Mobil 1 0w-40 01 Z06 5200 mi

silverz06vette · Jun 28, 2005

67814 on car
5213 on oil

Here is a link that has the past 2 UOAs:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002372

Just 5200 miles as this was the first time that I ran M1 0w-40. I had 2 trackdays down in Sebring, FL temp where in excess of 300° in seven sessions. I even saw 307° once before I cooled it down for a few laps.

1 qt over for trackuse. Baldwin filter.

Patman · Jun 28, 2005

Lead is very good! The 3ppm of tin is kinda worrying though, and I definitely wouldn't be happy with 33ppm of iron either (my last 6k run in my C5 with GC was only 9ppm of iron, through the winter too)

I'd love to see you try GC in your Z!

silverz06vette · Jun 28, 2005

GC-If I could find some for $3 a quart....I looked at advanced auto the other day and all they had was the US version.

I did break a valve spring near the end of this oil run, think that would have anything to do with the high iron. Had the valve covers off, but area was covered for a few days while waiting for new parts. Replaced rockers and installed some dual springs with Ti retainers.

Patman · Jun 28, 2005

Aren't the valve springs on the Z06 made of titanium though?

silverz06vette · Jun 28, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Aren't the valve springs on the Z06 made of titanium though?

I don't think so. Will see if I can find out for sure later tonight.

How does the oil look to you Patman? Was it still hanging in there even with the high oil temps at the track?

Patman · Jun 28, 2005

I just did some googling and it doesn't mention that the LS6 uses titanium springs, so I guess I was wrong. I can't find out what the springs are made of.

The oil definitely did a decent enough job in your engine though, considering the hard use. I do think you could see better results with other oils. With the types of oil temps you're seeing, I think you should try something with a higher HTHS number. (GC might not even be high enough here, although I still believe it would outperform M1 0w40)

silverz06vette · Jun 28, 2005

I have the old springs in the garage, I'll go out and put a magnet on them.

So does M1 make anything with a higher HTHS #, I really don't want to go to 15w-50 in this stock motor.

I'm sure that some of amsoils have better #s. But just trying to keep my oil at the $3 or less/qt. I still have plenty of pepboys coupons.

Patman · Jun 28, 2005

You could always try the M1 5w40, or even their new 10w40 Extended Performance. I believe the 5w40 has an HTHS of around 4.1. I'm not sure on the 10w40 though.

silverz06vette · Jun 28, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
You could always try the M1 5w40, or even their new 10w40 Extended Performance. I believe the 5w40 has an HTHS of around 4.1. I'm not sure on the 10w40 though.

Looks like 10w-40EP has a HTHS of 3.9:

Mobil 1 EP specs

I don't see a listing for the M1 5w-40 on the M1 site:

Mobil 1 info

For reference the M1 0w-40 has a HTHS of 3.6

M1 0w-40 specs

buster · Jun 28, 2005

All things considered, I think this is an excellent report. Oil stayed in grade. I don't like the Fe with Mobil 1. Even at 33ppm, that is a very small number. You could definitely try Amsoil or GC to see if the Fe comes down. I'm like most others on here and want the lowest numbers possible, even though I know that something like 33ppm is insignificant.

TooSlick · Jun 28, 2005

Given the seven (7) quart sump, the level of valve train wear is too high (and not surprising at all).

I'd try the German Castrol or the Mobil 1, 5w-40 - at least for the summer. I'd run the Mobil 1, 10w-30/EP for the winter, since you're in the South.

The higher level of ZDP in the Extended Performance formula MAY help reduce this excessive valve train wear. Note that the 30wt (also Mobil 1) you ran previously had lower Fe levels than did the 0w-40, which sheared by 10% - even in this non-turbocharged pushrod motor! Not acceptable at all in my book.

This is a fairly low rpm motor, so going to the 5w-40 won't cost you too much power....

Tooslick

silverz06vette · Jun 28, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
Given the seven (7) quart sump, the level of valve train wear is too high (and not surprising at all).

I'd try the German Castrol or the Mobil 1, 5w-40 - at least for the summer. I'd run the Mobil 1, 10w-30/EP for the winter, since you're in the South.

The higher level of ZDP in the Extended Performance formula MAY help reduce this excessive valve train wear. Note that the 30wt (also Mobil 1) you ran previously had lower Fe levels than did the 0w-40, which sheared by 10% - even in this non-turbocharged pushrod motor! Not acceptable at all in my book.

This is a fairly low rpm motor, so going to the 5w-40 won't cost you too much power....

Tooslick

What about the M1 10w-40ep? I got some 0w-40 in there again and heading back to the track in mid july. I hate to dump and waste it.

Also I always add a quart over as per GM when at the track, should I add a quart of 15w-50?

Mitch Alsup · Jun 28, 2005

A general comment:

Track use is hard on an oil, The high RPM use and high heat levels will consume the oil additive package even when the oil viscocity remains stable.

For my track use, I don't go to the track if the oil is older than 1000 miles and change the oil after every or every other track day (depending if its a one day session or a weekend pair of sessions).

Your Vette has an oil monitor built into the DIC, many who track their Vettes find that the oil monitor will loose 35%-40% of the oil life in a single track day (fresh oil at the start).

What did the DIC in you car say about the oil life remaining?

AndyH · Jun 28, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by silverz06vette:
GC-If I could find some for $3 a quart....I looked at advanced auto the other day and all they had was the US version.

That's because it is only sold in AutoZone stores in the U.S.

quote:

Originally posted by silverz06vette:
I don't see a listing for the M1 5w-40 on the M1 site.

Here:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Truck_SUV_5W-40.asp
No HTHS rating listed, but as Patman mentioned it is 4.1

Patman · Jun 28, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by silverz06vette:

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I just did some googling and it doesn't mention that the LS6 uses titanium springs, so I guess I was wrong. I can't find out what the springs are made of.

Click to expand...

I checked with the guys over at ls1tech, they said the stock springs are made from:

Vanadium Chrome Silicon Steel

Thanks for the update! I don't know why I didn't just check on LS1Tech.com first, considering that is the best resource for LS1/LS2/LS6 info (also considering the fact that I'm one of the moderators there too!)

silverz06vette · Jun 29, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Mitch Alsup:
A general comment:

Track use is hard on an oil, The high RPM use and high heat levels will consume the oil additive package even when the oil viscocity remains stable.

For my track use, I don't go to the track if the oil is older than 1000 miles and change the oil after every or every other track day (depending if its a one day session or a weekend pair of sessions).

Your Vette has an oil monitor built into the DIC, many who track their Vettes find that the oil monitor will loose 35%-40% of the oil life in a single track day (fresh oil at the start).

What did the DIC in you car say about the oil life remaining?

Mitch, I have never had that happen or has anybody I know that tracks their C5s. Mine was at 50% at 5200 miles which is normal for me considering the amount of highway driving I do.

As you can see from my past UOAs with track use, where I have ran up to: 3 trackdays on the same oil with 4400 miles, 2 days at 7700 miles and these 2 days at 5200. The oil usually still has a good TBN, ect. I would like to go with something with a higher HTHS thus looking at the M1 10w-40ep.

Thanks for your thoughts.

silverz06vette · Jun 29, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I just did some googling and it doesn't mention that the LS6 uses titanium springs, so I guess I was wrong. I can't find out what the springs are made of.

I checked with the guys over at ls1tech, they said the stock springs are made from:

Vanadium Chrome Silicon Steel

silverz06vette · Jun 29, 2005

Here is some more info about the springs that was posted over at LS1tech:

quote:

Actually you are more correct than you realize. All steel, even valve spring steel only has a few % of the alloying elements like Chromium, Vanadium, Carbon, Silicon, Sulphur. etc. The balance is iron! Of course it's not anything like Cast iron you'll find in blocks, some heads, etc.

TooSlick · Jun 29, 2005

You have a $40K car and you're trying to save $20.00/year on oil? It makes NO sense at all to me.

I'd run one of these:

1) Amsoil Series 2000, 0w-30
2) Redline 5w30
3) German Castrol, 0w-30
4) Royal Purple 10w-30

Any one of these will give you significantly lower valve train wear than the oils you're currently using.

Generally a better oil will also last significantly longer in service, in addition to giving you better protection from wear and deposits. On a per mile basis, it often is the most cost effective choice.

"You can pay me now, or pay me later..."

Tooslick

silverz06vette · Jun 29, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
You have a $40K car and you're trying to save $20.00/year on oil? It makes NO sense at all to me.

I'd run one of these:

1) Amsoil Series 2000, 0w-30
2) Redline 5w30
3) German Castrol, 0w-30
4) Royal Purple 10w-30

Any one of these will give you significantly lower valve train wear than the oils you're currently using.

Generally a better oil will also last significantly longer in service, in addition to giving you better protection from wear and deposits. On a per mile basis, it often is the most cost effective choice.

"You can pay me now, or pay me later..."

Tooslick

I hear you, but what I'm trying to figure out here that is there another M1 product that will get the job done for the track. Too bad not enough info on the M1 10w-40ep. Without track use in the cooler months, I'm sure that M1 5w30 will be fine.

I'm still thinking that the increased iron could of come from the broken spring. Maybe/maybe not.

Thanks for your time.

Mobil 1 0w-40 01 Z06 5200 mi

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