No, the AFE 0W30 is a 30 Grade oil and is supposed have a 100C viscosity of 11.5 cSttypo/brainfart probably meant 0w20
kind of odd our forum doesnt have a preview for pdf but makes you download it.
typo/brainfart probably meant 0w20
I think what Rand meant was Blackstone typo'd the comment in the report. They meant to sayNo, the AFE 0W30 is a 30 Grade oil and is supposed have a 100C viscosity of 11.5 cSt
I’ve wondered if M1 0w30 was a poor oil and it’s practice to just be a 20wt oil is not a good decisionI think what Rand meant was Blackstone typo'd the comment in the report. They meant to say
"...The viscosity was closer to the expected range for 0W/20..." which would make more sense considering the grade of the oil being obviously lower than Blackstone's own "Should Be" values for 0W/30.
Everything I've read shows it to be a high quality oil that tends to shear down a grade during use. It might make more sense to use it in a vehicle that calls for 0W/20. I could see it yielding better wear levels and finishing up at a solid 20 grade whereas if you started with a 0W/20, it might be finishing up closer to 6 cSt.I’ve wondered if M1 0w30 was a poor oil and it’s practice to just be a 20wt oil is not a good decision
I was saying blackstone had the typo/brainfart. Sorry I wasnt clear.No, the AFE 0W30 is a 30 Grade oil and is supposed have a 100C viscosity of 11.5 cSt
It is. That KV100 is really low.Well, good thing I switched to ESP then!
My only concern with that oil is that for my climate an 0w30 is preferable for the winter, as its often below zero for a week or more during the winter, with some days getting down to -30F to -40F, and this oil in it now will be in during the winter.It is. That KV100 is really low.
You have Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 in Wal Mart for $22 for 5qt.
There’s no way to determine whether the viscosity deviation is due to mechanical shear or fuel dilution from this UOA. Given the history I’m going to guess fuel dilution on this one.Everything I've read shows it to be a high quality oil that tends to shear down a grade during use. It might make more sense to use it in a vehicle that calls for 0W/20. I could see it yielding better wear levels and finishing up at a solid 20 grade whereas if you started with a 0W/20, it might be finishing up closer to 6 cSt.
Oh yeah, I would go 0W30 though technically 5W30 would cut it.My only concern with that oil is that for my climate an 0w30 is preferable for the winter, as its often below zero for a week or more during the winter, with some days getting down to -30F to -40F, and this oil in it now will be in during the winter.
My only concern with that oil is that for my climate an 0w30 is preferable for the winter, as its often below zero for a week or more during the winter, with some days getting down to -30F to -40F, and this oil in it now will be in during the winter.
"...The viscosity was closer to the expected range for 0W/30..."
Huh?
Gary Allen used to claim that M1 0W-40 was designed to shear down to a 30-weight in use; so it was really a 0W-30 in practice.I've never used AFE 0w30 for this reason. Not shear stable. Likely uses a high quality VM that is clean, but it doesn't maintain its viscosity well. One could argue that is where they get their 2% fuel savings from. It's basically a 0w20 oil in use.
Yes, that was one of the reasons, along with the high HTHS and sticking with the factory recommended grade of 0W30. Anything else I can do to prevent LSPI?You decided to go Mobil1 ESP 0W30. I would stick to that now that I think about it. Reason is MB229.52 approval. That approval has LSPI test requirement and 1.3T engine checks all boxes to have LSPI event.