I just saw the low 'volts' indication on the dash of an 96 Chev Lumina with 64k on it. I have just had a new AZ Duralast Yellow Top battery installed within the last 1000 miles. It seems to have held a charge. I haven't had to recharge it. What should I check before I go to AZ or Advance Auto and buy a reman. alternator? I do have a digital VOM. Any pref. on what is the best reman. alternator to buy?
Low 'Volts' light on 96 Lumina
- Thread starter Jim Spahr
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AZ and other parts stores can test your alternator for you before you buy a new one. If the alternator is OK, they can scan the PCM for fault codes. Hopefully that will point out the problem. You should have about 14 volts across the battery terminals with the engine running, a little less with the engine off and cold. This is not much help I know, but maybe it will help you.
Put your DVOM on the battery terminals when the engine is on, the A/C is set to max, and the high beams are on. The voltage should be between 13.5 and 15 volts.
As for the best reman alternator, I never heard anything bad about ones that come from NAPA.
That in mind, I never see much life from older ACdelco alternator designs.
As for the best reman alternator, I never heard anything bad about ones that come from NAPA.
That in mind, I never see much life from older ACdelco alternator designs.
+1 on Napa reman parts.
I always buy what I call "hard parts" like alternators, starters, AC compressors, water pumps, etc from Napa. Not to bash any other retailer or manufacturer, but just in my own personal experience the Napa parts are of a better quality and the service is better too.
I always buy what I call "hard parts" like alternators, starters, AC compressors, water pumps, etc from Napa. Not to bash any other retailer or manufacturer, but just in my own personal experience the Napa parts are of a better quality and the service is better too.
I'd go to a local rebuild should with your old one they can test it better than AZ. They can then tell you if you need a rebuild or maybe they can throw in brushes or something else inexpensive. One gets to be an expert on starters and alternators if thats the only thing you work on all day.
BREAKing news-I tested the battery ( at the terminals) and got the following readings with a digital VOM. Engine off-12.07 VDC, Engine idling, but no load=11.84 VDC, Engine idling, with ac, lights, radio on= 11.52 VDC.....I am the Lumina owner who started this post about the 'Volts' indication light on. Oh, yes, coming back from checking on the price of a new or reman. alt, I heard over the radio a loud electrical interference noise that sounds like a low freq hum that changes with the car speed. Cost of a new alt is 169.99. Cost of a reman. is 139.99 with a core charge. What do you think? Time for a new alt? The serp. belt is not new, but in good servicable condition.
You can have it tested at AZ or an alternator/starter shop, but it sounds to me like the alternator is history. A bench test will tell for certain.
You may want to check the battery connections before anything else. Especially the ground connections.
I would get the new one if it's only $30 more.
Do a final test on the output of ther alt. to ground. Should be close to 14V. Its the largest wire coming from the ait. I agree your alternator is not working as expectected. It should keep up with the load (at fast idle) until its too much to handle. Certainly with lights and fan at fast idle should be close to 14V.
But let me repeat, you could need a minor repair or a new alternator. The people at AZ will never tell you. Go to an alternator rebuild shop. Its a local business. They will tell you the deal and provide you with a better replacement than AZ will at a better price, or fix what you have.
But let me repeat, you could need a minor repair or a new alternator. The people at AZ will never tell you. Go to an alternator rebuild shop. Its a local business. They will tell you the deal and provide you with a better replacement than AZ will at a better price, or fix what you have.
The battery on a FWD lumina is hidden under a metal brace and the reservoir for the w/s washer. It is a pain to get to. They do have a small slot to allow you to probe the terminals with the VOM probes. I am about resigned to go get a new alt. The best deal sounds to me like the Advance Auto Remy alt. which is a GM new alt. 169.99 an I get the fun of replacing it. My RWD 94 Impala SS has an alt that can be in your hands in less than 10 min.s. The Lumina alt is on top but crowded by two steel lines (ATF to radiator?) and genarally buried in the compartment by many other components crammed in. I do prefer the RWD freedom. Any body with a Lumina or new Impala FWD who has some tips on removing the alt?
Originally Posted By: carlprop
I would get the new one if it's only $30 more.
+1
I would get the new one if it's only $30 more.
+1
The only real tip I can offer is make sure you disconnect the battery negative terminal before you start work. I saw some real interesting sparks the other day when I removed my own alternator during the process of replacing my AC compressor.
I have a theory I follow on difficult or unfamiliar repairs: If you take enough screws, nuts and bolts out, it will eventually fall apart.
Other than that, maybe pick up a Haynes Book for your Lumina (if there is one in publication) at Advance when you purchase the replacement alternator. There may even be a Lumina book open on the shelf that you can just read the alternator R&R procedure while in the store. Or maybe the AAP staff will let you open a sealed one yourself. I do not like FWD for exactly the problems you are facing now. Nearly impossible repair procedures in some of them.
Good luck with it Jim.
I have a theory I follow on difficult or unfamiliar repairs: If you take enough screws, nuts and bolts out, it will eventually fall apart.
Other than that, maybe pick up a Haynes Book for your Lumina (if there is one in publication) at Advance when you purchase the replacement alternator. There may even be a Lumina book open on the shelf that you can just read the alternator R&R procedure while in the store. Or maybe the AAP staff will let you open a sealed one yourself. I do not like FWD for exactly the problems you are facing now. Nearly impossible repair procedures in some of them.
Good luck with it Jim.
Check local Library for National Service Data.
They go by year and by mfg.
They go by year and by mfg.
More Breaking news....I went out to crank the Lumina to drive into town 12 miles to pick up the new Remy alt. The battery was dead. I cranked it with the batt. booster I have been carrying and it started and ran fine. I figured the battery was dead because the alt wan't charging properly (duh). It was idling fine so I took a minute to do a 'fast idle' VOM check and it showed Zero volts. The HOwl I had heard on my last trip must have been its death knell-the last gasp from a dying alternator. I quickly got in the car and drove off without AC, radio, lights, and so on. Before I got to the first major highway, I noticed the steering was difficult. The engine had quit. I put the batt. booster on again and it cranked up. I closed the hood enough to see over and strapped the hood down for the 12 mile trip to the Advance Auto. I drove off with the booster providing the elec. power, not knowing if the booster would last that long. It did. I went inside and ordered a brand new Remy alternator and the parts guy brought out a 'Palladin' battery. I said no, that's the wrong one, I wanted a Remy from GM like your computer shows. They double check the parts no. and the PN is correct. No Remy! Is this bait and switch? I know they are going to say- 'same diff. they both have a Ltd. Life time warrenty. But I am the one who has to pull the alt. 3 times to get one to last. I am the one who gets the break down on a June day and its 95*/95%. Jim- cooling down ( car and me) in sweltering SC summer).
Ugh.. I so dislike some parts shops for that reason. Seems to me they were trying to pull a fast one possibly. So, what happened?
Did I read your post correctly? You ordered an alt, and they brought out a battery??!
Did I read your post correctly? You ordered an alt, and they brought out a battery??!
Sorry to hear about that Jim. I know the sweltering heat and humidity of SC all too well. I have family from Blythewood and Charleston. The heat just makes things worse in a situation like this. Maybe another parts store could provide better service. Is it possible to remove the bad alternator and get a friend or neighbor to take you and the dead alternator to a parts store so you only make one trip and R&R the part only one time?
There are times when parts are (somewhat?) legitimately repackaged. Sometimes you'll get a generic box around a genuine Valeo or LUK clutch. Same with brake parts. Hope this works out for you.
Of course I would hate to have it go the other way, generic part under a legit part number.
Also sometimes with rebuilt stuff you'll get a little metal plate brazed on with the rebuilder info... but it's still a GM part underneath... but it's of course up to that rebuilders quality.
Of course I would hate to have it go the other way, generic part under a legit part number.
Also sometimes with rebuilt stuff you'll get a little metal plate brazed on with the rebuilder info... but it's still a GM part underneath... but it's of course up to that rebuilders quality.
Sorry, I meant to say the parts guy broght out a Palliden alterntor, not battery, with the same number as the Remy altenator. I had to take it since I needed an alternator so badly. I was driving on borrowed time....I will take this up later with Advance Auto when I have the alternator working and the car running.
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