Maxlife ATF Compatibility

[Carlostrece]

This isn't your thread. It's everyone's thread. And who are you to tell me what to do ?

He's the one that brought it up. He's the one that's WRONG about it and needs to stop spreading false information.

The ridiculous barrel debate between you and Exhaustgases would have ended days ago if you stopped bringing it up. Most of Exhaustgases posts in recent days were his replies to your posts after each time you brought it up again.

Now you've done it again. I predict this will be the last time.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Is that a transmission filter in the cooling line? Are the Honda filter internals magnetic, cellulose, other?

OEM Honda filter vs Magnafilter
Which do you recommend and why?

I've never seen a trans filter in a cooling line on my Jeeps, Buick or Olds. Is that just a Honda thing?

Does the 03 Honda CR-V transmission also have another more conventional type filter mounted to the valve body (like I've seen in Jeep, Buick)?

The factory Honda filter is regular cellulose that I can tell, definitely no magnetic stuff.

I prefer the magnetic versions, just like magnetic drain plugs and Filtermag for oil filter. That said, that is on my vehicles where I know the scenario. I have no problem with recommending that to others but that’s on them.

On my Pilot I had installed a Magnefine also but have also since removed that as I want all factory on there if warranty coverage questions arise. I have 1 year and 3 months left.

IMO you can’t go wrong with relacing the factory filter with a new factory one installed in correct flow direction. If it is getting clogged for any reasons it may reduce line pressures or just go into bypass.

I know there are discussions about other internal filters but not on the easy drop pan and replace it. It’s buried way inside and would require a full transmission disassembly. I think they said it was a pretty large boulder catching screen only.

Many vehicles I don’t think even have cooler lines going to bottom of radiator anymore. I know Pilot only has a factory hockey puck type warmer/cooler unless you install the factory cooler. That then comes with rubber lines but still does not go through radiator.

My old Sequoia went through radiator first and then through a factory external cooler. I did install a Magnefine in the hot supply line to radiator on that and changed it every other year. Never cut it open though. If there are rubber hoses, installing one is easy with just clamps and something to secure it to.

The Magnefine from Pilot in not too long use and tranny magnetic drain plug.

 

[Carlostrece]

Are the grey hairy looking things metal caught by filter's magnetic?

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Filtermag also has a bypass in it if it gets to clogged up. Yes all little metallic things caught. That grey/black paste type stuff.

 

[Carlostrece]

This thread is back on track as a good learning tool. Thank you to all sincere participants.
Double thanks to Sequoiasoon!

 

[Carlostrece]

Filtermag also has a bypass in it if it gets to clogged up. Yes all little metallic things caught. That grey/black paste type stuff.

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In your prior post (post 104) you said "Filtermag". I think you meant to say "Magnafine" when referring to the ATF cooling line filter you showed in your photos. Great photos.

Wow. That Magnafine filter is impressive with cellulose, a large powerful neodynium magnet, and a bypass valve, and it costs less than the OEM cellulose filter! Sold!

I'll use that for my neighbor's CR-V ATF cooling line. I might also use one for my Buick's ATF cooling line. As Borat says... Very niiice.

Thanks for your great posts! I learn a lot of useful things from you!

 

[MolaKule]

Lets

Hall, I'm tired of this nonsense. You've been trolling Exhaustgases harping on and on about a barrel for many days. No one wants to hear anything more about that barrel.

Please leave my thread and do not return. If won't leave, then at least have the decency to never mention that barrel again. Also please stop trolling Exhaustgases, especially in my threads. It causes collateral damage to threads.

Exhaustgases, if Hall posts about that barrel again, please ignore it and do not reply.

I'm sick of hearing about that barrel. Everyone is sick of it. Please don't either of you bring it up again.

Then people can enjoy reading and participating in peace.

Let's clarify some things. No one owns a thread and no one tells another member to stop posting.

If you have a concern about a post then you notify Admins. We will then determine the appropriate actions.

 

[football]

Late to the party. But I think I can contribute (for future reference)

ATF Z1 is obsolete and no longer sold. It was superseded by DW1. DW1 is the fluid you should use.

I have maintained Honda automatic transmissions without failure for more than a million miles at this point. My formula is use Honda brand fluid and change it every 30-35k miles.

The Honda drain/fill only changes 1/3 of the fluid which is genius. This doesn’t shock the tranny like a flush or full drain would. Even a high mileage neglected transmission seems to do just fine with swapping only 1/3 of the fluid out.

Honda brand fluid is not expensive. You only need 4 quarts and I have purchased that amount for $20-$30 on many occasions. Online sales, eBay, Amazon, online Honda parts departments that want to increase sales, etc. Local dealer might even offer a deal on case quantities. The fluid is readily available, not all that expensive. I don’t see why I would switch to aftermarket “might work” fluid when Honda fluid always shifts perfect.

 

[Carlostrece]

Let's clarify some things. No one owns a thread and no one tells another member to stop posting.

I didn't tell him. I asked him. I said "please", which is a request. That was after days to a week of being antagonized.

If you have a concern about a post then you notify Admins. We will then determine the appropriate actions.

I did and it was determined and dealt with by Wwilson. It's over and a thing of the past. I've moved on.

I apologize for offending you. That was not my intention.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Late to the party. But I think I can contribute (for future reference)

ATF Z1 is obsolete and no longer sold. It was superseded by DW1. DW1 is the fluid you should use.

I have maintained Honda automatic transmissions without failure for more than a million miles at this point. My formula is use Honda brand fluid and change it every 30-35k miles.

The Honda drain/fill only changes 1/3 of the fluid which is genius. This doesn’t shock the tranny like a flush or full drain would. Even a high mileage neglected transmission seems to do just fine with swapping only 1/3 of the fluid out.

Honda brand fluid is not expensive. You only need 4 quarts and I have purchased that amount for $20-$30 on many occasions. Online sales, eBay, Amazon, online Honda parts departments that want to increase sales, etc. Local dealer might even offer a deal on case quantities. The fluid is readily available, not all that expensive. I don’t see why I would switch to aftermarket “might work” fluid when Honda fluid always shifts perfect.

I suggest there are millions of Hondas running around with non-DW-1 fluid in their transmissions.
I agree with the simple spill and fill that replaced 1/3 of the fluid, but doesn't the procedure say to do it 3 times with a short drive in between?

 

[Nessism1]

I suggest there are millions of Hondas running around with non-DW-1 fluid in their transmissions.
I agree with the simple spill and fill that replaced 1/3 of the fluid, but doesn't the procedure say to do it 3 times with a short drive in between?

No, the procedure doesn't say that.

 

[Carlostrece]

The factory Honda filter is regular cellulose that I can tell, definitely no magnetic stuff.

I prefer the magnetic versions, just like magnetic drain plugs and Filtermag for oil filter. That said, that is on my vehicles where I know the scenario. I have no problem with recommending that to others but that’s on them.

On my Pilot I had installed a Magnefine also but have also since removed that as I want all factory on there if warranty coverage questions arise. I have 1 year and 3 months left.

IMO you can’t go wrong with relacing the factory filter with a new factory one installed in correct flow direction. If it is getting clogged for any reasons it may reduce line pressures or just go into bypass.

I know there are discussions about other internal filters but not on the easy drop pan and replace it. It’s buried way inside and would require a full transmission disassembly. I think they said it was a pretty large boulder catching screen only.

Many vehicles I don’t think even have cooler lines going to bottom of radiator anymore. I know Pilot only has a factory hockey puck type warmer/cooler unless you install the factory cooler. That then comes with rubber lines but still does not go through radiator.

My old Sequoia went through radiator first and then through a factory external cooler. I did install a Magnefine in the hot supply line to radiator on that and changed it every other year. Never cut it open though. If there are rubber hoses, installing one is easy with just clamps and something to secure it to.

The Magnefine from Pilot in not too long use and tranny magnetic drain plug.
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What brand is your transmission drain plug?

I'd like to install a Magnefine inline filter in ATF cooling line of 03 Honda CR-V and my 97 Buick Park Ave.

What size Magnafine inline transmission filter for:
03 Honda CR-V
97 Buick Park Ave

I can figure out which size for each car, but you might already know. No harm in asking.

Amazon Magnefine prices are excellent, especially compared to Filtermag prices, IMO.

Magnefine 5/16" Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter
Magnefine 1/2" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter
Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter

 

[Carlostrece]

I suggest there are millions of Hondas running around with non-DW-1 fluid in their transmissions.
I agree with the simple spill and fill that replaced 1/3 of the fluid, but doesn't the procedure say to do it 3 times with a short drive in between?

Many transmission shops think 1 spill & fill is enough. I think 1 is enough.

My preferred local trans shop gave my Buick 2 spill & fills. They think 2 is ideal. I think 2 is ideal.

I don't think 3 is necessary, but if you're doing it yourself (free labor) then maybe 3 makes sense.

 

[JeffKeryk]

My Buick got 2 spill and fills by my local trans shop. They think 2 is plenty. However, if you're doing it yourself (free labor) then maybe 3 makes sense.

Most Hondas are sooo easy; perhaps easier than an oil change. So every 25K to 30K services are such a snap.

 

[Carlostrece]

Most Hondas are sooo easy; perhaps easier than an oil change. So every 25K to 30K services are such a snap.

Does that mean 1 spill & fill every 30K miles is enough for Hondas? I assume so because it's every 30K, which is more often than other cars I've had. Also, Hondas have an in cooling line ATF filter, which many cars do not have.

So the ATF in Hondas should stay clean (if the inline filter is changed) and a spill & fill at 30K.

My Buick only gets it's ATF spill & filled every 60K miles. I think a lot of people only do it every 120K miles, and my Buick has no inline filter (but I will add one soon).

 

[JeffKeryk]

Does that mean 1 spill & fill every 30K miles is enough for Hondas? I assume so because it's every 30K, which is more often than other cars I've had. Also, Hondas have an in cooling line ATF filter, which many cars do not have.

So the ATF in Hondas should stay clean (if the inline filter is changed) and a spill & fill at 30K.

My Buick only gets it's ATF spill & filled every 60K miles. I think a lot of people only do it every 120K miles, and my Buick has no inline filter (but I will add one soon).

I've never changed a Honda ATF filter, but done a bazillion spill-and-fills.
You can pull the drain plug and clean the big magnet on the end, but after the 1st time I just MityVac the fluid out the dipstick tube, and pull the drain plug every 2nd or 3rd service. It's usually pretty clean.

 

[Carlostrece]

I've never changed a Honda ATF filter, but done a bazillion spill-and-fills.
You can pull the drain plug and clean the big magnet on the end, but after the 1st time I just MityVac the fluid out the dipstick tube, and pull the drain plug every 2nd or 3rd service. It's usually pretty clean.

If you've never changed the inline ATF filter, it's probably way overdue to be changed. @Sequoiasoon knows more about ATF inline filter than I do. See posts 96, 102, 104, 106 about it.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

What brand is your transmission drain plug?

I'd like to install a Magnefine inline filter in ATF cooling line of 03 Honda CR-V and my 97 Buick Park Ave.

What size Magnafine inline transmission filter for:
03 Honda CR-V
97 Buick Park Ave

I can figure out which size for each car, but you might already know. No harm in asking.

Amazon Magnefine prices are excellent, especially compared to Filtermag prices, IMO.

Magnefine 5/16" Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter
Magnefine 1/2" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter
Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter

3/8" is what I put on my Honda's. I posted measurements on Piloteers (under same name) for another member wondering if barbs were too small etc. (they are almost the same).

 

[Glenda W.]

Many transmission shops think 1 spill & fill is enough. I think 1 is enough.

My preferred local trans shop gave my Buick 2 spill & fills. They think 2 is ideal. I think 2 is ideal.

I don't think 3 is necessary, but if you're doing it yourself (free labor) then maybe 3 makes sense.

In my experience if you’re keeping up with spill and fills every 25-30k 1 is usually enough. But I’ve seen some nasty fluid before that took 3. Obviously a full fluid exchange is best with the proper machine. Never use flush solvents or additives IMO, which is a common dealership/independent up sell that uses who knows which fluid….

 

[Sequoiasoon]

In my experience if you’re keeping up with spill and fills every 25-30k 1 is usually enough. But I’ve seen some nasty fluid before that took 3. Obviously a full fluid exchange is best with the proper machine. Never use flush solvents or additives IMO, which is a common dealership/independent up sell that uses who knows which fluid….

Somebody had the detailed write up and pictures for Sequoia way back on Tundra solutions using the tranny cooler lines. Bucket with lines for qty measured out. Put line into bucket, start the vehicle, pump out 3-4 qts, shut it off. Fill up 3-4 qts and repeat. The BG Fluid exchange machine did basically that, not pumping/flush. You would add 12qts to machine, one line went to return (to refill tranny) other line to waste container, start the truck and all done pretty quickly. Some guys did that with extra bucket fittings etc.

Toyota T-IV wasn't too expensive, only matching (recommended/approved) probably not certified was Mobil I think 3309. Supposedly they made the T-IV back then sort of like the Idemitsu thing. The Mobil was full syn from what I recall, not sure if T-IV was.

After that I had dealer do some fluid changes and one time they added BG ATC+ which totally ruined the shifting feel (like slipping). I didn't request that but they did it as part of the service. Multiple arguments with dealer service manager about it's not right, Master tech went for ride said normal, all sorts of deny anything wrong. My answer was so it was "not" normal from factory for first maybe 40-50k as it didn't do this. Hauling a trailer, up hill, 5-6 people in vehicle I want to know it shifted gears. Not harsh, just positive engagement, not slipping slow rev hang.

I contacted BG and explained what I was feeling. They confirmed everything I said is what the ATC+ is supposed to do, softer less harsh shifts etc. They sent me an email with the details. I went to head service manager with it. He read it, called advisor and mechanic in, confirmed my complaints and their responses with them with his door open. He walked out asked for my keys and said if I don't mind please stand in the shop and watch the mechanic pour the 14qts of new T-IV into machine and do the exchange again with no additives. Please come back next week and the week after and he will do that again. He apologized for the inconvenience and shut the door with advisor still in there. I never had an issue after that with any requests, TSB's etc. Same service advisor, probably hated me but was at least was pleasant and cooperative to me.