.
 
A filter bypass (valve) and a "bypass filter" are two different things, strombony.

(generically speaking)
When your oil pump goes into relief, there's a differential created across the media. To limit this inhibition to flow, and to limit the level of that differential pressure, a bypass valve is installed. It's on most filters. Those that don't have it are those installed on engines that have their own bypass mechanism.

The bypass valve is to prevent starvation of the engine when the pump is in relief. The bypass valve setting is to protect the media from too high a differential pressure.


A bypass filter is one designed to filter a limited percentage of the total oil flow that "bypasses" the engine at a very slow rate at a very high level of filtration.
 
The short answer as to what a by pass valve is for is to maintain oil flow and pressure when the filter gets plugged up.

The short answer as to what a by pass filter is is that it is not a full flow filter as the above example and as nearly everything is today. Not all the oil is routed through a by pass filter. No new car comes with a by pass filter today. The last one I'm aware of was as an option to a 55 Chevy V8 (full flow filters became standard in 56). They were common in early automobiles. Today, some people add a by pass filter for additional filtering. An example of a by pass filter is the Frantz toilet paper filter.
 
This is from the Wix web site > "UP FRONT SAFETY BY PASS VALVE > If the filter becomes plugged with dirt, it keeps oil from washing over the contaminated media and carrying that dirt back to the engine, Competitive brands place the valve in the top tier of the filter which allows oil to wash over the contaminated media carrying dirt back to the engine."
This is set by pressure with the spring, the MotorCraft Filters are also very good filters produced to Ford specifications, the nice thing about oil filters as compared to motor oil is you can actually take them apart and you can tell what company uses better quality and materials in construction without sending them to a laboratory for analysis.
 
That's mostly marketing there, Petty. No OEM, even Ford ..who INSISTS that all of their filters have an open end bypass valve, PROHIBITS the use of a dome end bypass valve. Only the Motor Craft Purolators have them ..and not all WIX have them either (although the vast majority do).

Ford's concerns (or so I've been told through OEM supplier sources) is that silt (stuff sinking out ..not embedded in the media) would be carried in suspension during startup. Before the engine is enveloped the media will see its highest (typical) PSID. It's also the most prone time for the oil pump to be in relief. This time (before full envelopment AND oil pump relief) is BY FAR the highest likelihood of bypass potential. Loading is only an additive type influence. Unless you've got a real dirty bird ..loading would rarely impact bypass action by itself.

Stuff like this is what they're trying to avoid getting entrained upon start up.

 
How does the location of the bypass valve affect that? Once the engine is started, and the system is under pressure, isn't all the silt going to get stirred up on the "dirty side" of the filter, and find its way out, regardless of the location of the bypass valve?

Apparently not, because there appear to be engineering reasons behind the valve's location, but please help me understand why.
 
The fluid enters the filter and, after factoring inertia, attempts to take a right angle turn to the interior of the filter. It's going to attempt to take a 90° turn to the shortest path "out". Now it's not going to do that and will have shearing of flows that are reduced as it (basically) has no good gosh darn reason to make the trip down to the bottom of the filter (the long path to the outlet). If it was big enough, it would be a "still well".

Now if the pressure differential is high enough, the bypass valve will open. If it's on the open end, the bypassed, unfiltered, flow just takes the short dip in an out. If the bypass is at the far end, then it bleeds off at the far end where this "silt" may be accumulated.

Quote:
Once the engine is started, and the system is under pressure,


For the most part, the only time a bypass works is during start up or during "transitional" conditions.

Let's say you've got large/long oil galleries that empty when you shut down. When you start you'll have little to provide "back pressure" to the engine side of the media. If your pump is in relief due to too high a visc ..trying to move too high a volume from standing still to whatever rate it wants to pump it, you're going to see an increased differential across the media. It's going to be a combination of no back pressure and reduced volume at an attenuated pressure. If that differential is high enough, the bypass will open.

If your oil pump is not in relief, once the engine is fully enveloped, there's virtually no differential. As the filter loads it will elongate and increase the transitions in terms of duration and amplitude ...but it's not all that big of a deal, imo. Now flat shifting @ 7000 rpm? Starting @ -10 w/15w-40 with some time on the filter
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(or some Euro-Alloy with 135 peak pressure and 15w-50 and a 10 quart sump that never gets warm - sure).
 
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