Lots of iron and calcium in my well water

[UncleDave]

I read your description in your initial post. Go open up your toilet tanks and take a picture and post.

Wish I wasn't, but I am very fluent in iron from well water. And what it takes to reduce/ remove it. Would not be surprised if you cut open your horizontal water delivery pipes and a very thick layer of iron in the pipes.

Cartridge filter is not a solution based on the information you posted in this thread.

That was my take as well. What he's describing cant be scrubbed by a softener and a cart filter wont last very long.

It all starts with a test, outside of this it's guesswork.

OP - what type of sediment filter are you using in your 2.5X 10? Pleat, melt, string?
How long before changing out?
You cant get a really good sediment carbon combo until you go with a 4.5x10 or 20, but there are some good options for string filters.

 

[MrGraybeard]

Iron filter. A unit like this also took a substantial level of arsenic out of my well water.
https://www.amazon.com/DuraWater-In...argid=pla-2281435180058&psc=1#customerReviews

 

[andrew_j]

BobisthewaterGuy …….

 

[B6_Dolphin]

When I owned a house in Western MI with iron in the well water, I opted for a whole-house resin filter. Depending on the concentration of Iron in the water, you can decide how often to re-gen the resin. Here's some good options:

https://qualitywaterlab.com/contaminants/iron-filters/

I would get your water tested to determine what else, besides iron, that might be necessary to treat.

 

[walterjay]

Don't spend money on anything until you know exactly what the water chemistry is and exactly what you need to treat it.

 

[The motor guy]

I've also noticed everyone around here had galvanized well tanks. Not sure if that's because a lot of them are outside with no well house or what.

 

[Cujet]

I've also noticed everyone around here had galvanized well tanks. Not sure if that's because a lot of them are outside with no well house or what.

That is more likely a matter of cost and the local installer.

Typically galvanized tanks have no bladder inside. They use various methods to maintain an air cushion above the water. Some just get charged with air every once in a while. Others have a way to introduce a bit of air into the water stream. Any way you slice it, the air disappears over time because air and water are in contact, and air migrates into the water. The air must be managed. Either through devices or manually.

Bladder tanks keep the water and air separate. With these, you do get what you pay for. Cheap metal tanks often have a metal band inside to retain the bladder. Rust can form and or the bladder is thin/poor quality. I've been through plenty of these metal "box store specials".

A WellMate brand fiberglass tank is a relatively safe bet. Not the cheapest, but likely as trouble free a bladder tank as you'll find.


A good bladder tank can operate at 60-80 PSI without any issues. Not as easy with a galvanized tank, as the pre-charge when empty is just ambient atmospheric pressure.