Molygen is good oil for our cars ?

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Hi guys,I have been reading threads on this forum for a long time.Last night finally I created my account :) I have a lot of questions about Liqui Moly Molygen motor oil because really confused during reading to topics for molygen in this forum :)

I have a Hyundai Accent Blue with 1.4 D-CVVT Kappa engine and use LM Molygen 5W-30.This engine only needs API SL and ILSAC GF-4 or newest oil specification oil and Hyundai recommends Fully Synthetic 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil for longer engine lifetime,lower fuel consuption and emission levels.So thats why I'm using Molygen 5W-30 and I really satisfied this oil.

But I have concerns about the Molygen because synthetic technology is written on the bottle.However, I've also seen bottle with fully synthetic writing.I was wondering if this oil is fully synthetic or semi-synthetic ? Do I need definitely Fully Synthetic oil ? Whats differents by PAO and HC oils and do i need PAO oil ? By the way, I change oil every 15.000 km.

Another question,we have a 2011 Daihatsu Terios with 3SZ-VE engine,this engine definitely needs to 0W-20 or 5W-30 oil,unfortunately bad semi synthetic 10W-40 oil was used in the last maintenance and lifters going to very loud in cold starts.Can I use Molygen 5W-30 ? Does the engine burn oil after 10W-40 ?
 
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In your climate LM Molygen 5W-30 is a great option for both vehicles.
Switching to this oil will likely quiet down the cold start lifter noise in Daihatsu.
Don't think the "bad semi synthetic 10W-40 oil" caused any issues, unless you have reasons to believe that the oil was counterfeit.
I'm personally a fan of 8000km (5000mi) oil change interval. Going longer does tend to have a negative effect in some engines after long-term usage, unless most of your miles are highway driven.
 
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Hi guys,I have been reading threads on this forum for a long time.Last night finally I create my account :) I have a lot of questions for Liqui Moly Molygen motor oil because really confused during reading to topics for molygen in this forum :)

I have a Hyundai Accent Blue with 1.4 D-CVVT Kappa engine and use LM Molygen 5W-30.This engine only needs API SL and ILSAC GF-4 or newest oil specification oil and Hyundai recommends Fully Synthetic 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil for longer engine lifetime,lower fuel consuption and emission levels.So thats why I'm using Molygen 5W-30 and I really satisfied this oil.

But I have concerns about the Molygen because synthetic technology is written on the bottle.However, I've also seen bottle with fully synthetic writing.I was wondering if this oil is fully synthetic or semi-synthetic ? Do I need definitely Fully Synthetic oil ? Whats differents by PAO and HC oils and do i need PAO oil ? By the way, I change oil every 15.000 km.

Another question,we have a 2011 Daihatsu Terios with 3SZ-VE engine,this engine definitely needs to 0W-20 or 5W-30 oil,unfortunately bad semi synthetic 10W-40 oil was used in the last maintenance and lifters going to very loud in cold starts.Can I use Molygen 5W-30 ? Does the engine burn oil after 10W-40 ?

Thank you in advance for your valuable ideas and comments :)
Molygen is fine for your application. Liqui Moly recommends it for a lot of European application (Porsche A40, Mercedes Benz 229.5). If Liqui Moly is marketing this oil as being good enough for a Porsche 911 GT3 or Mercedes Benz AMG it's good enough for your Kappa engine.
 

MolaKule

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..But I have concerns about the Molygen because synthetic technology is written on the bottle.However, I've also seen bottle with fully synthetic writing.I was wondering if this oil is fully synthetic or semi-synthetic ? Do I need definitely Fully Synthetic oil ? Whats differents by PAO and HC oils and do i need PAO oil ? By the way, I change oil every 15.000 km...
I would recommend you do a search on past threads regarding differences of base oils and not turn this into a another PAO vs other base oils.
 
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But I have concerns about the Molygen because synthetic technology is written on the bottle.However, I've also seen bottle with fully synthetic writing.I was wondering if this oil is fully synthetic or semi-synthetic ? Do I need definitely Fully Synthetic oil ? Whats differents by PAO and HC oils and do i need PAO oil ? By the way, I change oil every 15.000 km.
Do you know what PAO is made from?
 

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In your climate LM Molygen 5W-30 is a great option for both vehicles.
Switching to this oil will likely quiet down the cold start lifter noise in Daihatsu.
Don't think the "bad semi synthetic 10W-40 oil" caused any issues, unless you have reasons to believe that the oil was counterfeit.
I'm personally a fan of 8000km (5000mi) oil change interval. Going longer does tend to have a negative effect in some engines after long-term usage, unless most of your miles are highway driven.
I said bad semi synthetic because engine not running healthy with this oil,I hear the lifters squeak :D Probably viskosity too much thick for this engine,In the user manual, it says that no thicker oil than 5w30 should be used.

I prefer 15.000 km after change in my car because drive a lot every day.Maintenance is really expensive in my country,so I have no intention of getting maintenance sooner :) I think the oil I use is good enough along 15.000 km.

Molygen is fine for your application. Liqui Moly recommends it for a lot of European application (Porsche A40, Mercedes Benz 229.5). If Liqui Moly is marketing this oil as being good enough for a Porsche 911 GT3 or Mercedes Benz AMG it's good enough for your Kappa engine.
Thanks a lot. I hope one day I can own one of these cars :)

I would recommend you do a search on past threads regarding differences of base oils and not turn this into a another PAO vs other base oils.

Do you know what PAO is made from?

I don't know enough about this subject,I'm still looking.Thanks.

Liqui Moly's oils are a bit confusing, which is fully synthetic and which is semi-synthetic is not fully understood.
 

MolaKule

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But I have concerns about the Molygen because synthetic technology is written on the bottle.However, I've also seen bottle with fully synthetic writing.I was wondering if this oil is fully synthetic or semi-synthetic ?
Today, most Over The Counter PCMO oils are a mix of various base oils, so I would dispense with the terms semi-synthetic and synthetic. A fully synthetic oil is supposedly majority group IV and Group V base oils, but this is not always the case.

Concentrate on a formulated oil's application, viscosity, and performance, not on its components.

Liqui Moly's oils are a bit confusing, which is fully synthetic and which is semi-synthetic is not fully understood.
And I doubt you will ever receive a non-ambiguous answer from Liqui Moly.

Do I need definitely Fully Synthetic oil ? Whats differents by PAO and HC oils and do i need PAO oil ? By the way, I change oil every 15.000 km.
No you do not. Most Engines were tested at rated HP and fuel economy with conventional oils. Fully synthetic oils are advantageous in temperature extremes.
 
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I have used Molygen oil in my Sportwagen a number of times. It contains a tungsten-based friction modifier. I see no reason you can't use this in your Hyundai and it certainly meets the "fully synthetic" requirement intent. Group 3 hydrocracked vs. Group 4 PAO isn't really an issue or concern w/r to "fully synthetic" in this context. Liquimoly isn't any more confusing on this matter compared to all the other big-name commonly found at Walmart/Autopart store oils that almost everyone here uses that are also all mostly Group 3 blends. Very few full-PAO/ester oils are even commonly/readily available beyond more boutique brands. LM only has a few and you don't see them v. often...they will say "Synthesetechnologie" (synthesis technology) on the German version of the packaging for the Group 3 oils and "Vollsynthetisches" (fully synthetic) for the Group 4 based on the way these oils can be sold there and the wording that has to be used; we have no such rules here thus they don't focus on it. Use your Molygen with confidence! The only confusion with LM could be that the Molygen (at least the European 5W40 version) does not actually have any of the European approvals, it's only "recommended" for which is not the same thing and some BITOGers feel this is a bit disingenuous.

Here is a post here with some info on this topic:


73fagi.jpg
 
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TiGeo

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And I doubt you will ever receive a non-ambiguous answer from Liqui Moly.
It seems pretty straightforward to me. LM only has a few and you don't see them v. often...they will say "Synthesetechnologie" (synthesis technology) on the German version of the packaging for the Group 3 oils and "Vollsynthetisches" (fully synthetic) for the Group 4.

 
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Sportwagen'imde birkaç kez Molygen yağı kullandım. Tungsten bazlı bir sürtünme düzenleyici içerir. Bunu Hyundai'nizde kullanamamanız için hiçbir neden göremiyorum ve kesinlikle "tamamen sentetik" gereksinim amacını karşılıyor. Grup 3 hidro-kırık ve Grup 4 PAO, bu bağlamda "tamamen sentetik" ile gerçekten bir sorun veya endişe değildir. Liquimoly, Walmart/Autopart mağazasında yaygın olarak bulunan ve buradaki hemen hemen herkesin kullandığı ve aynı zamanda çoğunlukla Grup 3 karışımları olan diğer tüm büyük isimlerle karşılaştırıldığında bu konuda daha fazla kafa karıştırıcı değildir. Çok az sayıda tam PAO/ester yağı, daha fazla butik markanın ötesinde yaygın olarak/hazır olarak mevcuttur. LM'de yalnızca birkaç tane var ve onları sık sık görmüyorsunuz... "Synthesetechnologie" diyecekler (sentez teknolojisi), Grup 3 yağları için ambalajın Almanca versiyonu ve Grup 4 için "Vollsynthetisches" (tam sentetik) hakkında, bu yağların orada satılma şekline ve kullanılması gereken ifadeye göre; burada böyle bir kuralımız yok, bu yüzden buna odaklanmıyorlar. Molygen'inizi güvenle kullanın! LM ile ilgili tek kafa karışıklığı, Molygen'in (en azından Avrupa 5W40 versiyonu) aslında Avrupa onaylarından herhangi birine sahip olmaması, yalnızca aynı şey olmadığı için "önerilen" olması ve bazı BITOGers'ın bunun biraz samimiyetsiz olduğunu düşünmesi olabilir.

İşte bu konuyla ilgili bazı bilgiler içeren bir yazı:


View attachment 129614

:D Thanks for answer,Hyundai only wants API SL or higher,so thats why my choice is Molygen.But I think some brands is more clear explanation writing on the bottle.For examle Castrol GTX vs Edge series is clearly who one's Fully Synthetic or not.But now I clearly understand Liqui Moly's classification.I can use Molygen long time this two car,as I say I really really like this oil.But if you have a better advice, I'm open to other suggestions :)
 

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It seems pretty straightforward to me. LM only has a few and you don't see them v. often...they will say "Synthesetechnologie" (synthesis technology) on the German version of the packaging for the Group 3 oils and "Vollsynthetisches" (fully synthetic) for the Group 4.

Yes, that's the type of ambiguity to which I was referring.
 

dnewton3

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Hi guys,I have been reading threads on this forum for a long time ....
Great. If you glean anything from this site, I hope it's the concept that there is no "best" oil, or filter. There are many good ones.

But I have concerns about the Molygen because synthetic technology is written on the bottle.
If you've been reading on our site as much as you claim, you'll already know that marketing terms on a bottle don't mean diddly-squat.

Another question,we have a 2011 Daihatsu Terios with 3SZ-VE engine,this engine definitely needs to 0W-20 or 5W-30 oil,unfortunately bad semi synthetic 10W-40 oil was used in the last maintenance and lifters going to very loud in cold starts.Can I use Molygen 5W-30 ?
Let me see if I have this right:
- you state your engine "needs" a product, presumably to operate well
- somehow a "bad" oil was used (bad because it was thicker, or semi-syn, or both?) and now things are undesirable (noisy)
- you know want to know if using a thinner oil (which you already stated the engine "needs") would be OK?


I am going to generalize:
There is a lot of good info on this site. Unfortunately it's wrapped up inside a much larger hunk of mis-information. It's up to you to decide what is useful or not; that depends upon your ability to discern good advice from garbage based on wishes and emotion. If you've been on this site as much as you claim, you should already be able to tell the difference.
Caveat Emptor.
 

AHU

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Great. If you glean anything from this site, I hope it's the concept that there is no "best" oil, or filter. There are many good ones.


If you've been reading on our site as much as you claim, you'll already know that marketing terms on a bottle don't mean diddly-squat.


Let me see if I have this right:
- you state your engine "needs" a product, presumably to operate well
- somehow a "bad" oil was used (bad because it was thicker, or semi-syn, or both?) and now things are undesirable (noisy)
- you know want to know if using a thinner oil (which you already stated the engine "needs") would be OK?


I am going to generalize:
There is a lot of good info on this site. Unfortunately it's wrapped up inside a much larger hunk of mis-information. It's up to you to decide what is useful or not; that depends upon your ability to discern good advice from garbage based on wishes and emotion. If you've been on this site as much as you claim, you should already be able to tell the difference.
Caveat Emptor.
Let me tell you about why I said “bad oil”,in last maintenance I didn’t went to authorized service,so mechanic puts thicker oil into engine.Normally I always take the oil in the write of user manual,it says 0W-20 or 5W-30 required so I was worried when a thicker oil was put in and there was noise from the lifters.

While I was doing research about oil like this before,I always came across this site,it's a really useful site so that's why I became a register :)

Of course,I'm not saying that I know everything very well or I have read all the content on the website in detail,I'm here to learn what I don't know, so excuse my questions and English please :)


I'd recommend shortening your oil change interval to 10000 km.

You can use whatever 'synthetic' 5w30 oil is in your budget. Don't concern yourself with 'bottle labeling' and 'marketing'.
Thanks for your advice,I do 15.000 km in 6 months,so I keep the oil changes long.Accent Blue has been maintenanced this way for many years,so I don't think it will be a problem.By the way Hyundai’s authorized service maintenance time is every 15,000 km/2 year and still uses semi synthetic Shell Helix HX7 AH 10W-30 oil in my country.While use this oil I hear lifter sound in cold starts,so I change it immediately and met to Molygen.The lifter noise is gone,the engine has much quieter than before and runs much smoother. At the same time, fuel consumption has decreased than 10W-30.

Still,I know it's best to do what you say, but this means having an extra maintenance once a year.
 
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Let me tell you about why I said “bad oil”,in last maintenance I didn’t went to authorized service,so mechanic puts thicker oil into engine.Normally I always take the oil in the write of user manual,it says 0W-20 or 5W-30 required so I was worried when a thicker oil was put in and there was noise from the lifters.

While I was doing research about oil like this before,I always came across this site,it's a really useful site so that's why I became a register :)

Of course,I'm not saying that I know everything very well or I have read all the content on the website in detail,I'm here to learn what I don't know, so excuse my questions and English please :)



Thanks for your advice,I do 15.000 km in 6 months,so I keep the oil changes long.Accent Blue has been maintenanced this way for many years,so I don't think it will be a problem.By the way Hyundai’s authorized service maintenance time is every 15,000 km/2 year and still uses semi synthetic Shell Helix HX7 AH 10W-30 oil in my country.While use this oil I hear lifter sound in cold starts,so I change it immediately and met to Molygen.The lifter noise is gone,the engine has much quieter than before and runs much smoother. At the same time, fuel consumption has decreased than 10W-30.

Still,I know it's best to do what you say, but this means having an extra maintenance once a year.
Wait, you had the problem with the same grade of oil? And a different brand gave you a noticeable fuel economy increase at the same grade?

No on both of those if that’s what you are saying. Whatever the case there is no “worry” over using one higher grade. It’s not the cause of a problem.
 

AHU

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Wait, you had the problem with the same grade of oil? And a different brand gave you a noticeable fuel economy increase at the same grade?

No on both of those if that’s what you are saying. Whatever the case there is no “worry” over using one higher grade. It’s not the cause of a problem.
I can't say that I know exactly why,maybe due to maintenance consumption has a little decreased,maybe i'm wrong. But I sure that there is absolutely didn't hear lifter sound with 5W-30 oil.
 
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