Loud vibrating hum coming from air box occasionally

Scan the engine computer for codes.
It only ever has one code and it says EGR insufficient flow. And the reason is the tiny plastic vacuum line to the EGR has cooked itself to bits, disintegrated. The EGR valve can never open as it never gets a vacuum. Where ever the tiny plastic 1/8" width plastic vacuum hose goes, I don't know.
IT is wrapped into the wire harness. If anyone knows an EGR hose routing diagram, I would like to see it, as I could maybe put a standard rubber hose in there. Car is a 1998 Contour SE with 2.5L v6
 
It only ever has one code and it says EGR insufficient flow. And the reason is the tiny plastic vacuum line to the EGR has cooked itself to bits, disintegrated. The EGR valve can never open as it never gets a vacuum. Where ever the tiny plastic 1/8" width plastic vacuum hose goes, I don't know.
IT is wrapped into the wire harness. If anyone knows an EGR hose routing diagram, I would like to see it, as I could maybe put a standard rubber hose in there. Car is a 1998 Contour SE with 2.5L v6
VIN L or VIN G?
It's automatic I assume, and not a SVT?
 
It only ever has one code and it says EGR insufficient flow. And the reason is the tiny plastic vacuum line to the EGR has cooked itself to bits, disintegrated. The EGR valve can never open as it never gets a vacuum. Where ever the tiny plastic 1/8" width plastic vacuum hose goes, I don't know.
IT is wrapped into the wire harness. If anyone knows an EGR hose routing diagram, I would like to see it, as I could maybe put a standard rubber hose in there. Car is a 1998 Contour SE with 2.5L v6
Fix that first
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The loud hum has not come back since putting the original FORD IAC valve with 128,000 miles back on. I oiled it with synthetic engine oil and made sure it was not sticking. The replacement SMP IAC from Amazon, it's valve at rest was opened about 1/4" while the FORD IAC, its valve was almost closed, maybe sitting at 1/8". Otherwise they looked identical.
 
The loud hum has not come back since putting the original FORD IAC valve with 128,000 miles back on. I oiled it with synthetic engine oil and made sure it was not sticking. The replacement SMP IAC from Amazon, it's valve at rest was opened about 1/4" while the FORD IAC, its valve was almost closed, maybe sitting at 1/8". Otherwise they looked identical.
I've had universally poor luck with aftermarket IAC (and TPS) on vintage Ford's

1.9 SEFI Escort, 3.0 Vulcan Taurus, 3.8 Essex Windstar, they all were worse
Tested and cleaned used OE or NOS Motorcraft was the only way to go
 
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