Mazda3 2014 Engine Mount & Clutch Shudder

MRC01

MRC01

Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
2,026
Location
98245
My 2014 Mazda 3 (2.0 stick) has developed some clutch shudder. It's most apparent when cold and goes away when it warms up. It's got about 42000 miles. Also, the passenger side engine mount (#3) is leaking with oil seepage around it. I wouldn't say it's blown, still feels solid, but definitely leaking. Mazda issued a service bulletin (01-012/16) for this #3 engine mount and has a new/revised part (GHY1-39-060 / GHR9-39-060A). Despite the low miles, it's out of warranty on calendar time. It's about a $100 part and labor is free (DIY).

I suspect these problems may be related. I plan to replace the engine mount, since it's leaking and I should replace it anyway to get the revised part. If the clutch shudder goes away, great, I'm done.

Question: what places do you recommend for buying OEM Mazda parts?
 
Interesting that it's when cold. My '99 Camry, 5mt, does this too. I have no idea whether my clutch is about to go, but I do know it's butter-smooth, after the first two or so starts-from-a-stop of the day.
 
Not a recommendation as I have not used them but they were or still are a common place mentioned on a Mazda board.


Shop Mazda Parts & Shop Mazda Accessories | shopmazdaparts.com

Med Center Mazda only sells Genuine Mazda OEM Mazda Parts and OEM Mazda Accessories. Offering customers an opportunity to shop online for Genuine New Mazda Parts Online and Genuine Mazda Accessories Online. We ship anywhere in the USA and offer wholesale online pricing. Shop Mazda Parts and Shop...
www.shopmazdaparts.com www.shopmazdaparts.com
 
Here's my take on troubleshooting. Feel free to fact-check:

Clutch shudder (not clutch slip, but being too grabby) is often a problem with the clutch surface or flywheel. Excessive or uneven wear, hot spots, etc. But if this were the case it would shudder all the time, not just for the first cold start.

If the clutch shudders only on the first cold start, the cause must be something that disappears quickly. One likely cause is moisture on the surface caused by condensation, which being water (unlike oil), quickly scrubs off or evaporates. If it were oil contamination it would happen all the time, not just when cold.

A faulty motor mount exacerbates the shudder.
 
As this is quite a popular car, here's a public service update:

I got the new engine mount for about half the usual price on eBay from "partsbrokersllc" who has 100% feedback with 42,500 transactions. It's a new OEM part. It is the revised version, but I can detect no difference in construction from the original. Whatever Mazda changed isn't externally obvious.

The OEM mount bolts were torqued well above the specifications in the manual. I actually broke a 3/8" socket extension getting them off! After removing it, I clean up the residual fluid that leaked all over the engine so it's clean again. Both mounts, old and new, are more compliant/flexy than I expected, meaning the rubber has quite a bit of play. Installed the new part. Next morning cold start definitely had less clutch shudder. Just a hint, but much less than before. And there is less vibration, at idle you can't even tell whether the engine's running. The slight vibration it used to have is gone. After an hour of driving I loosened the engine mount bolts then re-tightened them.

Overall, while the original engine mount was still serviceable, I give this update a thumbs-up per Mazda's service bulletin. Yet if you're racing (like SCCA) you might want stiffer engine mounts.
 
Another update: after a second morning, this one much wetter than yesterday, clutch shudder is fully back. So the engine mount didn't fix it. I guess yesterday wasn't wet enough. The work wasn't a complete waste since the old mount was leaking and the part was revised, so I needed to replace it anyway. But too bad it didn't fix the clutch shudder.
However, I've learned it's definitely related to moisture. Only happens when both cold and wet.
I can do cold starts very carefully to avoid the shudder. So I might decide not to fix this.

That said, any ideas why a clutch might shudder only when both cold and wet?
 
A year later - another update: I started parking in the garage and the clutch shudder is gone. The good news is that this means the clutch surfaces, flywheel, etc. are in good shape. No need for an expensive replacement. The bad news is that I don't know what actually causes it, can only assume it's some combination of cold and wet environments.
 
MRC01 said:
A year later - another update: I started parking in the garage and the clutch shudder is gone. The good news is that this means the clutch surfaces, flywheel, etc. are in good shape. No need for an expensive replacement. The bad news is that I don't know what actually causes it, can only assume it's some combination of cold and wet environments.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my focus does this on the first couple starts when its been damp overnight, and actually makes a bit of a moderate howling noise. I find if I do a bit of higher rpm slipping on the first start it goes away.
 
See if RA sells the OEM part, but I usually find the Mazda part number and do a Google Shooping search on it. There are many dealers that discount from retail and sell online. They will operate under various URLs, but most are dealers. Just see who has the best price and don’t forget to compare shipping. I have used BAM Wholesale, but have bought elsewhere based on price.
 
MRC01 said:
A year later - another update: I started parking in the garage and the clutch shudder is gone. The good news is that this means the clutch surfaces, flywheel, etc. are in good shape. No need for an expensive replacement. The bad news is that I don't know what actually causes it, can only assume it's some combination of cold and wet environments.
Click to expand...
My manual transmission Kia Soul does this every first few starts of the day when it’s been damp or humid overnight. It’s annoying and I can’t remember my older cars ever doing it, but a few 1st gear starts later it’s fine. I just take it easy until it stops.

I mentioned it to the dealer and he said it’s most likely condensation. I googled it when I first got the car and saw posts on some Subaru, Hyundai and BMW forums and everyone seemed to say the same thing. Condensation. Maybe clutch disks are made of something different than they were 20 years ago. 🤷‍♂️
 
MRC01 said:
Which part? I already replaced the engine mount (which had a TSB issued) and the clutch doesn't seem to need replacing.
Click to expand...
Was responding to this:

Question: what places do you recommend for buying OEM Mazda parts?
 
My 2011 Mazda 6 has had clutch shudder for a long time now. It happens when it’s sat for a while without being driven and it has rained. It usually goes away fairly quick. I wouldn’t worry too much about it. It’s annoying but it’s part of life with a MT car. As you’ve mentioned it’s likely due to moisture/humidity getting into the clutch.
 
Good to hear I'm not the only one. I've owned other MT cars over the years and none of them have done this, so it was new to me.
 
My Mazda 3 does this as well. I always assumed the flywheel flash rust sort of like a rotor and the shudder is it getting cleaned off.. I have replaced my clutch and had flywheel resurfaced since I’ve had the car
 
nwjones18 said:
My Mazda 3 does this as well. I always assumed the flywheel flash rust sort of like a rotor and the shudder is it getting cleaned off.. I have replaced my clutch and had flywheel resurfaced since I’ve had the car
Click to expand...
And the replacement clutch still has the shudder? That’s good to know. Shortly after buying the Soul I considered having the clutch and flywheel replaced because of it…thought maybe the original owner didn’t know how to drive manual and wore the clutch out. Glad I didn’t do that.
 
Hyundai Respecter said:
And the replacement clutch still has the shudder? That’s good to know. Shortly after buying the Soul I considered having the clutch and flywheel replaced because of it…thought maybe the original owner didn’t know how to drive manual and wore the clutch out. Glad I didn’t do that.
Click to expand...
It does but its really minor now. 2-3 take offs tops and its normal. I will say the bad throw-out bearing on my car's symptoms were an awful shudder and noise. When I had it apart the flywheel looked like a mirror so its no wonder it was jerky before even prior to throw-out bearing failing completly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Replace rear main seal, with clutch? (Part quality issue.)
2 3
Replies
40
Views
4K
Quantico
B
2008 P71 Crown Vic Intake Manifold Dilemma
2
Replies
37
Views
5K
Timmastertech
G
Do you have a Mazda with a 2.5L?
2 3
Replies
51
Views
10K
someonesomewhere
1
Just buttoned up: 2014 Jetta GLI engine replacement
2
Replies
33
Views
4K
RAR
W
Modern Turbo Engine Reliability and Durability
3 4 5
Replies
88
Views
4K
wtd
Back
Top