Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40, 8k miles, 07 gas 6.2

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Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40, 8k miles, 07 gas 6.2

I do extended oil changes and used oil analysis is so WE HERE ON THIS FORUM might learn something, and I find it interesting.

I'm also trying to figure out how long I can/should go between oil & filter changes with our now 147k mile new to us 2007 Yukon Denali w/all aluminum 6.2L . The main tool I use to determine OCI are UOA reports.

I've been doing UOA for 10 yrs on various vehicles. I mainly use Oil Analyzers Inc, but I have used Blackstone and JB Services too. Here's a link to one of our vehicles that I've had for 10+ yrs and have done 10 UOA :


We bought this old Yukon Oct. 2018 w/130k miles off a used car lot without any mx history. I figured out real quick that it burned and leaked a lot of oil. But, it had good oil pressure and drove like a dream. I am a DIYer. I fixed the leaks by changing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I cured the oil burning by installing the new improved driver side valve cover and performing TSB 10-06-01-008M. There is a lot of gunk/crud built up inside the engine from its prior life. When I had things apart I cleaned everything as best I could.

I always cut open the old oil filters to see what's what. Each time I find black carbon/gunk/crud at the bottom of the pleats. I've asked myself "are my oil change intervals are causing this stuff??, or is the Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 actually slowly cleaning up the carbon/gunk/crud that's stuck on the guts of the engine from it's prior life?" I think I have my answer. The oil is cleaning things up a little. I came to this conclusion by taking off the new improved driver side valve cover for inspection that I put on when I fixed everything 16,000 miles ago and started using this oil. The valve cover is as clean new inside and out.

I installed a catch can in the PVC system, and installed a remote engine oil bypass filtration system that utilizies a remote Amsoil EaBP90 spin-on filter. Now the sump capacity is 6+ qts. Before I fixed everything, the catch can was catching about 1oz of oil every 100 miles. Now it catches 1 oz every 6000 miles. The engine now uses 2 qt of oil between changes(no make-up oil).

Here are the first two UOA results from Oil Analyzers Inc(OAI-Polaris Labs). The oil in both reports is Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5-40w. This oil is dual rated for both spark(gasoline) and compression(diesel).


We use this vehicle mostly for hwy driving(70%). It sees the hot TX 100 degree summers and the cold CO -20 degree mtn winters. The oil filter for the first run was NAPA 47060 Platinum, and the 2nd a Fram XG10575. I don't change the oil and filter when I take a sample. I wait to see the results, then I make that decision. I did immediately change it when I read the first report, but went another 1800 miles after the second report, then changed to Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-30.

OIL-Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40
no make-up oil
Code:
MILES IN USE 8.1k 6.2k 

MILES 140.7k 147.0k 

SAMPLE TAKEN 3/24/19 7/24/19

Wear Metals (ppm)

ALUMINUM 6 4 

CHROMIUM 1 1 

IRON 39 40 

COPPER 10 8 

LEAD 9 5 

TIN 0 0

NICKEL 0 1

SILVER 0 0

Contaminant Metals (ppm) 

SILICON 31 18

Sodium 31 16

Potassium 3 0

Multi-Source Metals (ppm)

MOLYBDENUM 51 50 

TITANIUM 1 0 

BORON 37 53

Additive Metals (ppm) 

CALCIUM 1311 1103 

MAGNESIUM 835 849 

PHOSPHORUS 980 946 

ZINC 1212 1217 

BARIUM 0 0

No Contaminants-water, soot, fuel

Fluid Properties

Viscosity 100C 13.4 13.9 

TBN 2.58 4.49

Oxidation 41 42

Nitration 14 13


The Labs comments for the first report are:
LUBRICANT CHANGE is suggested. OXIDATION is at a SEVERE level. OCI may be over extended or unit may be running too hot. Base # is MODERATELY LOW. Silicon is at a MODERATE LEVEL. Please submit a new virgin sample of this oil for our BASELINE REFERENCE.

The Labs comments for the second report are:
Please submit a new virgin sample of this oil for our BASELINE REFERENCE. Oxidation is flagged, however we cannot determine the severity of this oxidation value. When using synthetic oil starting oxidation values are typically higher. Continue to monitor other fluid properties for trends of oil degradation.


We Love This Yukon
 
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After I received the 2nd report I called them. They said they didn't have enough data yet to accurately comment on the oxidation value.

I'm not worried because the viscosity is normal and hasn't thickened.

I sent them(OAI) a virgin sample for their analysis. I'm waiting for the results.

I took a sample of the second load when I changed it at 8k miles and plan to send it to Blackstone to see what they have to say.
 
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" I cured the oil burning by installing the new improved driver side valve cover and performing TSB 10-06-01-008M."

You replaced pistons and rings?
 
No, I freed up the piston rings by doing the solvent procedure.

I'm keeping them freed up by installing the valve cover and shield.
 
Here's how grubby it was when I did the work a yr agp
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]
 
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Originally Posted by jetman
No, I freed up the piston rings by doing the solvent procedure.

I'm keeping them freed up by installing the valve cover and shield.

Did you use the Delco cleaner or something else like a Berrymans.. just curious. Fwiw, last I recall the Delco top engine cleaner was mfg by Chevron. That Delco stuff is pricey...
 
Originally Posted by jetman
Here's how grubby it was when I did the work a yr agp
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Is that a spark plug under all that?...‚.. yikes!
 
No, I did it differently than how the TSB says to do it. I sometimes think I know a better way
smile.gif
and this time it worked out.

And yes that is a spark plug, no codes, no misfires, was running fine, unbelievable right? I cleaned them in my media blast cabinet, and they're still in the engine and firing fine.

I took all the sparkies out, squirted Motor Medic in the plug holes, let it soak in the combustion chambers for hrs, put a socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, then wiggled it back and forth, then repeat. I did this several times over a whole weekend.

Before putting the sparkies back in, I spun the engine over a lot with the starter to get it all the Motor Medic out of the combustion chambers.

You won't catch me adding any sort of product(snake oil) to my crankcase and/or engine oil to break the gunk loose for fear of clogging up an oil passage or something.

[Linked Image]
 
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1) Hat's off for taking this on - great engine that got abused by previous owner
2) Hat's off for such a clean shop - Wow
3) You have picked a motor oil with a pedigree - several OEM approvals and made for extended use -
but since it's still cleaning have you considered just a 5k run on the $12/gallon Delvac 1300 for next summer.
Mobil is using the GII+ EHC base stock in that now (plant upgrades a couple years back) and it has around a 10 Noack.
4) Reckon that aluminum block has iron sleeves and since you have soaked on the pistons no shock over a bit of iron
(SB GM's go 400k while giving up a bit of iron)

Anyway - nice work !
 
Originally Posted by jetman
No, I did it differently than how the TSB says to do it. I sometimes think I know a better way
smile.gif
and this time it worked out.

And yes that is a spark plug, no codes, no misfires, was running fine, unbelievable right? I cleaned them in my media blast cabinet, and they're still in the engine and firing fine.

I took all the sparkies out, squirted Motor Medic in the plug holes, let it soak in the combustion chambers for hrs, put a socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, then wiggled it back and forth, then repeat. I did this several times over a whole weekend.

Before putting the sparkies back in, I spun the engine over a lot with the starter to get it all the Motor Medic out of the combustion chambers.

You won't catch me adding any sort of product(snake oil) to my crankcase and/or engine oil to break the gunk loose for fear of clogging up an oil passage or something.

[Linked Image]


I've used motor medic in the past and have recommended it. That stuff works great... never used it as a piston soak though but I suppose it'd work just fine for that as well given it's stout solvent pkg. Gotta keep that one in mind...ðŸ‘

And yeah, amazing those plugs were working. Looks like additive overuse to me. Slow and steady.. that Delvac will clean things.👠Shame how some people abuse their rigs... should be laws against that!...
 
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I like Mobil Delvac Super 1300 15-40w. My Prevost motorhome engine, a Detroit Sixty series 12.7L has 10 gals in it now, and I have 10 more gals sitting on the shelf for its next change.

In 2018 Mobil had a mail in rebate program that I took advantage of BIG TIME! I also get a NAPA discount too. I stocked up on oil and received a check from Mobil for $242. The Mobil Delvac 1300 Super cost me less than $5/ga. lThe Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 ended up costing me less than $10/gal.

Mobil has another mail-in rebate program going on now(2019). I have stocked up on Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-30 this time. It's costing me less than $10/gal again when combined with a 20% off email/coupon I utilized from O'reillys.
smile.gif


I main reason I run synthetic motor oil in the Yukon is because of the extreme cold it see's in Colorado. Plus I believe it is better oil.
 
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Originally Posted by jetman

I main reason I run synthetic motor oil in the Yukon is because of the extreme cold it see's in Colorado. Plus I believe it is better oil.

Got no arguments outta me...that Yukon could use a little TLC. And great score on the lube btw..ðŸ‘.. anytime you can get a gallon of quality lube for <$10 is a "win" in my book...$5 is even better, that's practically giving it away!
 
When I change the oil at 8k miles, the Info Center says "30% remaining", and I think there is 0% remaining. If the previous owners took it all the way down to 0% and used less than premium oil?

I think this may be what happened?
 
That's not a deal but a steal on the Delvac - Previously used the Delvac 1 in my older 5.3L ... in nothing but 3 gasoline power gens now.
Still do use Delvac 1 gear oil in G80's and it's hard to beat for the price.

Starting with that abused motor is almost like a rescue dog story - "good on ya mate"
 
The other vc was taken off and cleaned a yr ago wken I replaced the other, so I'm certain it looks as good as new too. Why wouldn't it?

I'm an Amsoil 10+ yr preferred customer and use a lot of their products in my vehicles. I've gone as much as 19k miles between oil changes with their Signature SSO 5w-30 oil in my FJ Cruiser. But man the stuff is pricey. I'm convinced it top self stuff, but I like to experiment and see what's what.
 
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