Minimum coolant for corrosion protection?
- Thread starter Avery4
- Start date
Thanks for the information everyone. I noticed that VP Cool Down says that it "contains a robust corrosion inhibitor package that protects all metals, especially aluminium, from corrosion, erosion, and electrolysis. It meets/exceeds ASTM specifications for fully-formulated engine coolant, including ASTM D3306." I presume this means that this additive will provide good corrosion protection when used with straight water?
I do 60/40 year round (60% coolant 40% distilled water).
I use MC Gold coolant. My son get's it for me at a great price with his employee discount. WM sells a 4-1 gallon containers of distilled water for about $3. I usually use 8 gallons to flush and fill.
I use MC Gold coolant. My son get's it for me at a great price with his employee discount. WM sells a 4-1 gallon containers of distilled water for about $3. I usually use 8 gallons to flush and fill.
Still searching for a more definitive answer, I asked both Prestone and Peak this question. Peak said their coolants are formulated to provide optimal corrosion protection at a 50/50 ratio but that 40/60 is the lowest that will provide adequate protection. Haven't heard back from Prestone, I'll probably call them and ask.
However, I just found that the Nissan GTR owners manual actually recommends a 30/70 mixture of coolant and water for "performance driving", so I would assume that ratio is safe as long as the coolant is changed at regular intervals.
However, I just found that the Nissan GTR owners manual actually recommends a 30/70 mixture of coolant and water for "performance driving", so I would assume that ratio is safe as long as the coolant is changed at regular intervals.
Last edited:
.
Perhaps this is your answer (which I already posted on another discussion):
Since 35:65 % is used on a LMS racing car it should be good enough for your needs.
If you aren't racing I don't think going any lower (like 10-20 % as suggested for racing
in hot countries) would make any sense for you.
.
Perhaps this is your answer (which I already posted on another discussion):
Since 35:65 % is used on a LMS racing car it should be good enough for your needs.
If you aren't racing I don't think going any lower (like 10-20 % as suggested for racing
in hot countries) would make any sense for you.
.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- May 28, 2022
- Messages
- 1
Hello all,
Though closely related to the posters question but not entirely. My grandfather 30+ years ago taught me something about coolant and i have used that advice ever since. It will sound crazy but i don't use any water in my coolant system on any of my vehicles.
When water is added to a coolant system it promotes rust, corrosion via Electrolysis and other factors. I have used this method in every liquid cooled engine i have ever owned. Being cheap every vehicle in my driveway has over 350,000 miles on it.
I have changed one water pump in a jeep 258 3 weeks after buying it. The jeep had 164,000 miles on it. I looked over the pump after i pulled it and the water jacket i could see with the pump removed. The pump housing behind the impeller was pitted and corroded as well as the water jacket.
Using 100% coolant dosen't change the freeze temperature as far as i can tell with a tester gauge. -40 and no it dosen't make the vehicle boil over heat either. I am speaking from personal experience used on a total of 14 vehicles.
I scoped the 258s coolant passages when i put a 4.0l head on it. It had 237,000 miles on it. I was amazed the once rusty coolant jacket behind the water pump was gray steel.
Hope this advice helps in some small way.
Though closely related to the posters question but not entirely. My grandfather 30+ years ago taught me something about coolant and i have used that advice ever since. It will sound crazy but i don't use any water in my coolant system on any of my vehicles.
When water is added to a coolant system it promotes rust, corrosion via Electrolysis and other factors. I have used this method in every liquid cooled engine i have ever owned. Being cheap every vehicle in my driveway has over 350,000 miles on it.
I have changed one water pump in a jeep 258 3 weeks after buying it. The jeep had 164,000 miles on it. I looked over the pump after i pulled it and the water jacket i could see with the pump removed. The pump housing behind the impeller was pitted and corroded as well as the water jacket.
Using 100% coolant dosen't change the freeze temperature as far as i can tell with a tester gauge. -40 and no it dosen't make the vehicle boil over heat either. I am speaking from personal experience used on a total of 14 vehicles.
I scoped the 258s coolant passages when i put a 4.0l head on it. It had 237,000 miles on it. I was amazed the once rusty coolant jacket behind the water pump was gray steel.
Hope this advice helps in some small way.
thats hogwash 100% has terrible cooling properties. and freezes between 0 and -5f
Actually you are the one who is ignorant of chemistry and physics.
This is complete nonsense.
If this worked, wouldn’t the manufacturers use pure glycol?
Glycol lacks the specific heat of water, it’s a poor substitute, and your advice is foolish because it not only severely degrades the performance of the cooling system, but it actually raises the freezing point over that of a 50/50 mix.
Utter nonsense.
If straight AF worked that much better in a cooling system, don't you think that it would be widely used in all automotive applications? Don't you think AF manufacturers would push any reason to use more of their product?
I’ve seen some crazy automotive things on the web, but this might be the craziest… Both boiling point AND freezing point will be adversely affected. And in a Jeep, too, one of the hotter running engines I’ve owned! My XJ would have blown a head gasket or head if I had ever tried something that dumb!
Similar threads
