Mixing grades

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Swift101

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Hey Everyone,

I just took my Sonata to the dealer to complete an engine recall. They needed to test the engine for knock and other issues since they claim a certain amount of engines from the 2011-2014 Sonata model years are defective. I'll provide a link below which has more detail on the problem. Basically their fix it to install a shorter dip stick which increase the oil sump capacity from 5.0 to 5.2 quarts. In my opinion it's a terrible fix because it doesn't guarantee anything, only increases oil pressure. But the issue is I always use M1 or Castrol 0W-40, the service manager said they need to top off the engine using 5w30 synthetic blend as per Hyundai Corporate. Will adding .2 quarts (189ml) of 5w30 synth blend cause any issues? I'm 1000 miles into my OCI, don't want to dump the oil unless I really need to.

For the record my engine has never consumed 0W-40 of 5W-40 which is why I use those grades. I didn't have the same luck with 5w30 which required top off after 2-3 months. I suspect the turbo variant engines like higher weight oils, but maybe that's only true for my engine.

Either way, the only reason why I took my car to get checked out, is to keep the warranty intact. Which is now extended to 120k miles due to potential engine issues.

https://hyundai.oemdtc.com/Recall/162/RCMN-17V226-4739.pdf

Thanks,
Swift
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
How does adding .2 quart of oil help stop the engine from blowing up?


That's the million dollar question....
 
It gives a little bit more to compensate of oil burning.

No, adding other grade will not cause your engine to blow up either.
 
If you think about it, you probably have .2 quarts remaining after each oil change and the new oil will mix with it.

Your experience is one reason I do not trust Hyundai and trying to be careful what oil I use in my Elantra.
 
Initially Sounds like a bunch of pseudo science. They didn't need to add .2qts! There is a safe oil RANGE and all cars will operate w/in that range. not all cars are moving around topped up - ex maybe HERE!
smile.gif


But with a chain motor, at a lower warmup viscosity, if the oil management is not correct the chain can pump oil out of the sump at certain higher RPM possibly leave it dry esp going up a mopderate grade. I know I do this every day in the winter - I have to climb a 25% grade with a cold engine at 3000rpm.

Is this rear pickup or front pickup?
 
The dealer added the oil that the manufacturer recommends, on their dime. Nothing noteworthy. However, I don't see how an additional .2 quarts of oil is going to remedy anything.
 
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.2 qts isn't going to fix anything.
They have to be doing something else to fix whatever problem exists.
 
Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
If you think about it, you probably have .2 quarts remaining after each oil change and the new oil will mix with it.


It could be more than a quart remaining during an oil change, even for a small engine.

I recently rebuilt a BMW M54 I6 engine that took at least 1.5 quarts more for the first fill than it does for an oil change. A good part of that goes into the hydraulic system it uses to adjust valve timing, but there was plenty that drained out of the oil pump, pressure regulator and oil passages.

Remember that when waiting for the last few drops to drain from the oil pan -- the only reason to do so is to minimize the mess.

In this case the shorter dipstick might have also reduced the capacity between the full and empty marks. Perhaps a steep incline with a minimum fill resulted in a chain or timing gear no longer dipping into the oil, or even the oil pick-up tube sucking in air.
 
What I love about the link is how very specific they were on whether to use Conventional or Synthetic. If the engine passes throw Dino in it, if it fails and gets a new engine then use synthetic.

We know that synthetic is superior in nearly every way. I don't understand why OEM's don't start requiring it in the Owner's Manual.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite

But with a chain motor, at a lower warmup viscosity, if the oil management is not correct the chain can pump oil out of the sump


On MOST (if not all?) chain-driven cam engines, the bottom sprocket does NOT dip low enough to reach engine oil level.
 
Originally Posted By: Throt

We know that synthetic is superior in nearly every way. I don't understand why OEM's don't start requiring it in the Owner's Manual.


Synthetic oil is NOT NEEDED to get the car to successfully last through the warranty period (on *most* engines).

Those that almost always can/will last past warranty on conventional oil will NEVER have a synthetic oil specified.
 
I don't understand why they would differentiate in the first place. Why Conventional oil for a car that passes and if a new engine is required (same 2.4L mind you), synthetic is to be used.
 
Most chain drives won't pump much ... Except maybe some Ford V6's in the explorer that had both front and rear chains so they got you either climbing steep hills, or descending
laugh.gif
 
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Thanks everyone for the info and advice. I picked up my car a few hours ago, turns out they changed the oil and filter. Which somewhat upset me since I was only 1000 miles into my OCI. The receipt only states that the engine oil and filter were changed, no mention of the type of oil and grade. I suspect it was 5w30 dino or synth blend. Either way I'm draining it tomorrow morning and re-filling with M1 0W-40.

I have an old school belief that all turbo engines should use synthetic oil (and I'm only 27) . I know it's probably a waste of money to change the oil right after they did but it'll help me sleep at night. After all I have no idea what they really put in the sump. Not to mention they tried telling me that I had to do a brake fluid flush. The service adviser said it looked "dirty", I told her no thanks.

I doubt they used any kind of "special oil" after performing the test. As far as I know I can just drain it and refill with what I normally use.

Thanks,
Swift
 
Call and ask what they put in you sump.

In my opinion, if GDI engines all but require synthetic oil,
adding a turbo makes it even more of a requirement.
Each by themselves put a strain on engine oil, together it
doubles the demand.

My 2¢
 
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