Maxlife 10w-30 4050 miles 99 Camry V6

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My comments:
Oil is mix of 4qt Maxlife blend and 1 qt Synthetic Maxlife, both 10w-30.
Top off oil: Delvac 15w-40
Additives: ARX,Lubro Moly MoS2
This OCI started in July, after I removed valve covers, manually cleaned out sludge that I could reach. All gaskets were changed out, and I used some silicone liquid gasket to glue new rubber gaskets to covers. That is where silicone came from probably. Also most OCI I had K&N drop in filter.
Oil filters used: 2 ST, 1st was swapped out at 1500 miles and inspected.
Looks like engine chewed up TBN pretty intensive, even there was 2 qt of fresh oil?
What's start up TBN of Maxlife and Delvac?

Comments from Blackstone:
"This Toyota isn't wearing quite as well as we'd hope. Averages show normal wear after about
4,700 miles on the oil, so wear should have read lower. Aluminum usually comes from pistons, iron from
steel parts (shafts and cylinders) and copper is from brass/bronze. Silicon is high, and that might be causing
some of it, so check your air filter. The TBN is fine at 2.9 since 1.0 is considered low. Our suggestion is to
stick with 4,000 miles for now to see if silicon and wear improve. Hopefully they will, and at that point a
longer oil change should be just fine."
Code:


Mine AVG

ALUMINUM 6 3

CHROMIUM 0 0

IRON 24 7

COPPER 7 2

LEAD 3 3

TIN 0 1

MOLYBDENUM 255 64

NICKEL 0 0

MANGANESE 1 0

SILVER 0 0

TITANIUM 1 0

POTASSIUM 0 2

BORON 18 45

SILICON 31 15

SODIUM 206 24

CALCIUM 1823 2070

MAGNESIUM 187 144

PHOSPHORUS 786 706

ZINC 863 826

BARIUM 0 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 63.3 59-65

cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 11.13 9.9-11.9

Flashpoint in °F 395 >375

Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0 0

Water % 0
Insolubles % 0.4
TBN 2.9



bl.JPG
 
My current fill is in my sig. Planning to run it 5000 miles and sample again. To see if silicon drops, and TBN.
I think 6000 miles will be my limit with synthetic.
If oil levels drops, 1qt Durablend 5w-20 will be used, then 5w-20 VWB
 
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MaxLife is around 8.7 TBN starting. So, it ate through at least 5 points on the TBN or in other words about 2/3s of the starting TBN.

This is probably a consequence of sludge removal + open engine gasket replacements. The only way to see trending is to keep getting basic UOA the further you get around from the primary sludge removal process you did.

After this next change. What did you have planned again? Oh yeah, I'll go check the 'your next oil change in pictures' thread again!
grin2.gif
 
You know, I'm not sure now
smile.gif
Depends how cold it will be. I have 5w-30 G-oil, 10w-30 SynPower, 10w-30 PP, 10w-40 Maxfile, 15w-40 Delvac, 5w-20 VWB. couple quarts of old Mobil Clean 5000 10w-40.
My choice for spring would be SynPower or PP, summer Delvac.
All my jugs are 4qt. Car holds 5q. Should I keep adding 1q of MMO? and then add oil when it evaporates? Also I might get myself Christmas present and install double remote filter system. Not Amsoil, just system that holds 2 regular filters, same as I have right now, about 15 different ones
smile.gif

It will fold more oil+better cooling+ better filtration.
 
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^If you get a system like this, get the best filtration rated filters that can spin-on to the contraption, IMO.

Of course, it'd be interesting to simply observe what effect any random combination of the different filters you have will affect insols etc. Hopefully as it trends down, your wear averages will as well. Nothing terrible in this report, simply not ideal.

As you observed, the TBN was starting to drop pretty low for 4,000 miles(probably still could have made 6,000-7,000 tops).

I had my insols blip from .4% ----> .5% (1st UOA to the 2nd), this was with MMO and Rotella T6(5w-40) during this spring(April/May, short 2,750 OCI). The idea was to generate cleanup.

Now, my 3rd UOA right after the 'clean up', the insols dropped to .03% so I was happy there. This was with the use of an Amsoil filter.

LINK

The idea I have is that to remove deposits/varnish(not just discoloration)/etc, should help with extended OCIs as there is less acidity(lower TAN) for the oil's basestock/additives to neutralize, thus TBN depletion should get better now for my app.

Next up, I'm running Pennzoil Ultra + a Royal Purple 10-2808, so any more cleaning to be done will get knocked out for good with another high-end filter to hopefully catch anything. (Total cost after deals was $13 for filter and 5 quart jug of Ultra)...

For your app, I would use MMO during this winter fill with 10w-40 MaxLife(since you are o a regimen of Val ML already) + 1 quart of MMO, then top-off with VWB 5w-20 initially, then G-oil if you need to top off more or run out of 5w-20. I think that should work for the winter fill to come.

I like the idea of PP this spring. Save the SynPower for next fall. Delvac in the summer with G-oil to top-off with(Mobil Clean for top-offs in summer).

banana2.gif
 
I have 2 gallons of 5w-20 VWB and Delvac:) I can do little different way, just forget about dino oil and run PP first(4 gallons) with dino top offs 10w/15w-40 warm periods of year, 5w-20 for winter and sub 1qt for MMO in winters.Then 4 Gallons of SynPower same way.
PP will clean by itself + MMO to help during winter.
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim


For your app, I would use MMO during this winter fill with 10w-40 MaxLife(since you are o a regimen of Val ML already) + 1 quart of MMO, then top-off with VWB 5w-20 initially, then G-oil if you need to top off more or run out of 5w-20. I think that should work for the winter fill to come.

banana2.gif


My current fill is only 300 miles, so I'm set till March. + Don't want to mix Kreen(already in sump) and MMO.
For next winter I'll probably run G-oil again (I have ! more jug in stash, and might get more with $20 rebate). Jug of Maxlife 10w-40( may stick it to summer/fall change).
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
All my jugs are 4qt. Car holds 5q. Should I keep adding 1q of MMO? and then add oil when it evaporates
Not a bad idea, and that's what I'm going to be doing. MMO will help the motor oil flowability during the cold winter months.....as the MMO (or Motor Oil) evaporates, then top off with regular motor oil.

Just keep an eye on the oil level at least every other fill up...I've found at about the 500-1000 mile range, with MMO in the sump, my oil level will "drop"......so curiosity set in...this LAST OCI? Just used regular "Mopar Bulk 5W-30" LOL....guess what? No consumption until about 3-4k :p

No, I don't have leaks (obviously....since the bulk oil is doing fine...) but I think the "volatility" (flashpoint...?) of the MMO, and it being a "gasoline additive" and all, I have a feeling it "seeps" past the rings or something, and slowly burns off during it's "cleaning" process.


When I posted the concern to the MMO forums, they didn't really give any input, but that's my "idea" and thought anyways, since it is a light-weight oil and all, it's totally possible it's seeping past the rings a bit in the up-stroke, and burning off....?

But yea, like I said, no leaks at all.
 
I used to check oil every 3-4 days, since car used to "drink" like 1qt in 300 miles before serious clean ups. Now I check it every fill up(ones in 2 weeks) And added just a little oil (around 0.25qt) in like 4-5 gas fillups ago.
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
You know, I'm not sure now
smile.gif
Depends how cold it will be. I have 5w-30 G-oil, 10w-30 SynPower, 10w-30 PP, 10w-40 Maxfile, 15w-40 Delvac, 5w-20 VWB. couple quarts of old Mobil Clean 5000 10w-40.
My choice for spring would be SynPower or PP, summer Delvac.
All my jugs are 4qt. Car holds 5q. Should I keep adding 1q of MMO? and then add oil when it evaporates? Also I might get myself Christmas present and install double remote filter system. Not Amsoil, just system that holds 2 regular filters, same as I have right now, about 15 different ones
smile.gif



It will fold more oil+better cooling+ better filtration.


Dude, don't overthink it....IT'S JUST OIL!!!!
cool.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Where's Merkava? He should be all over those Fe numbers! Wait, its not Mobil so he's magically absent
wink.gif



Quote:
Additives: ARX,Lubro Moly MoS2


Quote:
Also most OCI I had K&N drop in filter.


This is not a fair evaluation of MaxLife. The results are skewed by the use of
additives, plus the the high ingestion of silicon by using the K&N air filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Where's Merkava? He should be all over those Fe numbers! Wait, its not Mobil so he's magically absent
wink.gif



Quote:
Additives: ARX,Lubro Moly MoS2


Quote:
Also most OCI I had K&N drop in filter.


This is not a fair evaluation of MaxLife. The results are skewed by the use of
additives, plus the the high ingestion of silicone by using the K&N air filter.


Of course, that must be it, because you can't possibly get what you would consider a "bad" UOA (which I'm most certain, you would in fact consider this a "bad" UOA and would be otherwise going on about it right now) with 10w30 or Valvoline. So the two together.... It HAS to be something else, it HAS TO BE!!!!!!! *cue screaming*
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
This thread is not about Maxlife, it is more about specific car.


I know. Personally, I think it looks fine. Particularly given the additives used. I'm just giving Merkava a hard time (and am not the only one, LOL) because if this had been Mobil 1 and 5w30 he's be all over it.
 
smile.gif
First oil ever I put in into this car was M1 5w-30.(Around a year ago) I guess it started cleaning, and It was the cause it started smoking. I wasn't when I was inspecting and test driving car. That's how I started to worry and found BITOG
smile.gif
 
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It recently came up in my head. I think I know why Iron is elevated.
I cut out a baffle from valve cover with Dremel before this fill
smile.gif
That's where Iron is from.
 
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