Lubricating Calipers ?
- Thread starter Ndx
- Start date
- Status
I use the Permatex synthetic brake caliper/slider lube.. its a thick snotty green. Seems to work well thus far. Done a few brake jobs with it. I trust Permatex stuff.
As for cleaning.. Slider pins obviously. Should get new pad hardware, and clean the hub/disc mating surface, (Wire brush or whatever gets in there best for you) and the inside of the wheel/rim or you can get some strange noises under braking if there's too much crud/grime built up in those areas.
Not much else to it.
As for cleaning.. Slider pins obviously. Should get new pad hardware, and clean the hub/disc mating surface, (Wire brush or whatever gets in there best for you) and the inside of the wheel/rim or you can get some strange noises under braking if there's too much crud/grime built up in those areas.
Not much else to it.
Good question. I would like to know as well because I need to clean the brakes on my bike.
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
I use the Permatex synthetic brake caliper/slider lube.. its a thick snotty green. Seems to work well thus far. Done a few brake jobs with it. I trust Permatex stuff.
As for cleaning.. Slider pins obviously. Should get new pad hardware, and clean the hub/disc mating surface, (Wire brush or whatever gets in there best for you) and the inside of the wheel/rim or you can get some strange noises under braking if there's too much crud/grime built up in those areas.
Not much else to it.
+1.
The permatex stuff is available in single serving packs (like ketchup) at most parts stores. Most pin hardware is Cad plated, but rubbing from brake pads and subsequent clean-up with wire brush (wire wheel is what I use) can abrade the plating. The sticky grease also serves to prevent corrosion upon re-use of that hardware.
I use the Permatex synthetic brake caliper/slider lube.. its a thick snotty green. Seems to work well thus far. Done a few brake jobs with it. I trust Permatex stuff.
As for cleaning.. Slider pins obviously. Should get new pad hardware, and clean the hub/disc mating surface, (Wire brush or whatever gets in there best for you) and the inside of the wheel/rim or you can get some strange noises under braking if there's too much crud/grime built up in those areas.
Not much else to it.
+1.
The permatex stuff is available in single serving packs (like ketchup) at most parts stores. Most pin hardware is Cad plated, but rubbing from brake pads and subsequent clean-up with wire brush (wire wheel is what I use) can abrade the plating. The sticky grease also serves to prevent corrosion upon re-use of that hardware.
We started using the new Permatex purple ceramic grease a while ago.Fantastic stuff,it can be used on any part of the caliper including the internals.
http://www.storeseven.com/browseproducts/24125---Permatex-Ceramic-Extreme-Brake-Parts-Lubricant.HTML
http://www.storeseven.com/browseproducts/24125---Permatex-Ceramic-Extreme-Brake-Parts-Lubricant.HTML
Originally Posted By: Trav
We started using the new Permatex purple ceramic grease a while ago.Fantastic stuff,it can be used on any part of the caliper including the internals.
http://www.storeseven.com/browseproducts/24125---Permatex-Ceramic-Extreme-Brake-Parts-Lubricant.HTML
looks like a good product I hope that It is available in Canada
We started using the new Permatex purple ceramic grease a while ago.Fantastic stuff,it can be used on any part of the caliper including the internals.
http://www.storeseven.com/browseproducts/24125---Permatex-Ceramic-Extreme-Brake-Parts-Lubricant.HTML
looks like a good product I hope that It is available in Canada
CRC makes a great synthetic brake grease that I like. The permatex product is very similar to the CRC, so I use whichever I have at the time.
The permatex purple is very muchly available in canada.
I use it as rubber grease, and it works amazingly well, seems to resist washout/drying out very very well. I rebuilt the master cylinder and coated all the rubber bits with it. No leaks, and the rubber is probably far happier than being bathed in brake fluid all day. The old rubbers were rather swollen, and after getting bathed in non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then being left to dry, shrank back down and were almost nicer than the new ones.
I also have some silicone stuff, it's more expensive, and it's in my opinion not any better. Less of an tempature range, can't go in as many places, but it may be more water resistant.
Long windedness aside: Purple Permatex is basically the best you can get.
I use it as rubber grease, and it works amazingly well, seems to resist washout/drying out very very well. I rebuilt the master cylinder and coated all the rubber bits with it. No leaks, and the rubber is probably far happier than being bathed in brake fluid all day. The old rubbers were rather swollen, and after getting bathed in non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then being left to dry, shrank back down and were almost nicer than the new ones.
I also have some silicone stuff, it's more expensive, and it's in my opinion not any better. Less of an tempature range, can't go in as many places, but it may be more water resistant.
Long windedness aside: Purple Permatex is basically the best you can get.
Originally Posted By: gamefoo21
The permatex purple is very muchly available in canada.
Where, where, where?
I'm tired of looking at all of our parts and DIY stores just to find them always filled with lowest common denominator products and the good stuff is only available across the border...
The permatex purple is very muchly available in canada.
Where, where, where?
I'm tired of looking at all of our parts and DIY stores just to find them always filled with lowest common denominator products and the good stuff is only available across the border...
I think for external rubber parts any high temperature grease would work. I use nothing but Sil-Glyde.
Good wheel bearing grease is better than dry, and will last a long time and work well. Especially on metal to metal.
But dedicated brake grease is best. Very water resistant and great for rubber parts.
Normal wheel bearing grease can swell rubber parts sometimes.
But dedicated brake grease is best. Very water resistant and great for rubber parts.
Normal wheel bearing grease can swell rubber parts sometimes.
I haven't seen the ceramic grease but CT has Prematex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, in 2oz tubes, and is excellent stuff, and while the ceramic version may be better, there is certainly no need for it, the regular one does the job just fine and you don't have to hount for it, IMO.
Last edited:
Silglide is the usual stuff.
I have used everything you can think of from just plain moly EP grease to syn-slide, to nickel based anti-seize and brake specific products. I have not seen where it made any difference at all what I used. I have found that nickel anti-seize has worked about the best for me in spite of what many online and what AutoZone tells people!Most mechanics I have worked with use nickel anti-seize because they have it on hand and in spite what what has been said it always seems to work in the field just great!I have never had nickel anti sieve migrate out or get washed out if the seals where in decent shape.
So I do not think it matters much as long as you use something that is going to stay put and is resistant to wash out you should be just fine!
So I do not think it matters much as long as you use something that is going to stay put and is resistant to wash out you should be just fine!
same here. I usually use anti-seize on the slides and anti-seize on the face of the hub flange so the rotors don't stick to them later on. makes it easier to get them off in the future. Matter of fact, the couple of bottles of anti-seize I have lying around here both say they can be used on brakes. I've used it to lube the contact spots on the rear shoes on drum brakes also, as well as lubing the self adjusters.
BMW slides (my current concern) are specifically kept dry and unlubricated and are discs all around. Tiny dobs of paste are applied to the ears of the pads and the edge of the piston and that's about it.
BMW OE stuff is clear-yellow and feels a little odd - not quite like I would expect grease to feel. It also doesn't harden, dry or get tacky (unlike the squeal-stop products).
When shopping for brake "lubricants" these two classes of greases seem to be mixed interchangeably by helpful Internet folks, manufacturers, DIY instructions, and store clerks. I don't know exactly how people think that super high-temp grease (essentially) is going to work or act the same as that squeal-stop jelly that sets up and is meant to be applied to the entire rear surface of pads, yet most people don't know the difference. When grilled, they simply don't know.
I'm looking for top quality alternatives to the OE BMW stuff as my source for small quantities may have dried up (no pun intended) and I have a couple of BMW brake jobs coming this fall. Everything I see in local stores is generic junk which is unclear from the instructions which of the two kinds of material it is, but states it will be excellent at stopping squeal.
BMW OE stuff is clear-yellow and feels a little odd - not quite like I would expect grease to feel. It also doesn't harden, dry or get tacky (unlike the squeal-stop products).
When shopping for brake "lubricants" these two classes of greases seem to be mixed interchangeably by helpful Internet folks, manufacturers, DIY instructions, and store clerks. I don't know exactly how people think that super high-temp grease (essentially) is going to work or act the same as that squeal-stop jelly that sets up and is meant to be applied to the entire rear surface of pads, yet most people don't know the difference. When grilled, they simply don't know.
I'm looking for top quality alternatives to the OE BMW stuff as my source for small quantities may have dried up (no pun intended) and I have a couple of BMW brake jobs coming this fall. Everything I see in local stores is generic junk which is unclear from the instructions which of the two kinds of material it is, but states it will be excellent at stopping squeal.
Anti seize is not a lube. It does not do well with water wash off - it is not meant to be exposed. It does not lube rubber to metal [some caliper pins are metal to rubber].
It is better than dry, I suppose.
It is better than dry, I suppose.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Anti seize is not a lube. It does not do well with water wash off - it is not meant to be exposed. It does not lube rubber to metal [some caliper pins are metal to rubber].
It is better than dry, I suppose.
Exactly.
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
BMW slides (my current concern) are specifically kept dry and unlubricated and are discs all around. Tiny dobs of paste are applied to the ears of the pads and the edge of the piston and that's about it.
BMW OE stuff is clear-yellow and feels a little odd - not quite like I would expect grease to feel. It also doesn't harden, dry or get tacky (unlike the squeal-stop products).
When shopping for brake "lubricants" these two classes of greases seem to be mixed interchangeably by helpful Internet folks, manufacturers, DIY instructions, and store clerks. I don't know exactly how people think that super high-temp grease (essentially) is going to work or act the same as that squeal-stop jelly that sets up and is meant to be applied to the entire rear surface of pads, yet most people don't know the difference. When grilled, they simply don't know.
I'm looking for top quality alternatives to the OE BMW stuff as my source for small quantities may have dried up (no pun intended) and I have a couple of BMW brake jobs coming this fall. Everything I see in local stores is generic junk which is unclear from the instructions which of the two kinds of material it is, but states it will be excellent at stopping squeal.
I don't know why BMW want them to be dry but I'm not going to argue with them.
Apparently they feel they effectively can keep any moisture out and the dry part may have less drag,who knows.The grease on the ears also helps to prevent that clack clack noise common on BMW,the Permatex green,ceramic and Plastilube(i believe plastilube is closest to OEM) work well in this application.
The greases,sprays and latex membrane type compounds applied to the back of the pads are all trying to reduce the high frequency vibration that can cause squeal in one way or another.
All are attempting to cure the symptom not the cause.Most pads have some sort of dampening device fitted to the rear of the pads from the manufacturer and should be adequate.
The main causes for high frequency vibrations are..
Loose fitting parts,e.g. using old weak retainers,worn pins or slides.Rusted piston face where it contacts the pad if severe.For this reason sanding down old pins when rusty or using old hardware is not recommended.
Basically anything that is not firm or has unwanted movement can cause these vibrations
Incorrect rotor finish,15 to 80 microinches is ok.The smoother the better,the use of rounded cutting tools is claimed to give a smoother finish when turning rotors and drums.
Pad material also can also play a role.Semi metallics and some of the exotics seem to be the worst offenders (i used a set of carbon/kevlar on my CBR 1100 years ago that squealed like a parrot with its foot caught) when it comes to noise,ceramic and organics the least.
Pads not correctly broken in and have glazed,contaminated pads.
Anti seize is not a lube. It does not do well with water wash off - it is not meant to be exposed. It does not lube rubber to metal [some caliper pins are metal to rubber].
It is better than dry, I suppose.
Exactly.
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
BMW slides (my current concern) are specifically kept dry and unlubricated and are discs all around. Tiny dobs of paste are applied to the ears of the pads and the edge of the piston and that's about it.
BMW OE stuff is clear-yellow and feels a little odd - not quite like I would expect grease to feel. It also doesn't harden, dry or get tacky (unlike the squeal-stop products).
When shopping for brake "lubricants" these two classes of greases seem to be mixed interchangeably by helpful Internet folks, manufacturers, DIY instructions, and store clerks. I don't know exactly how people think that super high-temp grease (essentially) is going to work or act the same as that squeal-stop jelly that sets up and is meant to be applied to the entire rear surface of pads, yet most people don't know the difference. When grilled, they simply don't know.
I'm looking for top quality alternatives to the OE BMW stuff as my source for small quantities may have dried up (no pun intended) and I have a couple of BMW brake jobs coming this fall. Everything I see in local stores is generic junk which is unclear from the instructions which of the two kinds of material it is, but states it will be excellent at stopping squeal.
I don't know why BMW want them to be dry but I'm not going to argue with them.
Apparently they feel they effectively can keep any moisture out and the dry part may have less drag,who knows.The grease on the ears also helps to prevent that clack clack noise common on BMW,the Permatex green,ceramic and Plastilube(i believe plastilube is closest to OEM) work well in this application.
The greases,sprays and latex membrane type compounds applied to the back of the pads are all trying to reduce the high frequency vibration that can cause squeal in one way or another.
All are attempting to cure the symptom not the cause.Most pads have some sort of dampening device fitted to the rear of the pads from the manufacturer and should be adequate.
The main causes for high frequency vibrations are..
Loose fitting parts,e.g. using old weak retainers,worn pins or slides.Rusted piston face where it contacts the pad if severe.For this reason sanding down old pins when rusty or using old hardware is not recommended.
Basically anything that is not firm or has unwanted movement can cause these vibrations
Incorrect rotor finish,15 to 80 microinches is ok.The smoother the better,the use of rounded cutting tools is claimed to give a smoother finish when turning rotors and drums.
Pad material also can also play a role.Semi metallics and some of the exotics seem to be the worst offenders (i used a set of carbon/kevlar on my CBR 1100 years ago that squealed like a parrot with its foot caught) when it comes to noise,ceramic and organics the least.
Pads not correctly broken in and have glazed,contaminated pads.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't know why BMW want them to be dry but I'm not going to argue with them.
Apparently they feel they effectively can keep any moisture out and the dry part may have less drag,who knows.The grease on the ears also helps to prevent that clack clack noise common on BMW,the Permatex green,ceramic and Plastilube(i believe plastilube is closest to OEM) work well in this application.
They have rubber/plastic pin guides and slides which do not corrode. I did the second front brake job my Toronto-area (ie. salt) daily driver has had in 11 years last fall and other than a thin coating of baked-on brake dust goo they were clean. If a typical petroleum-based lube is used, it will degrade or swell the pin guides and cause all kinds of problems so they are to be left dry. I replaced the pin guides for a whopping couple of dollars just to make sure everything was tight after 11 years.
Thanks for a couple of "close to OEM" recommendations.
Quote:
The greases,sprays and latex membrane type compounds applied to the back of the pads are all trying to reduce the high frequency vibration that can cause squeal in one way or another.
All are attempting to cure the symptom not the cause.Most pads have some sort of dampening device fitted to the rear of the pads from the manufacturer and should be adequate.
I agree completely. All OE pads come with shims and I simply haven't had any problems with squeak. Once in a while it'll go through a phase where I'll get light squeak from one wheel at a particular speed and brake pressure for a week or two then it goes away. It never bothers me and it's very light.
My chief complaint was that so many people, including professionals and those who make the product, don't differentiate between the two kinds of products so I'm sure I'm getting a grease/lube product instead of a sticky coating product before I've purchased it and used it incorrectly.
I don't know why BMW want them to be dry but I'm not going to argue with them.
Apparently they feel they effectively can keep any moisture out and the dry part may have less drag,who knows.The grease on the ears also helps to prevent that clack clack noise common on BMW,the Permatex green,ceramic and Plastilube(i believe plastilube is closest to OEM) work well in this application.
They have rubber/plastic pin guides and slides which do not corrode. I did the second front brake job my Toronto-area (ie. salt) daily driver has had in 11 years last fall and other than a thin coating of baked-on brake dust goo they were clean. If a typical petroleum-based lube is used, it will degrade or swell the pin guides and cause all kinds of problems so they are to be left dry. I replaced the pin guides for a whopping couple of dollars just to make sure everything was tight after 11 years.
Thanks for a couple of "close to OEM" recommendations.
Quote:
The greases,sprays and latex membrane type compounds applied to the back of the pads are all trying to reduce the high frequency vibration that can cause squeal in one way or another.
All are attempting to cure the symptom not the cause.Most pads have some sort of dampening device fitted to the rear of the pads from the manufacturer and should be adequate.
I agree completely. All OE pads come with shims and I simply haven't had any problems with squeak. Once in a while it'll go through a phase where I'll get light squeak from one wheel at a particular speed and brake pressure for a week or two then it goes away. It never bothers me and it's very light.
My chief complaint was that so many people, including professionals and those who make the product, don't differentiate between the two kinds of products so I'm sure I'm getting a grease/lube product instead of a sticky coating product before I've purchased it and used it incorrectly.
Craig i found this maybe its helpful.
Bulletin 34 01 01 (656) dated 01/2001 says not to use Never Seez Compound on M3, M5, M coupe, M roadster and Z8. They say that it has an unfavorable influence on the corrosion characteristics of the black brake caliper surface. They go on to say to use Plastilube.
Bulletin 34 01 01 (656) dated 01/2001 says not to use Never Seez Compound on M3, M5, M coupe, M roadster and Z8. They say that it has an unfavorable influence on the corrosion characteristics of the black brake caliper surface. They go on to say to use Plastilube.
- Status
Similar threads
