Mobil 1 5w/30, 5000 miles, Chrysler 300M

[Gary Allan]

I have a hard time seeing a 30 weight as low viscosity. If I had seen 10-12 ppm where none was noted before I would probably recommend someone going up a grade to show if there was any change.

City driving ..idling ..all mostly low load conditions. Now if his wife is actually hammering the pedal and driving as fast as she can in the space allotted, and is some in the closet Fast & Furious type, then I can maybe see it making a problem condition worse.

This is not to say that a heavier oil will not reduce the severity of this event. It's stating that there's no NORMAL reason why this isn't a typically boring UOA with M1 5w-30 under any sensible stop and go/city/urban/taxi like service.

 

[HighViscosity]

I don't think 30 wt is low, but I wonder if a thicker oil might help in this situation. I'm not blaming the motor oil for these numbers, but based on the premise that a journal might be out of spec, or wear at another part has increased tolerances to dangerous levels, a stouter oil may buy him quite a bit of time. This was just the first thing that popped in my mind based on available data.

To the original poster, have you ever had the throttle body cleaned? When the car is warm, in gear, and the A/C is on, does the car shake more than it used to, or seem to idle too low? Assuming the car has had regular oil changes in the past, this is the only cause I can think of, along with the more likely possibility that it's due to a manufacturing defect. These defects tend to be metalurgical in nature, as many parts are optically inspected with computers.

Can you tell us anything else about that higher rpm vibration, like when it started, is it worse cold or hot, has it been progressive, what rpm's is it noticeable, does it happen in other gears at that rpm? The more clues you can give us the better chance we have of diagnosing it remotely.

 

[kender]

The moly #'s are off too. Every other M1 UOA I have seen show moly to be in the 80PPM range.

 

[Geonerd]

Originally Posted By: 2k05gt

She does drive like a bat out of heck, she likes to get up to the speed limit as fast as possable, LOL


Does she hammer on the car straight out of the driveway? Loading or wildly revving a stone cold engine is not a kind thing to do.

 

[2k05gt]

Originally Posted By: HighViscosity

To the original poster, have you ever had the throttle body cleaned? When the car is warm, in gear, and the A/C is on, does the car shake more than it used to, or seem to idle too low? Assuming the car has had regular oil changes in the past, this is the only cause I can think of, along with the more likely possibility that it's due to a manufacturing defect. These defects tend to be metalurgical in nature, as many parts are optically inspected with computers.

Can you tell us anything else about that higher rpm vibration, like when it started, is it worse cold or hot, has it been progressive, what rpm's is it noticeable, does it happen in other gears at that rpm? The more clues you can give us the better chance we have of diagnosing it remotely.


Last Month I used Throttle body cleaner to try to see what the vibration was, I cleaned the heck out of it, it was oily, I also cleaned the spark plugs with the cleaner and some brake clean as well, I ran out of the throttle body cleaner. the vibration is most noticable at 3K and warm. I would say always in heavy load situations like going up a hill, BTW that is when the Cam Position sensor went, she was going up a hill and the engine just shuttered and quit.

She was never regular about changing the oil, I started doing it in the past 2 years, before that she would ignore the change oil message for a few months until she could stop in a jiffy jube to get it done. What got me doing it for her was when I asked her when the message come one and she said june..... and it was october. now I monitor it closer ans I change it when I do my car and truck, I have oil changing weekends, lots of fun, my son comes over to get his done and it's a blast.... not..

Oh Crabby Paddies, I just remembered.. I put 6-8 oz of marvels mystery oil in the crank case that day, could that have any effect? I totally forgot about that.

Originally Posted By: Geonerd

Does she hammer on the car straight out of the driveway? Loading or wildly revving a stone cold engine is not a kind thing to do.


She never lets it warm up, she just goes.. Always in a hurry like most working moms.

The more I think about this UOA I should not have tested it with all that went wrong with the car last month, I thought I would kill two birds with one stone and do my car and hers. Big Mistake

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: Troy_Built
Do you want your wife driving a car with a dying engine????


...in Washington DC...?

 

[2k05gt]

Actually we live in Northern Virginia, she never drives in DC.

It's eaiser when people ask where your from, you just say DC then try to explain the northern virginia thing.

 

[HighViscosity]

Is it smooth when you wind it out?

 

[2k05gt]

Originally Posted By: HighViscosity
Is it smooth when you wind it out?


I just got back from picking up my Daughter so I used the shifter mode (slap stick, or Auto Stick) to "wind it out" and it's smooth, the vibration seems to be when under normal driving, downshift accelaration like cruise control and you go up hill and it tries to maintain speed and the engine RPMs get up to 3K-4K the engine vibrates enough to cause coins in the ash tray to make noise.

 

[HighViscosity]

At first I was thinking bad injector, but it wouldn't smooth out at higher rpm's. If it was a rod, you should be able to hear it if its that bad. It does it in other gears and speeds, that reduces the chance of it being the trans. I guess I would use some Redline SL1 fuel cleaner and try a heavier oil and see if it
changes. I've never encountered a problem like yours before. If each cylinder is making equal power then it sounds like a balance issue, or a seriously loose part, which again is unlikely. Have you done a google and chrysler forum search for these symtoms. It could be a common problem like a torque converter etc.

 

[2k05gt]

I have signed up to a couple of 300M forums to ask. One suggestion was to replace the fuel filter, I have never done that. another was to replace the plugs, I only cleaned them since they are 100,000 mile plugs. and one more thought was a Bad Coil Pack, since they are Coil on Plug design.
But again like some one else said the 3.5L V6 is a very good engine.
Fuel Filter will be replaced in the morning.

Where can I get the Redline fuel additive?

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: 2k05gt

Where can I get the Redline fuel additive?

Speed shops usually have it.

 

[cchase]

With all the stuff you were doing to the engine on this oil run the UOA seems fairly useless, unless I am horribly mistaken. There are a lot of variables thrown in there. Personally I'd stay the course on this oil change and just see what happens.

 

[TEX]

You may not have a fuel filter on that car. I have a 99 300m with the 3.5L and it has no filter other than the screen in the tank. Seems strange to me but just to let you know in case you can't seem to find one.

 

[wirelessF]

Some newer cars have the fuel filter built into the fuel pump. You probably have to buy the whole assy (filter, pump, sensor) just to service the filter. They call it a "lifetime" filter.

 

[HighViscosity]

A fairly reliable way to test your fuel filter for flow restriction is to drive it full throttle. If it cant get enough fuel for a proper mix the engine will feel
rough or have noticeably less power. Most lifetime filters will outlast the pump, unless your regular gas station has a lot of debris. You may want to consider taking it to the dealer for a diagnostic. This goes much more in depth than a free scan at an auto parts store.

 

[JohnBrowning]

This has nothing to do with oil. Either your wife is driving the tar out of this car (not the word I wanted to use but the nanny gets in the way of the truth)or this engine has some serious mechanical issues. You have excessive wear at both ends of the engine which is unusual.

 

[Gary Allan]

He's not getting codes so that rules out the ignition for the most part. It may be the transmission or the converter clutch having issues.


If the fuel pump setup is the same as my jeep, it's an integrated pump-filter-pressure regulator. You can get the pump and the filter (this is in addition to the mesh sock and the screen open end of the pump) separately, but if the pressure regulator fails, you must buy the whole unit (pump/filter/etc.).

Any misfires ..whether of ignition origin or being too lean from lack of enough fuel, would most likely generate a CEL. We haven't seen indication of one.

 

[Geonerd]

Originally Posted By: 2k05gt


Originally Posted By: Geonerd

Does she hammer on the car straight out of the driveway? Loading or wildly revving a stone cold engine is not a kind thing to do.


She never lets it warm up, she just goes.. Always in a hurry like most working moms.


The wear metals are sorta high, but not necessarily indicative of mechanical disaster; I'm hoping they aren't directly related to the mystery vibrations. (With luck, you'll find and fix an ignition/fuel/? issue.) You might council the wife about 'taking it easy' for a few minutes after starting the car, and also switch to a 0W-30 oil (the extra high temp thickness of 'German Castrol' can't hurt!), just to get the lube to those poor tortured bearings a few seconds sooner.

 

[JohnBrowning]

If the cam sensor was bad enough detonation could have been taking place which would explain all of the above. Detonation will destroy an engine if left un checkedlong enough. I have seen a few rare cases of detonation from bad feul or ignition problems that had super high lead,iron levels and other wear metals too that where insane. In fact until the owner mentionedit I would have thought the engine ws coming apart. I would definately try M1 0W40.It shears to a 0W30 rather quickly but it has some good chemicalproperties that make it good for cleaning any excessive wer metals out andnormalizing things. It flows fast and plates up well under EP conditions. I would try that before going to RTS 5W40 with winter upon us.