Manual Belt Tensioners - Mitsubishi Galant

[Merkava_4]

My next door neighbor has a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant with some kind of a 16 valve 4cyl. engine. When he first starts it up, there's the typical loud squeal of a drive belt slipping on a pulley.

Why do I care? Because I can be sitting in my living room with all the windows and doors shut in the house and the sound will cut right through the walls. It's down right painful.

One belt goes around the crank pulley, alternator, water pump, compressor. The other belt goes around the crank pulley and power steering pump. They both have the screw type manual tensioners; no serpentine automatic tensioner.

Do I need to loosen one of the bracket bolts before I start cranking on the screw tensioner?

I appreciate any help you guys can give me. I'm not getting payed for this; I just want the peace and quiet.

 

[alreadygone]

That type tensioner, it's usually the center bolt of the tensioner pulley itself that hold pulley in position. loosen center bolt before attempting to move pulley in slot with actual adjuster bolt.

bob

 

[Merkava_4]

Thanks alreadygone,

I've got the belt tightened up, but now the car acts like it's got a bad battery; it runs for about 10 minutes and dies after being jumped. Do you think I got the belt too tight and killed the alternator?

 

[artificialist]

I have seen very few alternators die because of the manual belt tensioner. Take the car to a local parts store, and have the battery and alternator load tested.

 

[Donald]

If yo have a DVM (volt meter) just measure voltage across battery (fully charged) with engine off and engine on. Should be roughly 12.5V with engine off and 14V with engine on. I suggest you use an AC charger to fully charge the battery. Your alternator should never be used to charge a dead battery.

 

[artificialist]

That battery may show 12.6 open circuit volts, but if it isn't load tested, you will not know how much current the battery can handle when accessories are turned on.

If the load test shows that the battery has half of its original CCA, it must be replaced immediately.

 

[mechtech2]

The belt may squeal because it is loose, because it is worn and hard/glazed, or has anti freeze or oil on it.
Maybe an adjustment will help, and maybe not.

 

[Donald]

The 12.5V an 14V were to basically tell if alt. was working. That was the question, not the battery. I agree if battery is suspect, then it needs to be load tested.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The belt may squeal because it is loose, because it is worn and hard/glazed, or has anti freeze or oil on it.
Maybe an adjustment will help, and maybe not.


The belt squeal was cured with the tightening of the belt, but now I'm afraid I got it too tight and killed the alternator.

Thanks for all the replies guys. If you think of any other tips, please post them.

 

[Silk]

Why did you have to jump start it? Was the battery flat? If so,why?

A flat or disconnected battery on a Mitsy will upset the idle control...they will either stall or rev high.Just drive it and it will come right,although some take a bit of time.

 

[Merkava_4]

The 120A fusible link right before the positive battery cable was popped; I suspect the alternator is not going to charge the battery as long as that fuse is popped. I learned my lesson about working on cars with the battery still hooked up; won't happen again.


Thanks for all your help guys.

 

[Donald]

The car guys have it easy with the belts and alternators. The boats tend to rust pulleys which sands down the belts which makes them fit farther into the V groove and thus looser.

The first thought would be that the belt would remove the rust, but the rust removes the belt. At some point its like a piece of 1/4" rope and breaks.