Misfire troubleshooting

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Vehicle is 2002 Malibu with 3.1 V6 engine.

Cylinder 5 is apparently under a constant misfire condition.
I am not there, had owner perform tests to isolate problem.

Coil is providing spark, spark plug wire providing spark to plug, spark plug firing correctly.

What else could cause this?
 
injectors, or MAYBE an intake gasket? Is it losing aintifreeze? Have the owner run a leak down and compression test and let us know.
Dusty
 
If possible we usually rotate a coil to another position to isolate. Wire and plug, too.

Failing that, You need to make sure the injector is reliably working as well, but they are rarely the problem.

Once all the sparking parts are confirmed, then you look at mechanical stuff. Broken rocker, pushrod, bad lifter, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
If possible we usually rotate a coil to another position to isolate. Wire and plug, too.

Failing that, You need to make sure the injector is reliably working as well, but they are rarely the problem.

Once all the sparking parts are confirmed, then you look at mechanical stuff. Broken rocker, pushrod, bad lifter, etc.



Whats the best way to confirm injector operation?

Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
injectors, or MAYBE an intake gasket? Is it losing aintifreeze? Have the owner run a leak down and compression test and let us know.
Dusty


LIM gasket was replaced about a year ago, not losing antifreeze, run UOA's regularly to check.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase


Whats the best way to confirm injector operation?


This is pretty hokey but if you cycle the key a couple times on a cold motor to prime the fuel system then pull the plug it should be dry.

Stick the plug back in, don't connect its wire, then crank or run the engine a few seconds.

Now, it should be wet.

I had a leaky injector in my silhouette 3.4, so it does happen. Blinking CEL EXCEPT hammering it on the highway, when there was finally enough air for all the fuel to burn properly.
 
Sounds like the injector is probably clogged or not cycling, but a compression test on that cylinder should be done. There's fancy equipment that will test that the injector is being triggered by the PCM, tests the injector coil, and checks flow. Without that you can probe at the 10-way injector harness engine side with a voltmeter to check resistance. You can also probe with a test light to +battery at the PCM side of the harness to check that the PCM is cycling injector while while cranking. You'll need a wiring schematic.
 
how did you test the spark quality to that cylinder? Injectors are not that common failure points on these cars.

Did he ohm out the wires, check gap/condition of plugs and coil output correctly?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mattd
how did you test the spark quality to that cylinder? Injectors are not that common failure points on these cars.

Did he ohm out the wires, check gap/condition of plugs and coil output correctly?


Admittedly I'm not there and I am dealing with a female who isn't particularly well-versed on the subject so I have only limited information at this point.

I had her disconnect the spark plug wire at the coil and confirm correct spark interval, then had her remove the spark plug with everything attached and confirm good spark at plug.

The car is misfiring constantly, not intermittently, as though the plug is not connected at all. I ran out of checks for her to do as I'm not going to have her pull the intake plenum off and start testing the injector with a multimeter or anything like that so the car is going under the knife on Friday.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase
The car is misfiring constantly, not intermittently, as though the plug is not connected at all. I ran out of checks for her to do as I'm not going to have her pull the intake plenum off and start testing the injector with a multimeter or anything like that so the car is going under the knife on Friday.


Probably best to take it in, but I like I said there is no need to take the upper intake off to test that injector circuit with a multimeter and test light because there is a 10-wire connector for that near the coil pack. Of course if it turns out the inector is bad the intake has to come off. That could get expensive although an injector can become clogged and cleaning it at the rail can sometimes get it working again. I forgot to mention the PCM can detect a electrical malfunction in the injector circuits and set a code. I imagine it has a misfire code but if there's any other codes that would be telling.
 
I have no reason to believe the ignition system is as good as you say it is.
How do you know what the spark plug is doing under load in the engine? And the other parts as well ?
What tests were done?
Sure, this could be other things, but we can't rule ignition out yet.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I have no reason to believe the ignition system is as good as you say it is.
How do you know what the spark plug is doing under load in the engine? And the other parts as well ?
What tests were done?
Sure, this could be other things, but we can't rule ignition out yet.


You raise a good point, and of course the answer is I don't know. In my own experience with misfires caused by spark issues though, at idle in park it will be intermittent at best, not continual. Especially if the spark plug is firing, which it is at least to some degree that wouldn't result in non-stop misfiring. Even an improperly operating spark plug that fires occasionally will be better than one not operating at all. Not saying that's the case here, but it's enough for me to consider exploring some other options preliminarily.

Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Originally Posted By: cchase
The car is misfiring constantly, not intermittently, as though the plug is not connected at all. I ran out of checks for her to do as I'm not going to have her pull the intake plenum off and start testing the injector with a multimeter or anything like that so the car is going under the knife on Friday.


Probably best to take it in, but I like I said there is no need to take the upper intake off to test that injector circuit with a multimeter and test light because there is a 10-wire connector for that near the coil pack. Of course if it turns out the inector is bad the intake has to come off. That could get expensive although an injector can become clogged and cleaning it at the rail can sometimes get it working again. I forgot to mention the PCM can detect a electrical malfunction in the injector circuits and set a code. I imagine it has a misfire code but if there's any other codes that would be telling.


Unfortunately I'm dealing with a female with minimal automotive experience beyond what I've taught her. She doesn't have access to a multimeter and I don't have access to any electrical schematics. Your comment on a mis-operating fuel injector causing another code to trip reinforces a suspicion I had. Unfortunately when she took it to Advance Auto and had the code read they just told her it was misfire in cylinder #5 and of course she did not consider to ask if that was the only code or not. My suspicion is that there is another code as well but it's just that - a suspicion.

What is involved in removinng the intake plenum? Again, I don't have it in front of me to look at but from my memory it's just 2 gaskets, disconnecting some vacuum lines and a few bolts and it should come off, exposing the fuel rail and injector.

If it had not been #5 which is one of the more obscured rear cylinders I was going to have her try to at least use a stethoscope on the injector to see if she could hear it operating.

The vehicle does have close to 100,000 miles on it. My only concern was that I might be involved because I recently (several thousand miles ago) replaced the plugs and wires.

I considered having her swap the spark plug and wire with one on another cylinder but that would just move the misfire potentially and since she doesn't have a code reader there would be no way of knowing whether the misfire had moved to another cylinder or not, just that it was still existant.
 
Makes sense, it's probably best to have a good GM engine mechanic do the diagnostics. The plenum could be a little involved if you unhooked everything attached to it, but to just get to the injectors you can usually leave things like the throttle body coolant hoses, EGR pipe, throttle cable etc attached and roll the manifold out of the way, but definetly disconnect the sensor connections at the throttle body.
 
Two really simple things you can have her check...

Number one (if you haven't already) is to pull number 5 wire off the coil and inspect for rust/corrosion.

Number two is to get her to take something longish (10"-12") and metal (I like a 1/4 or 3/8 extension), put one end to her ear and the other to the injector body and listen to a few at idle, then move to #5 and compare.

I was able to do this to the wife's car. Constant misfiring. Turned out to be a stuck injector. It sounded WAY different than the rest. I just gave it a whap and all was good. This was about 60,000 miles ago.
 
Ignition misfires are most severe at mid throttle and WOT.
This is the greatest density in the CC and the hardest to fire through. [This is also why your torque curve is at it's best there, not way up high]

so a marginal ignition will show signs of misfiring there.
A really bad system will misfire anywhere.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Ignition misfires are most severe at mid throttle and WOT.
This is the greatest density in the CC and the hardest to fire through. [This is also why your torque curve is at it's best there, not way up high]

so a marginal ignition will show signs of misfiring there.
A really bad system will misfire anywhere.


That makes sense.

This went from normal to terrible all in one event. Car drove normally few days ago, then 2 days ago went to start it up and it was immediately misfiring constantly. Hasn't let up since.

I am curious to hear the diagnosis as it's out of my hands at this point. It concerns me that the "check oil" light was apparently on today when she took it to be washed, but I'm not sure if it's not just a flaky sensor.

The "check oil" light monitors the level of the oil (not the pressure) but I've taught her to immediately pull over and check if it comes on and the oil level was fine. Either a scary coincidence or a sign of things to come.
 
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