is it really worth it to use a moly add rather than just a good oil? do they really do anything? any down sides to a moly additive like sludging or increased wear?
moly additives: worth it or not??
- Thread starter electrolover
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Knock yourself out
http://www.google.com/cse?cx=018299964780983177537%3Azbftwoey7lw&ie=UTF-8&q=moly+additives
http://www.google.com/cse?cx=018299964780983177537%3Azbftwoey7lw&ie=UTF-8&q=moly+additives
when i read the old posts i just kinda glaze over
they really get into it, talking about soluble and in soluble , ppm and alot of other in depth stuff. just figured i would cut to the chase and ask if its something i need to buy or not.
they really get into it, talking about soluble and in soluble , ppm and alot of other in depth stuff. just figured i would cut to the chase and ask if its something i need to buy or not.
Originally Posted By: jstutz
i believe moly in excess is harmful. I dont know the levels but i read a post on here talking about. Maybe look through some older posts as i know it has been discussed before.
This is true, of moly, and just about anything else for that matter. If Lubro Moly is used as directed it is not going to harm an engine. Having said that, for those who'd like to try the addition of moly a good idea might be to use a full bottle of the MoS2 as an initial treatment. Then after that add one ounce per qt of oil at each OCI following the initial treatment.
I've had some impressive results with it in an old mower which would smoke on start up. IIRC it is now going on three years with the addition of Lubro Moly to the oil, and the smoke on start up [last two seasons] has been completely elimintated w/o going to a "thicker" oil. YMMV
i believe moly in excess is harmful. I dont know the levels but i read a post on here talking about. Maybe look through some older posts as i know it has been discussed before.
This is true, of moly, and just about anything else for that matter. If Lubro Moly is used as directed it is not going to harm an engine. Having said that, for those who'd like to try the addition of moly a good idea might be to use a full bottle of the MoS2 as an initial treatment. Then after that add one ounce per qt of oil at each OCI following the initial treatment.
I've had some impressive results with it in an old mower which would smoke on start up. IIRC it is now going on three years with the addition of Lubro Moly to the oil, and the smoke on start up [last two seasons] has been completely elimintated w/o going to a "thicker" oil. YMMV
Is it worth it? well in a Moly deprived oil IMO yea,,Molybdenum is an excellent anti-wear/friction additive so in theory to help in added wear prevention yea it's a good thing to do.
i run it in two of my cars right now,it sure seems to help with cold morning start ups.
search and read and come to your own conclusion...
i run it in two of my cars right now,it sure seems to help with cold morning start ups.
search and read and come to your own conclusion...
The Moly in oil is usually enough, I have seen bad used oil analysis with lots of moly, and excellent ones without it. I would not waste my money. Just save it for top quality oil.
Oils like Red Line, Schaeffer's, and old Havoline are loaded with it. A lot of the major brands have some in it. All of the above are soluble moly.
Most of the moly additives are non-soluble moly.
Most of the moly additives are non-soluble moly.
JHZR2
Staff member
There are great used oil analysis in both high and low moly oils. Like any add, it may be possible to optimize slightly the oil for certain situations/issues/operating characteristics.
The other problem with metallic adds, IMO, is that overloading behind what is the stabilized, balanced package could either cause some dropout or just excess amounts. I do not know what highly oxidized (combusted) Mo forms/does, but I am slightly fearful. That said, the application may have some benefit, but I prefer to dose sparingly.
The other problem with metallic adds, IMO, is that overloading behind what is the stabilized, balanced package could either cause some dropout or just excess amounts. I do not know what highly oxidized (combusted) Mo forms/does, but I am slightly fearful. That said, the application may have some benefit, but I prefer to dose sparingly.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Oils like Red Line, Schaeffer's, and old Havoline are loaded with it. A lot of the major brands have some in it. All of the above are soluble moly.
Most of the moly additives are non-soluble moly.
That's my whole thing about it, would much rather buy an oil that already has Moly.
Oils like Red Line, Schaeffer's, and old Havoline are loaded with it. A lot of the major brands have some in it. All of the above are soluble moly.
Most of the moly additives are non-soluble moly.
That's my whole thing about it, would much rather buy an oil that already has Moly.
Plenty of moly in just plain old, inexpensive Formula Shell or Havoline DS(Chevron). Why do the mid line oils substitute Boron?
Lubegard Bio Tech Engine Protectant contains soluble moly, for anyone who might be interested.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Plenty of moly in just plain old, inexpensive Formula Shell or Havoline DS(Chevron). Why do the mid line oils substitute Boron?
i know, it seems all the non popular conventional oils have it. but for some reason Quaker State, Pennzoil Conventional, Valvoline conventional and Castrol GTX do not. heck superflo has as much moly as PU!! makes me wonder....
Plenty of moly in just plain old, inexpensive Formula Shell or Havoline DS(Chevron). Why do the mid line oils substitute Boron?
i know, it seems all the non popular conventional oils have it. but for some reason Quaker State, Pennzoil Conventional, Valvoline conventional and Castrol GTX do not. heck superflo has as much moly as PU!! makes me wonder....
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Lubegard Bio Tech Engine Protectant contains soluble moly, for anyone who might be interested.
I have a few bottles and was wondering how much moly is in this product? I currently use Lubromoly Mos2 and would you use an ounce of Bio tech per quart of oil, like I currently do with the Mos2?
Lubegard Bio Tech Engine Protectant contains soluble moly, for anyone who might be interested.
I have a few bottles and was wondering how much moly is in this product? I currently use Lubromoly Mos2 and would you use an ounce of Bio tech per quart of oil, like I currently do with the Mos2?
JHZR2
Staff member
I believe Schaeffers 132 has moly and antimony as well as a good syn base.
Where does one find the lubeguard stuff?
Where does one find the lubeguard stuff?
Amazon.com has the LG Biotech Engine Protectant, or you can buy it directly from Lubegard in qts which seems to be the best way to get it. Some parts stores carry it, but the only place I've seen it in qts is direct from the mfg.
Schaeffers #132 contains little or no moly at all IIRC, but has antimony which makes it worth while.
Schaeffers #132 contains little or no moly at all IIRC, but has antimony which makes it worth while.
it cost me around 50 bucks for a syn oil change for my truck.
jug pu 28
2 qts at 14
mc 820s 4
would it really be worth the extra money spent on additives?
jug pu 28
2 qts at 14
mc 820s 4
would it really be worth the extra money spent on additives?
Originally Posted By: electrolover
it cost me around 50 bucks for a syn oil change for my truck.
jug pu 28
2 qts at 14
mc 820s 4
would it really be worth the extra money spent on additives?
If you feel that you've bought the best oil you can buy, and the oil company has spared no expense making it the best, because the customer comes first, not profits, or shareholders, then additives aren't worth it. Or if you feel your engine needs no cleaning and no need for additional moly, etc, then once again the additives aren't worth it. OTOH if you feel the oil can be made better with an additive, or needs some help with cleaning then the additives have value, to you.
It all depends, and opens the door to some good debates, and heated arguments. This horse has been beaten to death more times than I can count. In the end, whatever floats your boat I guess.
it cost me around 50 bucks for a syn oil change for my truck.
jug pu 28
2 qts at 14
mc 820s 4
would it really be worth the extra money spent on additives?
If you feel that you've bought the best oil you can buy, and the oil company has spared no expense making it the best, because the customer comes first, not profits, or shareholders, then additives aren't worth it. Or if you feel your engine needs no cleaning and no need for additional moly, etc, then once again the additives aren't worth it. OTOH if you feel the oil can be made better with an additive, or needs some help with cleaning then the additives have value, to you.
It all depends, and opens the door to some good debates, and heated arguments. This horse has been beaten to death more times than I can count. In the end, whatever floats your boat I guess.
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