manual not going smooth into 1rst

[Hirev]

There seems to be many complaints on other boards about the hydraulic slave cylinder on these Rangers. The hyd clutch cylinder can be a real pain to bleed properly on many vehicles. Some of them you need to back bleed.

Not sure what set up the ranger has. But years ago I had a Toyota with 160K on it the got kind of iffy on shifting sorta inconsistent especially in lower gears. I pulled the shifter out to check linkage set up. There was some sort of plastic bushing to locate things. It was disintegrated. Replaced it with a new $14.00 part and it worked like new again.

Also when the clutch was replaced did they replace the pilot bushing? A bad pilot bushing and also cause problems such as you descried.

 

[mechtech]

Your first gear has synchros, for sure.
Make sure your motor mounts are in good shape, as well as any shifter bushings and linkage problems.
See if you can adjust your pedal for a hair more travel, then set the freeplay in the pushrod to zero.
Bleed the system.
Try Pennzoil Synchromesh or Specialty Formulations products- they help the synchros grab nicely, and have great protection.
You may have internal transmission problems at those miles, however. These things are well worth a shot, before going the rebuild route.

 

[Drew99GT]

quote:

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Originally posted by BlazerLT:
First gear doesn't have any syncros.

It is a straight cut gear that will only go in at really low speeds.

NEVER force a transmission into first.

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Whether it's straightcut of helical matters not one iota as the actual "gears" that provide the various ratios inside a manual trans are ALWAYS meshed together. When you "change" gears, all your doing is locking a dogbone gear to one of the constant mesh gears on the output shaft.

I don't know about the ranger but pretty much all cars have a synchro for 1st (shared with 2nd gear depending on the trans); I can shift into 1st at anything below about 25 mph when the trans is warm. NO WAY that's happening without a syncho or double clutching.

Sounds like lack of complete clutch disengagement. Try adjusting the master cylinder push rod on the clutch pedal as mechtech indocated. In fact, I had a similar issue with my car and mechtech helped me out with the pedal adjustment (or getting me over my worry of preloading it!!) Is there a lot of slack in the pedal???

 

[Drew99GT]

I apologize for the thread hijack but here is the best explanation of how a manual trans works. I didn't have a CLUE before finding this article and it really helps to know the workings, especially when you have problems!

 

[mcrn]

ok thanks again to all. Toocrazy and others that have recommended Pennzoil synchromesh, do you think this fluid would be better in my situation than the amsoil mtf that I have in there now? And also toocrazy yes I am almost positive that they did replace the pressure plate. Now to others I will try and bleed the system next week. And mechtech I was told to look at some of this clutch pedal problems along with the fork but I am unfamiliar with all this and I am going by the haynes manual which mentions nothing about this. So do you have a link or some info so I could look into this myself? It does not sound hard and I love trying to fix things myself. thanks again to all!

 

[TallPaul]

Last non-syncro first gear car I ever drove was a '63 Chevy Biscayne. I think all first gears are syncronized since probably the 70s. Reverse may be non-syncro, though.

 

[Gary Allan]

Some 70's Chevy II's (and I assume other models) had true GM 3 speeds w/non-synch 1st. Others had Ford (toploader) or Muncie (side loader) - IIRC (always in question)

 

[mechtech]

Under the dash, where the clutch pedal is, are your adjustments [at the top of it].
Even without a manual, a careful perusal and commmon sense will reveal plenty.
You should only need a couple of wrenches of small sizes.
Look for an upper stop to the pedal, and unscrew it a turn or so. Then, the little connecting pushrod should be adjusted for zero play [it will have a little locknut].
Aw, c'mon... go buy a $12.00 manual!

 

[TallPaul]

My '77 F150 with mechanical clutch linkage had the under dash adjustments, but IIRC, neither of my hydraulic clutch F150s ('84 and 95) had any under dash adjustment. Other vehicles may though. Worth a look. Also could be some worn parts under the dash that are not helping.

 

[ITSMR2U]

After you get the clutch fixed, I'd try an ounce of Ford friction modifier additive with the ATF. It was recommended for my Contour's Getrag transmission, and I used Mobil 1 ATF.

 

[mcrn]

Mechtech I do have a $12 manual but its a Haynes it shows nothing about the linkage however I have been told that Chilton is much better. Its just that everywhere around here only carries Haynes manuals. I will look online. Thanks Mechtech for telling me how to make the adjustment and thanks to everyone else! Oh ITSMRTU I had tried dino ATF with a friction modifier and it was better than just ATF but not that good however it was not Ford friction modifier? thanks again

 

[Tempest]

mcrn: Overall how do you like the MTF in your transmission? I know you said the shifting was slightly better, but was there less vibration, etc. I have a 99' Ranger with (probably) the same trans and was thinking about going to the MTF.

I have a Chilton manual at home and will try and look up what it says about the linkage.

 

[mcrn]

Hey Tempest, thank you and yes overall it is a very good fluid. My trans is quieter, especially on the highway. It was smoother than the ATF with friction modifier. A friend of mine also put it in his jeep wrangler and it was much smoother than the factory fluid which was also supposed to be synthetic and I think jeeps factory fluid is pretty much Pennzoil synchromesh if im not mistaken. Anything else about it you want to know just ask and thanks again. Where did you get your Chiltons manual?

 

[Tempest]

Thanks for the info. I've got Amsoil ATF in there right now, but after 30K or so I think I might go to the MTF.

I bought my Chiltons a few years ago so I'm not sure exactly where I got it. I would guess Auto Zone as that was the closest parts store to me at that time.

 

[OriginHacker21]

I have the Getrag 5spd manual transmission in my 04 Sunfire. I have Amsoil's ATF in there - and have had it in there from 30,000 to 57,000 - just purchased some MTF and will put it in next week. It is thicker so I hope the shifts will be smoother.

I want to second what others said earlier - my manual transmission will NOT let me go into 1st gear unless I am going really slow. Even then - it complains and tries to prevent me from going into first. Switching to Amsoil's ATF made 1st gear shifting much easier.

 

[dkcase]

quote:

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Originally posted by TallPaul:
Last non-syncro first gear car I ever drove was a '63 Chevy Biscayne. I think all first gears are syncronized since probably the 70s. Reverse may be non-syncro, though.

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I had a 63 Chevy BelAir... I wish I still had it. I like three-on-the-tree.

I know for sure that Ford started a synchro 1st gear on the full-size models in '66. My uncle had one around that was a new model in the fleet where he worked.

When I had a 3-spd '67 Toyota Landcruiser, a friend of mine could double-clutch it into 1st gear without a snicker of clash - ever. He had learned by driving a hospital bus in Vietnam. I never did get anywhere near as good as him.

 

[mcrn]

ok another observation I have made is if im setting at a red light ( which is where my problems are) and I leave my the clutch pressed for a little longer there are much fewer problems. Ok I hope that might help someone help me thanks again!