During a strike at a local submarine hull fabrication plant one of the weldes got some work at a car repair shop I frequented. I needed a brass radiator neck rebrazed. The welder do so with a bead that was a work of art. Looked like caulk that had been smoothed after application. Only work that comes close is the welding on BMW bike frames.
Mig or Arch Welder??
- Thread starter stumpguy
- Start date
- Status
Also keep in mind that the Lincoln welder you get at a Sears or HomeDepot is not the same welder (or quality) as you get at a welding supply store. I believe this is also true of the Miller and Hobart ones from the box box stores.
You might find this thread interesting
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...205#Post2687205
I need to make the odd weld here and there. I used to be OK with a stick welder, but through lack of practice, I lost what skill I had.
MIG is quite easy. A few hours practice (test your welds) and you are ready to go.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...205#Post2687205
I need to make the odd weld here and there. I used to be OK with a stick welder, but through lack of practice, I lost what skill I had.
MIG is quite easy. A few hours practice (test your welds) and you are ready to go.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Also keep in mind that the Lincoln welder you get at a Sears or HomeDepot is not the same welder (or quality) as you get at a welding supply store. I believe this is also true of the Miller and Hobart ones from the box box stores.
So far I haven't seen a Miller welder at a big box store. Also as for the Miller brand, Hobart(Miller ownes them) is their discount welder which I have seen at Rual King.
Also keep in mind that the Lincoln welder you get at a Sears or HomeDepot is not the same welder (or quality) as you get at a welding supply store. I believe this is also true of the Miller and Hobart ones from the box box stores.
So far I haven't seen a Miller welder at a big box store. Also as for the Miller brand, Hobart(Miller ownes them) is their discount welder which I have seen at Rual King.
The Hobart looks good until you put it against the miller of the same size.
The whole wire transfer mechanism is plastic except for the metal roller on the Hobart. On the Miller its all metal.
I never saw a Miller in a big box store either but Tractor Supply has Hobart.
Was Hobart a better machine years ago? I see some old timers that look like tanks, same with Lincolns.
The whole wire transfer mechanism is plastic except for the metal roller on the Hobart. On the Miller its all metal.
I never saw a Miller in a big box store either but Tractor Supply has Hobart.
Was Hobart a better machine years ago? I see some old timers that look like tanks, same with Lincolns.
For an occasional user I doubt they'd ever know the difference between the Hobart and Miller feed mechanisms.
ITW owns both Miller and Hobart along with Weldcraft, Hobart Brothers, Bernard, and Kester (among many others.)
ITW owns both Miller and Hobart along with Weldcraft, Hobart Brothers, Bernard, and Kester (among many others.)
Originally Posted By: tom slick
For an occasional user I doubt they'd ever know the difference between the Hobart and Miller feed mechanisms.
ITW owns both Miller and Hobart along with Weldcraft, Hobart Brothers, Bernard, and Kester (among many others.)
I agree that the Lincoln at Home Depot or the Hobart at TSC would be fine for a shadetree mechanic. My point was only as an informed consumer, one should know there is a difference at least in the Lincoln sold at HD and from a welding supply. Another difference is infinite settings for the Lincoln at a welding supply vs a fixed number from a Lincoln at a HD.
For an occasional user I doubt they'd ever know the difference between the Hobart and Miller feed mechanisms.
ITW owns both Miller and Hobart along with Weldcraft, Hobart Brothers, Bernard, and Kester (among many others.)
I agree that the Lincoln at Home Depot or the Hobart at TSC would be fine for a shadetree mechanic. My point was only as an informed consumer, one should know there is a difference at least in the Lincoln sold at HD and from a welding supply. Another difference is infinite settings for the Lincoln at a welding supply vs a fixed number from a Lincoln at a HD.
Last edited:
I have mig and stick welders. In my (very limited) experience, the mig is easier for new clean metal and the stick is better for repairs on dirty or rusty metal.
Originally Posted By: another Todd
I have mig and stick welders. In my (very limited) experience, the mig is easier for new clean metal and the stick is better for repairs on dirty or rusty metal.
Stick welding(6011) will burn through some paint, oil, and other contaminants. Mig does need to have a clean surfice or pin hole city will erupt.
I have mig and stick welders. In my (very limited) experience, the mig is easier for new clean metal and the stick is better for repairs on dirty or rusty metal.
Stick welding(6011) will burn through some paint, oil, and other contaminants. Mig does need to have a clean surfice or pin hole city will erupt.
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 10,258
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Mig is super easy to learn. Even I can do it. I've had no luck with ARC welding or Torch welding though.
I have a Hobart 210 multi volt style where it uses either 115 or 230 and it seems like it's useless on 115. I have no idea why it doesn't put much metal down. It's been a few years since I've welded, but I don't think it's me. I called miller/Hobart and he said the 1/4" steel I was welding was the max I could do on 115. I was practicing on a mower blade. I turned it up to the max like the guy said, even turned the wire speed up and it lays a bead now but not anything that's going to hold anything.
Mig is super easy to learn. Even I can do it. I've had no luck with ARC welding or Torch welding though.
I have a Hobart 210 multi volt style where it uses either 115 or 230 and it seems like it's useless on 115. I have no idea why it doesn't put much metal down. It's been a few years since I've welded, but I don't think it's me. I called miller/Hobart and he said the 1/4" steel I was welding was the max I could do on 115. I was practicing on a mower blade. I turned it up to the max like the guy said, even turned the wire speed up and it lays a bead now but not anything that's going to hold anything.
Learned welding basics years ago from an expert, and spent a lot of time practicing myself on an old 220V Lincoln AC/DC stick welder I picked up at a local welding supply. Went through quite a bit of scrap and rod before I could consistently produce what I thought was a decent bead, but fabricated and repaired quite a bit of stuff with that box. Rod selection can also play a part, as some are more forgiving than others (7018 vs 6011 for example).
Have a nice Miller 180 wire feed now which I use for most work, but producing a good bead is not automatic with a wire feed. A goober can still produce gumball welds even with the best equipment. Practice and technique are just as important.
I agree with the poster who suggested getting a good stick welder and learning on it. Either at a local welding course or from an experienced friend/relative learn the basics and spend the time to practice. Techniques learned on a stick make transitioning to a wire feed easy.
Have a nice Miller 180 wire feed now which I use for most work, but producing a good bead is not automatic with a wire feed. A goober can still produce gumball welds even with the best equipment. Practice and technique are just as important.
I agree with the poster who suggested getting a good stick welder and learning on it. Either at a local welding course or from an experienced friend/relative learn the basics and spend the time to practice. Techniques learned on a stick make transitioning to a wire feed easy.
- Status
