"Meets or Exceeds OEM Specs"

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After perusing the filter aisle at the local AutoZone (my friend Ken and I were changing the oil on his Toyota Matrix today, so he needed oil and filters), I noticed that all the filters I looked at claimed to "meet or exceed OEM specs" (or some similar text to that effect).

Additionally, I'm sure a huge amount of vehicles are serviced at quick-lube shops (e.g. Jiffy-Lube, Grease Monkey, etc.) and have the cheapest possible filters installed, as opposed to name-brand ones. Clearly even these must meet OEM specs, if barely.

With the huge varieties of cars out there, how can this be? Surely all the various manufacturers have different specs for filters. How can even the cheapest filters meet this range of specs (both for particle size and flow rate)?

On a related note, what are the OEM specs for different manufacturers? Anyone know?
 
Good questions.

Statements like these are really so vague that they are not even worth paying attention to, IMO.
 
A lot of the independent oil change places around here use the Champ Labs filters. Alright stuff if it's installed properly.

Not sure what Valvoline or the other big franchise guys use.
 
Originally Posted By: LS2JSTS
A lot of the independent oil change places around here use the Champ Labs filters. Alright stuff if it's installed properly.

Not sure what Valvoline or the other big franchise guys use.


I've helped a few friends change their oil, and nearly all of them have some sort of not-major-brand (or in one case, a NAPA-brand) filters that are clearly marketed towards service facilities rather than the general public.

Who knows who actually makes those filters, but such filters worry me a bit more than even orange-can Fram filters.
 
The spec's are only known to the OEM producer and their aftermarket producer. The rest play reverse engineer. I don't know how they factor different bypass valve settings, but it appears to be in a given range. I imagine that holding capacity and flow rate would be one such OEM requirement. ADBV's have a time component to them. All of those could be met or exceeded.

Champ labs produces many ASSEMBLY LINE OEM filters. They don't produce all that many OEM AFTERMARKET filters. The assembly line filters are 100% assured to be the absolute cheapest filter that can meet those spec's. It's a bid job and add straight to the cost of the rolling chassis.
 
I think it wouldnt be that hard to meet "oem specs".
What is a filter anyways?
Basicly its folded media attached to end caps in a canister housing.
You have to match filtering capacity and flow rates, but for an aftermarket manufacturer this should be cake.

The only thing about meeting "oem specs" are the guys who run bigger / different filters on their vehicles while still in factory warranty.
This instantly VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY.
Then if the engine blows with the wrong filter on it, they cry and whine when the manufacturer turns them away.

go figure?
 
I finally just got tired of wondering "is this really a good filter for my engine" and started buying OEM oil filters straight from the dealerships and online.

Unless an aftermarket filter is built specifically for your engine then I'd be suspicious. Aftermarket filters for my vehicle say they also apply to generators, tractors, mowers, countless other vehicles, etc etc etc. Many afermarket filters can be of very high quality, but I just don't like the whole "one size fits all" approach they often take.

Also, when it comes to air filters, aftermarket air filters tend to let a lot of debris slip by the outter edges over time while OEM air filters fit like a glove in my application. I've tried both FRAM and Purolator in my vehicle and both are inferior to the OEM product.

If there's any doubt in your mind, just buy OEM. It's just as easy to drop by a dealership's parts department as it is to drop by Autozone and their are plenty of OEM vendors online. :)
 
Soobs: That's the truth, with the exception of dropping by a dealership being "just as easy" -- the closest dealer is about 15 minutes away, while the closest AutoZone is just a block or two away.
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Although I picked up some filters at the dealer yesterday for my Dremel project, I discovered that the exact same OEM filters are available on eBay in 10-packs for $3.80/each (including shipping) compared to $5/each + tax at the local dealer. That'll be enough to keep me going for the next 5 years or so, and costs less than a Fram.

I think I'll stick with OEM filters (oil and air), as they're modestly price and help me sleep a bit better. No sense being penny wise and pound foolish.
 
Guys, I think some of ya'll are over thinking this. After all, the car manufacturer is having their filter OEM'd somewhere and cut-aways have shown the internal construction to change over time. Have you ever considered that they're simply choosing the filter spec by its mounting footprint and height clearance from some industry table of predefined sizes?

For instance, Toyota and Honda have more different engine designs than they do OEM filter sizes...does that really suggest the filters are designed for the engine? I would expect a similar method applies to brake pads...match the foot print and friction code and you've met OEM spec, simple as that.

-Brent
 
Originally Posted By: RiverWolf
For instance, Toyota and Honda have more different engine designs than they do OEM filter sizes...does that really suggest the filters are designed for the engine?


To some degree, yes. I'm sure the car manufacturers set specs for bypass pressure, particle filtration, and flow rate. They then build (or contract out) filters to those specs.

To keep things simple, one manufacturer (e.g. Toyota) probably uses the same specs for a variety of engines, allowing the same filter to be used for these different engines.

However, a third-party filter of a particular size has to meet specs for a few different manufacturers, which may cause some problems.

Of course, I haven't heard of any problems with aftermarket filters, but something to keep in mind.
 
Originally Posted By: RiverWolf
Guys, I think some of ya'll are over thinking this. After all, the car manufacturer is having their filter OEM'd somewhere and cut-aways have shown the internal construction to change over time. Have you ever considered that they're simply choosing the filter spec by its mounting footprint and height clearance from some industry table of predefined sizes?

For instance, Toyota and Honda have more different engine designs than they do OEM filter sizes...does that really suggest the filters are designed for the engine? I would expect a similar method applies to brake pads...match the foot print and friction code and you've met OEM spec, simple as that.

-Brent


this is my thinking also.

they build an engine and come up with a set of specs and then look at filter manufactures data and find something that fits. If they can't they then contract to have a new one made.

And then most likely, who ever is cheapest wins.

just a guess tho
 
This is really something to not get worked up over. It's certainly not a problem worth driving out of your way and spending more money to solve.

What's an "OEM filter" anyway? On the models I've seen, Ford uses a Champion labs filter from the factory but the OEM filters sold at the Ford parts counter are made by Purolator. They're exactly the same as the Purolator filters sold at Walmart but completely different than the filters installed at the factory.

So which one is the "OEM filter"?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: jsharp

So which one is the "OEM filter"?


They're both, built to spec, OEM oil filters. Ford isn't the only company that has more than one oil filter manufacturer building their OEM oil filters.
 
Originally Posted By: Soobs
Originally Posted By: jsharp

So which one is the "OEM filter"?


They're both, built to spec, OEM oil filters. Ford isn't the only company that has more than one oil filter manufacturer building their OEM oil filters.


As is the same filter at Walmart for a couple of bucks less.

Filters aren't rocket science. OEM spec means the filter met some manufacturers specification and cost them the right amount of $$. It doesn't seem too difficult to find a filter that's just as good and/or cheaper.

I'm much rather use a Pure 1 or a Wix than an FL1A purchased from a Ford dealer for more $$, even if I'm unsure that they meet OEM specs.
 
Originally Posted By: jsharp
Originally Posted By: Soobs
Originally Posted By: jsharp

So which one is the "OEM filter"?


They're both, built to spec, OEM oil filters. Ford isn't the only company that has more than one oil filter manufacturer building their OEM oil filters.


As is the same filter at Walmart for a couple of bucks less.

Filters aren't rocket science. OEM spec means the filter met some manufacturers specification and cost them the right amount of $$. It doesn't seem too difficult to find a filter that's just as good and/or cheaper.

I'm much rather use a Pure 1 or a Wix than an FL1A purchased from a Ford dealer for more $$, even if I'm unsure that they meet OEM specs.


You know, this is all mostly personal preference and "whatever floats your boat"; however, I suppose it depends on what vehicle you're running. For my application, PureOnes leak in extreme cold, Wix doesn't have a high enough flow-rate, and neither have the manufacturer preferred bypass relief valve setting. So, while both "Meet or exceed OEM requirements" they still aren't the best all-around filter for my application. The OEM filter (for my car) is speced by the car manufacturer to be the best running filter for the widest range of environments and driving conditions. There is no aftermarket clone for my application. I can't just run down to Walmart and buy the cross-referenced part and get the same thing for less money. In fact, even the basic FRAM for my car costs more than the OEM filter.

Perhaps a PureOne or Wix is better for your vehicle, but I don't think anyone can say those particular filters are a better value than all OEM filters.

In the end... Like I said... It's all personal preference. I know what worked for my last car (which went 420,000 miles with no engine problems) before being totaled :doh:
 
The distinction between OEM assembly line filters and OEM aftermarket filters is that one is a line item on the rolling cost of the chassis coming off the line ..the other falls under normal ROI formulas.

Some engines have exceptional needs. Most do not.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
The distinction between OEM assembly line filters and OEM aftermarket filters is that one is a line item on the rolling cost of the chassis coming off the line ..the other falls under normal ROI formulas.

Some engines have exceptional needs. Most do not.


I've always wondered. What vehicles do you own and what do you use?
 
I have nothing that requires anything but the generic. Two Jeep Wranglers and a Ford Taurus 3.8. I haven't owned a Euro in about 30 years. I've used PureOne's for a good bit on frontline vehicles. For the extended fleet: ST's in the past but MC works when the price goes up across the board at Wally's.

EaO's work, but I'm close on cost:benefit with my wife's driving (15k+/-).
 
Autozone used to sell those oil filters in Yellow and brown boxs, Made in Mexico. I cant remmember the name, I dont think they sell them anymore, they were like 1.99. Anyway, I was changing oil in a company truck and they are so cheap about the oil/parts I bought one and it actually said on the side "May or may not meet Factory OEM specifications, check your owners manual" Iam thinking Good quality wording there.
 
Does anyone remember threads concerning whether oil filters were even needed?
After break in, which happens pretty early in an engine's life, there really isn't all that much to filter out.
Therefore, I think that all the concern about OEM vs. aftermarket oil filters may be silly.
As has been noted above, the OEM filters may not be all that special in any event.
 
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