mobil1 0w40 on older engines

[miata_pi]

Hello to Everyone,

I would like to gather the collective wisdom of everyone on using 0w40 on a 96 Mazda Miata with 20,000 miles that operates under stop and go conditions with temperature ranging from
75 deg F to 98 deg F(in the tropics) and >85% humidity year round.

This product is being actively pushed in the market and I was wary because I know it is factory fill for the New and Expensive European cars. Is there any great advantage in this viscosity for the tropics? Have there been anecdotal evidence that it actually causes moe problems than benefits?

The owners manual specifically recommends a 10W30 for the tropics--and so does the Mobil USA website.

Is it worth the hype? Or should I stick to the old reliable 10W30?

Thanks in advance

 

[moribundman]

I put M1 0W-40 in my '96 2.8 V6 12 valve Audi engine and the valve clatter at hot idle drove me nuts. Oil consumption with M1 0W-40 was about 0.3 qts per 1k miles higher than with Castrol 5W-50. Personally, I'd reserve any 0W-40 for late design engines and would go with a 5/10/15W-30/40 in any older engine. Considering your climate, I see no need for a 0W-x oil.

 

[drums57]

HEY MORI , good advice in his climate 10w30 all year long is perfect, boy i'am glad this was not about ROLEX WATCHES

 

[Steelhead]

 

[GeaugaFletcher]

I used Mobil 1 0w-40 in my '97 Miata hoping to help two problems:

Oil pressure on startup - looking for a quicker rise to operating pressure

Viscosity at operating temperature - looking to quiet the famous Mazda 1.8 liter lifter tick, as well as the vague (for me) reassurance that higher viscosity provides, especially when flogging the car

I didn't get a UOA on that oil, but it seemed to do those things I was looking for. The car did burn more oil than usual. My next change was T&SUV 5w-40 for 5,000 miles which returned a very good UOA except for a higher iron wear number - higher than the average as well as higher than other Miata UOAs I found. NAPA had a sale on SL Mobil 1, so I plan to use a 50/50 mix of 0w-40 and 10w-30 for my next oil change.

 

[bar1]

No need for a 0W-40 with that climate. Stick with your current oil. I used Mobil1 0W-40 in my old '96 Audi S6 2.2 TQ Avant (in it now: Castrol SLX 0W-30), but that's because of the freezing temperatures here

 

[williar]

People, don't get hung up on the "0" rating of the M1 0w40. It means little except at very cold temperatures. The important thing is the HT/HS and to remember that M1 0w40 is on the low end of the 40 wt scale. Think of it as a heavy 30w (used) or a light 40w (new), as it does sheer some with age.

It's an all-around excellent oil where a 30w/40w is desired.

If the M1 10w30 is doing the job, then stick with it. If you want something slightly heavier then go with the M1 0w40.

 

[JHZR2]

M1 10w-30 would be a great choice... Granted, in some climates (my GF is from St. Thomas USVI, and I can say from experience that many 30 wt oils dont stand up in typical engines down there) a heavier, more shear stable oil is preferred, but Im not convinced that the 0w-40 M1 is the one for that...

Ive had mixed experience with M1 0w-40. In my 91 BMW, I used it after having run M1 15w-50 in it for a long time. I wasnt impressed, and UOA wasnt great. In my brother's mitsubishi 300GT VR-4, it does excellently, despite twin turbos and a much more power dense package.

Id say to stick with what youve been using if it is working well... I know you might be set on synthetic, but if you want to move heavier, a diesel spec oil like chevron delo 15w-40 might be your best alternate!

JMH

 

[hominid7]

Your car is 10 years old with only 20,000 miles on it. If that is the rate at which it will continue to get mailes put on it i would stick with dino 10w-30 and change the oil twice a year, regardless of mileage, unless of course the rate at which you are putting miles on it goes up dramatically.

I would not leave any oil in a car for more than 6 months. Moisture and gas dont make for good lubrication

In my experience, the Japanese made Mazda engines are very reliable and long lasting.

 

[hominid7]

quote:

---

Originally posted by hominid7:
Your car is 10 years old with only 20,000 miles on it. If that is the rate at which it will continue to get mailes put on it i would stick with dino 10w-30 and change the oil twice a year, regardless of mileage, unless of course the rate at which you are putting miles on it goes up dramatically. You can also use 5w-30 if you have problems with lifter noise or you regularly go several days without starting the car.

I would not leave any oil in a car for more than 6 months. Moisture and gas dont make for good lubrication

In my experience, the Japanese made Mazda engines are very reliable and long lasting.

---

 

[vwoom]

miata_pi, are you in Manila? Is there a 10w30 synthetic HDEO available?

Personally, I'd run a little thicker oil due to the above average idling time in traffic, so-so quality of fuel and high humidity/hot clime..My old man had a restored '65 MGB and we always feed it with Caltex Delo..

I stayed in Makati(near The Fort) and Paranaque cities two months ago...rainy, very humid and traffic at EDSA is

 

[miata_pi]

thanks for the valuable inputs, guys! vwoom, yes i am in makati.. jury still out on using thicker oils since even in traffic with a great cooling system the car maintains a 180 F temperature anyway and does not overheat, since the 10w30 is rated fine till 100 deg F, i guess im okay with it.

 

[vwoom]

quote:

---

Originally posted by miata_pi:
thanks for the valuable inputs, guys! vwoom, yes i am in makati.. jury still out on using thicker oils since even in traffic with a great cooling system the car maintains a 180 F temperature anyway and does not overheat, since the 10w30 is rated fine till 100 deg F, i guess im okay with it.

---

It's not just the overheat thing I'm trying to imply at, miata.

Excessive idling esp waiting in bumper-to-bumper Manila traffic would lead to fuel dilution in motor oil. Fuel dilution thins oil. It lowers it's lubricating abilities and would cause a drop in your oil pressure, thus higher engine wear..made worse by using the less than desirable quality(i.e. high sulphur, presence of moisture/H20 in gas station underground tanks..due to flooding

) of fuels there available to the motoring public.

Having a tad thicker syn oil would give you a that extra buffer aka added protection to your engine.

Otherwise, I'd suggest a 10w30 HDEO syn oil should you not elect to use anything thicker..also, the potent add pack of an hdeo motor oil would give you a clean engine..

p.s. I feel bad for all the motorist there stuck in horrendous daily traffic..fuel dilution in their motor oil must be close to pandemic levels.

Btw,

Kababayan!

[ October 25, 2005, 11:25 PM: Message edited by: vwoom ]