Maxlife ATF Compatibility

If you've never changed the inline ATF filter, it's probably way overdue to be changed. @Sequoiasoon knows more about ATF inline filter than I do. See posts 96, 102, 104, 106 about it.
First one I ever did on a Honda was due to it rotting out and leaking on my father-in-laws. It was a where is that leak coming from, what is that? Dealer had to actually search for the part and said they never change that as far as he knows.

To me, easy access filter with 2 clamps = PM like other filters and fluids.

I had installed the one in the Sequoia as there were forum things and maybe TSB regarding transmission/metal/towing in overdrive etc. The Sequoia had a large mesh screen inside transmission pan that was probably 1500 micron sized holes. The Magnefine was the recommended easy inline install (it was).
 
Somebody had the detailed write up and pictures for Sequoia way back on Tundra solutions using the transmission cooler lines. Bucket with lines for qty measured out. Put line into bucket, start the vehicle, pump out 3-4 qts, shut it off. Fill up 3-4 qts and repeat. The BG Fluid exchange machine did basically that, not pumping/flush. You would add 12qts to machine, one line went to return (to refill transmission) other line to waste container, start the truck and all done pretty quickly. Some guys did that with extra bucket fittings etc.

Toyota T-IV wasn't too expensive, only matching (recommended/approved) probably not certified was Mobil I think 3309. Supposedly they made the T-IV back then sort of like the Idemitsu thing. The Mobil was full syn from what I recall, not sure if T-IV was.

After that I had dealer do some fluid changes and one time they added BG ATC+ which totally ruined the shifting feel (like slipping). I didn't request that but they did it as part of the service. Multiple arguments with dealer service manager about it's not right, Master tech went for ride said normal, all sorts of deny anything wrong. My answer was so it was "not" normal from factory for first maybe 40-50k as it didn't do this. Hauling a trailer, up hill, 5-6 people in vehicle I want to know it shifted gears. Not harsh, just positive engagement, not slipping slow rev hang.

I contacted BG and explained what I was feeling. They confirmed everything I said is what the ATC+ is supposed to do, softer less harsh shifts etc. They sent me an email with the details. I went to head service manager with it. He read it, called advisor and mechanic in, confirmed my complaints and their responses with them with his door open. He walked out asked for my keys and said if I don't mind please stand in the shop and watch the mechanic pour the 14qts of new T-IV into machine and do the exchange again with no additives. Please come back next week and the week after and he will do that again. He apologized for the inconvenience and shut the door with advisor still in there. I never had an issue after that with any requests, TSB's etc. Same service advisor, probably hated me but was at least was pleasant and cooperative to me.
Good for you! Stand up for yourself.

Yes, the fluid exchange machines I’ve used are simply in line with a trans cooler line. Very non-invasive. I’d love to get my hands on one for home!
 
3/8" is what I put on my Honda's. I posted measurements on Piloteers (under same name) for another member wondering if barbs were too small etc. (they are almost the same).
Measurements from my Piloteers post and then also with pictures of Magnefine in Honda clamp

3/8" Magnefine filter fittings as compared to factory Honda in case others want to know. Measured in inches from my Husky digital caliper. Very slightly narrower but all my hoses and clamps are tight.

Honda / Magnefine
wide part of barb .453 / .430
narrow neck barb .394 / .372
Inside diameter of barb .288 / .278

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Measurements from my Piloteers post and then also with pictures of Magnefine in Honda clamp

3/8" Magnefine filter fittings as compared to factory Honda in case others want to know. Measured in inches from my Husky digital caliper. Very slightly narrower but all my hoses and clamps are tight.

Honda / Magnefine
wide part of barb .453 / .430
narrow neck barb .394 / .372
Inside diameter of barb .288 / .278

View attachment 295104
View attachment 295105
IMO the Magnefine filter's multiple barbs/ridges look like they'd seal better than the single barb/ridge of the Honda OEM filter.
 
Yes, the fluid exchange machines I’ve used are simply in line with a trans cooler line. Very non-invasive. I’d love to get my hands on one for home!
I think people are confusing the "fluid exchange machines" with the "forced flush" machines of the past. The "forced or pressurized flush" machines of the past used a pressure pump but also included a solvent flush.

I think the fluid exchange machine, where the fluid is pumped by the transmission's pump alone, is safe.

For very gentle cleaning, the Drain and Fill is a good practice. 3 OC's seem to be about right for most vehicles whose OCI's are unknown or questionable.
 
Measurements from my Piloteers post and then also with pictures of Magnefine in Honda clamp

3/8" Magnefine filter fittings as compared to factory Honda in case others want to know. Measured in inches from my Husky digital caliper. Very slightly narrower but all my hoses and clamps are tight.
I also use the 3/8" Magnefine filters when installing/replacing the ATF filters on various Honda vehicles. It is usually OK to reuse the OEM constant spring tension hose clamps, but if they have deteriorated, I replace them with high pressure fuel injection hose clamps sourced from Autozone instead of regular worm gear drive hose clamps (for added peace of mind).

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My daughter bought a new 2016 Acura RDX. Soon after the transmission would shudder in lock up. She brought her vehicle to the dealer and a TSB indicated the factory fluid couldn’t handle the heat generated. Updated software was installed as well as a fluid exchange with factory fluid. This fixed the problem for a bit, but it always returned. The dealer had no answer except to change the fluid again. I finally did a complete fluid change myself at around 30k miles with Maxlife and now have over 130k miles, never had the problem again. IMO the Maxlife is a better quality fluid and is probably the most widely fluid used.

View attachment 293955
Thanks Glenda. Your post ends the endless debate on whether to use Honda ATF-DW1 (semi-synthetic) or Valvoline MaxLife ATF (full synthetic).
 
Anyone knows the difference between Valvoline Max Life ATF sku 773775 (advance) vs sku 883806 (Walmart)? Good for Elantra 2017?
I don't know about using Maxlife in a Hyundai Elantra.

IMO, you'd be safest using Idemitsu ATF of whatever type Idemitsu specifies for your Elantra. Idemitsu is a safe bet, IMO. Otherwise use Hyundai OEM ATF for it. IMO.

https://www.idemitsulubricants.com

What is the sub model of your 2017 Hyundai Elantra? There are 5 sub models to choose from.
 
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Isn't the Idemitsu a compatible or recommended fluid just like Maxlife? Not licensed.
Yes. However, oils, ATF, etc for Japanese and Korean cars are specifically what Idemitsu specializes in.

Also, Idemitsu makes ATF that is car brand and model specific rather than a one size fits most multivehicle ATF. So I have maximum confidence in Idemitsu for Honda, Hyundai, Toyota, Mazda, Nissan, etc.

Maxlife is a multi-vehicle ATF that Valvoline recomnends for use in Honda, Hyundai, and many other brands. Maxlife ATF is probably fine for every type of car that Valvoline recommends if for.

I have more confidence in Idemitsu because it makes ATF that is vehicle specific for specific brands/models of Japanese and Korean cars.

Also, I've never read a bad user review of Idemitsu ATF used in J & K cars. I've seen Maxlife has mixed reviews for use in J & K cars.

So I have the most confidence in Idemitsu ATF for J & K cars. Idemitsu is affordably priced at NAPA, Rockauto, and elsewhere.
 
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I don't know about using Maxlife in a Hyundai Elantra.

IMO, you'd be safest using Idemitsu ATF of whatever type Idemitsu specifies for your Elantra. Idemitsu is a safe bet, IMO. Otherwise use Hyundai OEM ATF for it. IMO.

https://www.idemitsulubricants.com

What is the sub model of your 2017 Hyundai Elantra? There are 5 sub models to choose from.
2.0L SE
Idenitsu specifies wrong capacity. The correct capacity is 7.1q
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The usual drain amount is between 3.5 quarts and 4.
🤷

Regardless of amount, I still recommend using the Idemitsu fluid that Idemitsu recommends or using Hyundai OEM fluid. If it was my car, I'd buy the Idemitsu stuff without hesitation.

I can't comment on the amount to buy. I don't know that.
 
Yes. However, oils, ATF, etc for Japanese and Korean cars are specifically what Idemitsu specializes in.

Also, Idemitsu makes ATF that is car brand and model specific rather than a one size fits most multivehicle ATF. So I have maximum confidence in Idemitsu for Honda, Hyundai, Toyota, Mazda, Nissan, etc.

Maxlife is a multi-vehicle ATF that Valvoline recomnends for use in Honda, Hyundai, and many other brands. Maxlife ATF is probably fine for every type of car that Valvoline recommends if for.

I have more confidence in Idemitsu because it makes ATF that is vehicle specific for specific brands/models of Japanese and Korean cars.

Also, I've never read a bad user review of Idemitsu ATF used in J & K cars. I've seen Maxlife has mixed reviews for use in J & K cars.

So I have the most confidence in Idemitsu ATF for J & K cars. Idemitsu is affordably priced at NAPA, Rockauto, and elsewhere.
That is what they say. However, they are still not licensed oils and aren't the same as those, so how would you know they perform better?

After all the miles in my Japanese and European cars mostly using Maxlife, I do struggle to see the importance I'll confess. For me I used to chase the "right" ones but I gave that up long ago because I truly don't see the point.

Multi-vehicle isn't something I fear nor see as evil.
 
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