Low mileage vehicle - coolant change?

[MilesTeg]

I have a low mileage vehicle. A 2013 Mustang GT with 23k miles. It still has original coolant that still tests as near brand new (pH and cooling ability). The coolant also looks brand new and I have no overheating problems despite running the car pretty hard in hot weather during the summers.

Ford says 100,000 miles change but I am wondering if there is a reason to change the coolant anyway just due to time and despite the testing saying that it's still in very good shape. My knowledge tells me that the pH is the biggest deal because it can lead to engine damage, but the test says the pH is still very good. I use the same test strips in my daily which gives me a control which gives some evidence that the strips do work (the pH of the daily with 3x the miles and tests as significantly more acidic).

All that said, that's not 100% conclusive and there may be other reasons to change coolant based on time not mileage?

 

[someonesomewhere]

I have a low mileage vehicle. A 2013 Mustang GT with 23k miles. It still has original coolant that still tests as near brand new (pH and cooling ability). The coolant also looks brand new and I have no overheating problems despite running the car pretty hard in hot weather during the summers.

Ford says 100,000 miles change but I am wondering if there is a reason to change the coolant anyway just due to time and despite the testing saying that it's still in very good shape. My knowledge tells me that the pH is the biggest deal because it can lead to engine damage, but the test says the pH is still very good. I use the same test strips in my daily which gives me a control which gives some evidence that the strips do work (the pH of the daily with 3x the miles and tests as significantly more acidic).

All that said, that's not 100% conclusive and there may be other reasons to change coolant based on time not mileage?

Loss of lubricity? I always change coolant as part of the 'fresh fluids all around' policy that I employ when I acquire a new used vehicle. If it's original, it's 10 years old. I'd change it, it's not a huge $ project, and you'll have peace of mind that it's good to go.

My opinion. Good luck!

 

[KJSmith]

They usually say 5 years or 100k.
My current truck says 5 years or 150k.

 

[charbaby]

I "try" to stay in the 5 year COOLANT change.
I often base it on the vehicle's build date, not my ownership date(when buying new), and go from there. Meaning for example, I've purchased new vehicles in JAN of a particular year when in fact the vehicle was built in OCT-NOV of the previous year.
When buying a pre-owned vehicle, I "try" to change out every fluid ASAP or there-a-bouts, for my own baseline of everything.
It's just my way of doing things and not gospel nor exclusive, even to me. That's why I said that I "try".

 

[Haakon]

Thats one handy thing about cars that run the water pump from the timing belt - you're forced into new coolant every 4-5 years anyway

 

[MilesTeg]

I forgot to mention that I also do the multimeter test, and it's always only a couple hundredths of a volt so there's no corrosion issue.

 

[Lubener]

I base my coolant changes on time, not mileage. Follow your manual for proper change intervals based on time.

 

[MilesTeg]

Loss of lubricity? I always change coolant as part of the 'fresh fluids all around' policy that I employ when I acquire a new used vehicle. If it's original, it's 10 years old. I'd change it, it's not a huge $ project, and you'll have peace of mind that it's good to go.

My opinion. Good luck!

Yeah, I've been relying on tests because I feel it's important to not be wasteful -- coolant is highly toxic and not always recycled, but it's been 12 years so I'm starting to get nervous my testing regime is somehow flawed, hah.

It's not a new vehicle to me, I'm the original owner so I know it's 12 year old coolant. Sounds like the consensus is I it would be a good idea to do it even though I have no empirical evidence of need.

 

[billt460]

My 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee is 9 years old with the original coolant. It just turned 18,000 miles. As soon as it cools off I'm going to take it in for a coolant drain and flush.

I'll most likely do the same with my 2018 Toyota Camry. It has 16,000 miles. I always come up on the time well before the distance.

 

[joekingcorvette]

I purchased a 2014 Corvette last year with 22,000 actual miles and had the same question. I changed it even though it looked brand new when it was drained. I want to keep it looking good as far as color and I want the peace of mind of knowing it's fresh and like new. It was very easy to drain and fill on the 2014 Corvette. I would change it.

 

[Cujet]

In my search for a replacement for my crashed F150, I am amazed how grody (disgusting) the coolant is on lightly used, near current production vehicles. The clear coolant tank is often coated with nasty deposits. Upon disassembly, or in my case a crash that exposes the 200,000 mile radiator innards, a properly maintained vehicle is clean and perfect.

 

[atikovi]

My knowledge tells me that the pH is the biggest deal because it can lead to engine damage, but the test says the pH is still very good.

How does ph determine the level of additives and if they are depleted or not? Even if somehow they are still adequate, I assume it has the orange coolant now. After 10 years I'd flush and change it now just to take advantage of the superior yellow version.

 

[JHZR2]

Additives in coolant get consumed. Depending upon the chemistry, they also can destabilize. So it’s smart to replenish them.

 

[Donald]

What does the owners manual say? Is this G-05 or Ford Orange.

I would thoroughly flush with water. Drain the block if possible and then go with Ford Yellow.

If you can get the overflow tank out easily, take it out and clean with Dawn and shaking. And soaking and shaking

 

[KrisZ]

For coolant there is mileage and time interval, whichever comes first.

 

[dfarr67]

I'm not saying to change prematurly- but compared to nasty corrosion and parts to replace- whats a couple of $$ for new coolant.

 

[Donald]

Ford Yellow concentrate is $28/gallon on Amazon.

 

[zzyzzx]

How does ph determine the level of additives and if they are depleted or not?

It doesn't. Good ph says almost nothing, it's bad ph that would give a reason to change the coolant.

IMO, if it tests good, I wouldn't change out the coolant.

 

[someonesomewhere]

Yeah, I've been relying on tests because I feel it's important to not be wasteful -- coolant is highly toxic and not always recycled, but it's been 12 years so I'm starting to get nervous my testing regime is somehow flawed, hah.

It's not a new vehicle to me, I'm the original owner so I know it's 12 year old coolant. Sounds like the consensus is I it would be a good idea to do it even though I have no empirical evidence of need.

Yeah, if you know for sure it's 12yo, I would flush and change. Again, peace of mind. And as other have stated, the change interval is usually given as years/miles. Highest years I've seen is 10.

 

[21_6.7f450]

Change it and use distilled water. If you don't, we will see your post about a plugged or leaking heater core soon. Dropping the dash ain't no fun sir, if you get my drift.
I've seen *Up to 10 years...under ideal normal conditions. Severe service is X, usually half that.
Coolant within a metal Coolant system does go bad just sitting. PLUS, Ford is almost famous for not flushing casting sand out. Just ask any 6 0, 6.4, or the owner on here with a 3 times heater core removal. Yes, i know the 6.0 and 6.4 are International, Ford still could have flushed them. That sand is circulating every time you drive and and erosion of the water pump and heater core are taking place.
My 21 6.7 had 1/4" of sand in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. I ran both cooling systems on distilled water for 20 minutes 3 times and then did a 50/50 mix.