Moly Grease not very sticky/greasy. Problem?

[nobb]

So this is my first real experience with moly based lithium grease (I've usually just used standard lithium grease). I figure that since these moly greases are advertised as great for high pressure applications that it should be a no brainer to pick moly based lithium greases over standard lithium. I picked up a tube of Valvoline Moly EP grease with the intention of using it on my driveshaft u-joints, sliding yoke, and etc.

Recently, I picked up a set of OEM Toyota lower ball joints to replace on my 4Runner. These 4Runners have a dangerous safety problem in that the lower ball joints are non-fail safe, so I figure just for added protection, I'd replace the grease in the ball joint with this high pressure Moly based grease. So I wiped off all the stock white sticky grease and proceeded to re-grease the joint with Moly EP.

INTERESTING NOTE: After I greased my ball joint, I noticed that as I flexed the joint, the moly EP grease did NOT seem to stick to the metal ball in the joint very well! I should have taken pictures to help with the explaining, but basically, the stock white Toyota grease was pretty sticky, and as such, it seemed to coat the metal ball in the joint much better (not perfectly, but better). In comparison, the moly grease seemed to just get displaced/wiped off from the ball surface as it rotated.

Now I am no lube expert, but my intuition tells me this is not a good characteristic to have. I would want the grease coating the metal contact area (in this case, the ball in the ball joint). I could see this as not being a problem with rotating bearings, where the rotation action would re-replenish and force grease back into contact areas. In other joints like u-joints, ball joints, sliding yokes, there is no "replenishing" action and the grease just gets dispersed.

Anyone have thoughts on this? Are all moly based greases like this, or am I overthinking?

 

[NHGUY]

I would use Moly for a high speed item,like a U joint(Toyota even used to recommend that for its high RPM 4x4s).Not a slow mover like ball joint/Tie rod.Chrysler Multi Mileage long fiber Calcium sulfonate grease is for chassis parts and has been around since the 1960s...thats what I use.

 

[shell_user]

No offense but what made you think you should clean out the TOYO white, sticky grease?! I would have left that grease in there unless otherwise directed to do otherwise.

just my opinion and 2cents,

adam

 

[Quest]

not sure if what you mean by OE Toy ball joints are, in fact, even greasable to begin with.

If they are the non-greasable type and you grease it by some means (lemme guess, a grease needle?!) you are doing yourself 2 things: (1) you punctured the rubber boot which will lead to introduction of moisture and dirt; (2) you have introduced foreign (possible non-compatible) grease type into the already sealed-in grease, which may lead to all kinds of trouble down the road (such as grease separation inside the ball joint, etc.)

If you are using "greasable" type of ball joints and they are new, then yeah, do it at your heart's content.

Q.

 

[Johnny248]

I've had great luck with Moly fortified grease. It isn't moly based. Everything I've used has been calcium sulfonate based grease with moly added. I did the same with my ball joints. I removed the boots, cleaned them out as best I could and then filled them up with the calcium based moly fortified grease and reassembled the boots on the ball joints. I've never had a problem with them. I doubt that the OP will either, as long as there is a good supply of grease in the boots to keep working around. Again, just my experience. Not a grease scientist.

 

[nobb]

To answer some questions, yes, the OE ball joints are not greasable. However, the boot can be removed and then manually re-greased. The reason why I am doing this is just because I like to know what type of grease is in there, and I wanted to "upgrade" to a better grease.

My concern was just over the fact that moly grease does not seem as clingy to the metal as the typical lithium grease so I am wondering if this is still the right application.

 

[Tempest]

Just because it has moly in it, doesn't mean it's necessary better. I'm with other people, unless there was a problem, I would have left it alone. If the original grease was still white, then that is a good indicator that it was still in good shape and contaminant free.

You didn't say exactly what grease you used?

 

[nobb]

This was my experience with Valvoline Moly EP.

As an update I sourced a tube of Motomaster Extreme Pressure grease that also has moly in it and it seems to have much better "stickyness" in that it behaves more like a grease than a paste.

 

[Gotch]

Originally Posted By: nobb
To answer some questions, yes, the OE ball joints are not greasable. However, the boot can be removed and then manually re-greased. The reason why I am doing this is just because I like to know what type of grease is in there, and I wanted to "upgrade" to a better grease.


...what makes you think you "upgraded" to a better grease. Those ball joints are likely junk now unless you completely removed ALL of the original grease.

 

[Gotch]

...but to your original question, Valvoline Moly EP is a "wheel bearing" type grease. These are less tacky than chassis grease to reduction frictional heat build up in a high speed application.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: Gotch
...but to your original question, Valvoline Moly EP is a "wheel bearing" type grease. These are less tacky than chassis grease to reduction frictional heat build up in a high speed application.


Which Valvolene Moly EP grease are we talking about here? All the ones I see state "provide excellent extreme pressure and antiwear protection for wheel bearings, chassis, suspension systems, steering linkage and universal joints."