Loose battery terminal connection inadvertently leads to a battery test showdown

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Dec 9, 2023
Messages
4
Hi

First post, first thread.

The other day my son's 1998 Chev Monte Carlo Z34 wouldn't start. I grabbed my multimeter and did a quick check for battery voltage. The battery is buried beneath the washer fluid tank and you can't easily get onto the terminals. I measured off the positive jumper terminal and the frame - no voltage reading? I should've realized right there what the problem was. Instead I started trying to check for voltage elsewhere and in the process after pushing on the battery cables I got a reading. Voltage reading was below 12 volts. I boosted his battery, got it running, drove it a bit, brought it back, shut it off, tried to start again, and it wouldn't start.

Now that I had his car in the garage I decided to take the battery out, place it on the charger, and test it in the morning before work. Next morning I used my Schumacher BT-100 load tester to check the now fully charged battery. Battery passed the test and I went to work. While at work I had a conversation with a co-worker about my son's car problem and he gave me a Snap-On EECS500 battery tester that staff use for testing the emergency generator's starter batteries. It was Friday so I had it for the weekend. Cool. $800 Snap-On tester vs my under $100 BT-100 tester. After work I tried the Snap-On tester and the result was "Replace Battery". Well, I thought I should try it one more time after making sure the battery was fully charged again.

Next day, battery fully charged, waited 30 minutes, tried the Snap-On tester and again, CCA were half of rated CCA. Again result showed "Replace Battery". Was not convinced it was a bad battery. I kept thinking about not getting a voltage reading when I first checked it in the car AND it was a quality battery purchased in February. I tried the BT-100 tester again. Once again it showed 800 CCA and the needle never left the "good" zone. Waited about twenty minutes and tried one more time. This time I connected my Fluke meter to the battery with alligator clips so I could see the voltage drop during the load test. Starting voltage was 12.65, connected the BT-100, 10 second test, voltage dropped to just above 11 volts (very good), and I got the same reading as the last two BT-100 load tests. Removed the BT-100, left the Fluke connected, voltage jumped up to slightly above 12, and within a few minutes it was reading 12.62 (very good).

Cleaned the battery terminals, put the battery back in, made sure the connections were tight, re-assemble all items I needed to remove to get the battery out, and tried starting 3 times. No problem. Took the Monte for a rip, brought it back home, shut it down, and started it again. I think it is good to go!

Sub $100 Schumacher BT-100 (with an assist from the Fluke 117) stomped the $800 Snap-On EECS500.

I will be happy to return the Snap-On tester to work on Monday and suggest they check it for accuracy. In reality it may have been dropped or had some other issue because I suspect it should be able to give a better result than it did. Nonetheless, I won't be tempted to buy an electronic handheld tester until I can no longer get by with what I have.
 
Could've been a combination of low battery & poor connection. It sounds like you dug into it to investigate & solve the problem. I'm sure the son is happy to get his functional Monte back.
 
Hi

First post, first thread.

The other day my son's 1998 Chev Monte Carlo Z34 wouldn't start. I grabbed my multimeter and did a quick check for battery voltage. The battery is buried beneath the washer fluid tank and you can't easily get onto the terminals. I measured off the positive jumper terminal and the frame - no voltage reading? I should've realized right there what the problem was. Instead I started trying to check for voltage elsewhere and in the process after pushing on the battery cables I got a reading. Voltage reading was below 12 volts. I boosted his battery, got it running, drove it a bit, brought it back, shut it off, tried to start again, and it wouldn't start.

Now that I had his car in the garage I decided to take the battery out, place it on the charger, and test it in the morning before work. Next morning I used my Schumacher BT-100 load tester to check the now fully charged battery. Battery passed the test and I went to work. While at work I had a conversation with a co-worker about my son's car problem and he gave me a Snap-On EECS500 battery tester that staff use for testing the emergency generator's starter batteries. It was Friday so I had it for the weekend. Cool. $800 Snap-On tester vs my under $100 BT-100 tester. After work I tried the Snap-On tester and the result was "Replace Battery". Well, I thought I should try it one more time after making sure the battery was fully charged again.

Next day, battery fully charged, waited 30 minutes, tried the Snap-On tester and again, CCA were half of rated CCA. Again result showed "Replace Battery". Was not convinced it was a bad battery. I kept thinking about not getting a voltage reading when I first checked it in the car AND it was a quality battery purchased in February. I tried the BT-100 tester again. Once again it showed 800 CCA and the needle never left the "good" zone. Waited about twenty minutes and tried one more time. This time I connected my Fluke meter to the battery with alligator clips so I could see the voltage drop during the load test. Starting voltage was 12.65, connected the BT-100, 10 second test, voltage dropped to just above 11 volts (very good), and I got the same reading as the last two BT-100 load tests. Removed the BT-100, left the Fluke connected, voltage jumped up to slightly above 12, and within a few minutes it was reading 12.62 (very good).

Cleaned the battery terminals, put the battery back in, made sure the connections were tight, re-assemble all items I needed to remove to get the battery out, and tried starting 3 times. No problem. Took the Monte for a rip, brought it back home, shut it down, and started it again. I think it is good to go!

Sub $100 Schumacher BT-100 (with an assist from the Fluke 117) stomped the $800 Snap-On EECS500.

I will be happy to return the Snap-On tester to work on Monday and suggest they check it for accuracy. In reality it may have been dropped or had some other issue because I suspect it should be able to give a better result than it did. Nonetheless, I won't be tempted to buy an electronic handheld tester until I can no longer get by with what I have.
It's very possible that the snap on had been dropped or needs a calibration. But it should have been way more accurate than it was. Did you coat the battery terminals with a sealant to keep and further corrosion from happening?
 
It's very possible that the snap on had been dropped or needs a calibration. But it should have been way more accurate than it was. Did you coat the battery terminals with a sealant to keep and further corrosion from happening?
Hopefully he come back, it’s been over a year.
 
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