M1 10W3...Infiniti G35.... 7,333 miles.. need feedback...

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LC works well with any oil but the Amsoil 0w-30 really responds to the LC add to name one aspect of getting a good wear result. Longer drain intervals will bear this out.

With M1, depending on the engine I may have to boost the EP/AW adds + LC, to assist getting the same wear rates. Each engine is a bit different.

Jason; we are seeing a drop in wear rates using LC and POSSIBLY reduced friction, I can't honestly quantify that and describe the cause. Odis says LC solublizes carbon and allows it to act as a micro lubricant. I do know it cuts heat and stabilizes the oil.

The POE , small as it is in the S2000 Amsoil does help too.

If testing of the Castrol GC 0w-30 holds up for longer drains ( 10,000 miles) then that may be a good alternative to both these brands.

I am beginning to respect that formulation as a Synergyn knock off.
 
quote:

With M1, depending on the engine I may have to boost the EP/AW adds + LC, to assist getting the same wear rates. Each engine is a bit different

I received my answer.
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[ April 02, 2004, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
Well silent06 did mention somewhere else that he went to LC on that run...wonder if he did anything else? Didn't think LC would help lead/bearing wear. If the sum of his improvements were solely from LC, all I have to say is
gr_eek2.gif
 
although I rarely rev to the redline (6500rpm),

Might be your problem. In actuality, on public roads, there's not that many opportunities to redline a G35. As a VQ30 owner, I suggest you take advantage of these opportunities on a regular basis.
 
The feedback on this post has certainly been one of the more interesting I've received. Thanks a lot all. But A few questions:

What's LC, it's costs and the specific benefits to be derived from its usage?

I just read in my owner's manual that 10W40 is also recommended for my climate. Would anyone recommend using this viscousity, and if so, what high grade OTC oils would you recommend?

"ACEA A3/B4 rated" ... Are oils with this rating easily available OTC? I don't mind running to the auto stores to read oil bottle labels, but the problem is that I could never leave those places without making a purchase... it'll be expensive research.

Again, thanks everyone, I've really enjoyed your feedback and comments.
 
Buster,

The engine you cited is still breaking in - those results aren't applicable to this discussion. You have to compare engines with similar number of total engine miles. For example, lead wear in my Tacoma continued to drop for the first 50,000 miles before it stabilized ....

Use the Series 2000, without the LC - you won't need it to get outstanding results ....

Even if you consider "dealer cost" to be the true market value of Amsoil, the Series 2000/3000 lubes are still $7.00/qt, including shipping. There is NO way you can match that performance - or the performance of Redline for that matter - for $4.75 to $5.00 per quart.

"You get what you pay for" - that's true about lubricants as it is any other manufactured product ...

Tooslick
 
IMHO, I don't think any G35 owner drives their car gently. The grill may have an Infiniti logo but the car has the heart of a 350z. My car is my mistress. I wine and dine her with (what I consider) the best oil/additives, gas, filters and a regular maintainance schedule, with the underlying thought she better put out on the freeway/bedroom. For me, there is no comprise between performance and long engine life. I must have both!!!


Chinee,

Listen to the advice of Terry and TS. Terry is a mad scientist in regards to engine performance. TooSlick has an infinite knowledge of engine oils.

If TS recommends ACEA A3/B4 rated, Castrol 0w-30 or Mobil 1R 0w-30, I would use it. I prefer to use Amsoil 0w-30 because its provides an excellent additive package, lower engine operating temperatures, increased fuel efficiency and better cold start protection. This information has been stated by Too Slick on numerous post. In my 64 mile roundtrip daily commute through construction dust,hot/cold temperatures,stop/go,and WOT, I feel my G needs an oil of this nature.

However, I think Lube Control fortifies and significantly aids the Amsoil chemistry and can do the same for any oil of your choosing. Lube Control's benefits are evident in my last UOA.

I also would suggest the addition of FP. As Terry says, this stuff is rocket fuel. I couldn't believe my car gained MPG in my daily commute upon my initial dosage of FP. In addition, my car now maintains peak fuel efficiency at higher speeds.

On your next Blackstone UOA, get the Dyson analysis package. It's an extra 15 bucks and includes a free TBN. This way Terry can fine tune your engine's oil for your local environment and driving characteristics!!!
 
s06,

Thanks for the response. I will spring for the Dyson package next time around and consider switching to S2000. What OCI are you utilizing? I would like to extend my interval to 15K or more with the S2000; if I do 5K analyses, it should prove interesting.

Oh... and what's FP?
 
Chinee,

I'm going 10,000 miles on this OCI. I would have gone 10k on my last OCI, but the dealership changed the oil by mistake!!! Have had a few isolated problems with this dealership, so I'm going to take Eagle1's advice and try a Nissan dearlership closer to my residence for future service.

I was kind of nervous about going 10k on the first OCI w/ LC, but I trust Terry's infinite knowledge. Terry has also complemented Nissan many times on how well the engine is constructed and sealed. So, I don't think 15,000 would be a problem. However, contact Terry by PM or email and seek his expert advice!

If you want to go 15k, I would definitely throw LC/FP in the mix. Lube Control can also be added to automatic transmissions and power steering systems to reduce oxidation, thus extending the life of those fluids. In addtion to cleaning your fuel system, Fuel Power could possibly save you a little cash at the gas station.
 
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