Low mile oil changes

[paulswagelock]

5 cars and 1 full time driver means low annual mileage on some of my cars.
My Mini Cooper sees 2-3,000 miles per year max. My 65 Mustang only sees 200 miles per year. I have settled into 2 yr oci on the Mustang, but maybe should extend that even longer (Brad Penn Racing oil). It is stored in my heated garage. The Mini still gets annual changes but I am thinking I could extend it as well (PP oil). It is also stored in a heated garage. Doing an analysis would help, but for the cost of the analysis I can just change it. Anyone with any experience in low mileage oci recommendations?

 

[Jay1981]

Regardless of mileage change it at least once a year imo.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: T4R
Regardless of mileage change it at least once a year imo.


Not with his Mustang, I bet with only 200 miles a year being put on it, that he could go three years between changes and it would be perfectly fine.

 

[SS1970chrysler]

I have a few cars that get similar low mileage to yours and change the oil every 2-3 years on them. Each time I run them, it is more than a couple miles and I make sure they get good and hot. The exception to this is cars without PCV valves, those I change annually regardless of miles.
My '62 Buick usually gets a little bit of water in the oil, most likely from the downdraft tube. It's never much, but I don't like it to stay there.

 

[code5coupe]

If you had a collectible car that got driven not at all, would you still change the oil every 1 or 2 or 3 years? If so, why?

Oil does not go bad.
Oil additives get depleted through USE.
No use, no depletion.
No depletion, no need to change oil.

You guys can change the oil at <1000 miles if you want, but can I have it?

 

[sprocketser]

I would change it @ 2-3 years intervals because of humidity , cause of water in oil i strongly believe . The op s in PA , so its pretty humid out there right on Summer time .

 

[gathermewool]

Sure, you could simply change the oil for the price of an UOA, but how long do you plan on keeping these cars? One UOA each after your normal interval will prove to you (over a wide range of vehicles and usage types) that extending the OCI's in ALL of your rides is possible. So, you pay for the knowledge, and the ROI might be show in as short as only one extended drain interval for all of your vehicles.

You may also find that you've got an issue with one of your vehicles that could be costly if left unchecked, due either to full on failure or simple accelerated corrosion or wear.

Yearly intervals no matter what? What a joke...in some cases

 

[SS1970chrysler]

In my cases, the short used oil gets re-purposed for my 2 leakers that are driven daily. The rest goes into my furnace.
If I didn't have a use for that much oil, I'd alter my change sequence some.
Either way, 5 quarts of oil semi-yearly is a relatively small expense when dealing with antique vehicles.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
In my cases, the short used oil gets re-purposed for my 2 leakers that are driven daily. The rest goes into my furnace.
If I didn't have a use for that much oil, I'd alter my change sequence some.
Either way, 5 quarts of oil semi-yearly is a relatively small expense when dealing with antique vehicles.


How often do you change all of the other fluids? There's prudence and then there's wastefulness. Regardless of cost, a product should be used to the end of its useful life.

I have nothing against any one performing maintenance too frequently, except when the sole purpose is because it doesn't cost very much. There are many things that don't cost much, relatively speaking, but that doesn't mean they should be change out more frequently than needed.

Light bulbs are cheap, so why risk having one burn out on you on a dark and stormy night when you can replace them annually to ensure a very low probability of unexpected failure? These tires have 6/32" of tread left, but 10/32" would give me that much more resistance to hydroplaning. Tires are expensive, sure, but it's not so bad, since it's spread out over the three years worth of service they've provided.

 

[SS1970chrysler]

Well, on my antiques trans, PS, and rear axle oil are only changed when I first buy them or on a rebuild as I won't likely live to see them hit even a 30k interval. Coolant is changed every 5 years or so, less if it fails testing or a component fails. Brake fluid is changed every time I replace shoes or see a cylinder starting to weep. That's a must on single system brakes. Tires usually last me well over 10 years on the indoor cars.
I do not have a heated garage so moisture from condensation is a reality and carbed cars do not run very clean. My oil filters stick out of the front of the engine and get hit with all sorts of debris when I do drive them and thus the filters get rusty. it works for me, your mileage may vary.
Of note: I have been pondering an occasional UOA on my Chryslers as the oil ages as I'm a curious sort.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler

Of note: I have been pondering an occasional UOA on my Chryslers as the oil ages as I'm a curious sort.


That would be very interesting to see. Seems like you've got the maintenance on your vehicles down to a science and all at perfectly reasonable intervals. You mentioned 2-3 years in some of your vehicles, so how often do you change the oil in your '62 Buick?

 

[SS1970chrysler]

That one gets changed annually because I've found water in it each time. The open down-draft tube just lets moisture right in from the ground. Fuel dilution is also a small problem on this design. It predates PCV valves.
This one is also stored in my driveway as I use it whenever I can.