Looking to buy a hatchback in the $5K to $10K price range

I think the CRV will be more practical for my needs. It has quite a bit more room than the 3, and there are a lot more of them around...
CRV’s are great too. This is from past weekend. It tows 16ft Jon boat fine. 2014 and older don’t have CVT’s.

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There might be better options but my younger sister has a 2012 Hyundai Accent that would certainly check all of your boxes. The 1.6L Gamma engine is fairly reliable, much more than most of the other Hyundai/Kia vehicles. 6 speed auto, non-turbo, hers has tan cloth interior, cruise control, not an EV, not a hybrid, no turbo. I think the tow rating is 1000 kg.

For what the car is, I actually really like it. Its small, easy to drive, handles pretty well, and really good on gas. Also, I'm 6'3" and fit in it with tons of room to spare. Its more roomy than my '97 Accord for sure.
 
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How do you feel about Hyundai/Kia? While their late models are terrible used buys IMO, they do have some older ones that are port injected and have traditional 6 speed automatics.

I'm talking about 2013-2017 Elantra GT, which is the quite good looking IMO
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Next one is Elantra Touring, not exactly a looker, but should be quite practical

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Kia Forte Hatchback is also not bad looking IMO

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I think a big thing to look at is also the tow ratings at least on line search.

The loading of trailer may also play a large role. Last summer I hauled two 55 gallon drums of diesel in an open top trailer with my daughters '08 CRV. I had them toward the front and the tongue weight made it sag a lot. I had to do a second trip and put themcloser toward trailer axle but still with tongue weight. Much better but if 1000 lb towing capacity is needed, that needs to be watched.
 
CRV’s are great too. This is from past weekend. It tows 16ft Jon boat fine. 2014 and older don’t have CVT’s.

My other sister has a 2011 CR-V that I maintain. It's a nice little car. There is a recall out there for them for the rear control arms/subframe rusting, so if OP goes this route, they might want to look to see that it has been performed. My younger sister's has the infamous VTEC rattle first thing in the morning, but it only does it when it's cold. The K24s are good engines.
 
Maybe @macarose has options or recommendations for you.

Something southern with no rust and probably delivered to you.
I don't do the cyber purchases. I've gotta see/drive, and be able to have my mechanic check it out before I buy it, so it almost has to be something local, at least semi local...
 
I don't do the cyber purchases. I've gotta see/drive, and be able to have my mechanic check it out before I buy it, so it almost has to be something local, at least semi local...
Read up on the posts here about @macarose and his 48 hours and a used car on Facebook. Many recommendations from here at BITOG. He may have something that you could go and try or options. I totally understand the wanting to see/touch/drive/inspect. With all the used car scams out there, I personally value input from car minded people we have here as compared to general public or even many car dealers.

Some get beaten but I'd rather get a used vehicle from Enterprise/Hertz/Avis than probably most used car places. At least they got maintained along the way vs what I see traded in to offload problems.

One of my workers bought an F150, a bit older, good shape, matched similar for price. He just started having lots of problems with it. Yup Odometer was reprogrammed to be almost 200k less. He went to seller and with some "persuasion" got about $5k back but still has to sink it into it. Another had a reconditioned flood salvage. You couldn't tell until the problems showed up.
 
I think a big thing to look at is also the tow ratings at least on line search.

The loading of trailer may also play a large role. Last summer I hauled two 55 gallon drums of diesel in an open top trailer with my daughters '08 CRV. I had them toward the front and the tongue weight made it sag a lot. I had to do a second trip and put themcloser toward trailer axle but still with tongue weight. Much better but if 1000 lb towing capacity is needed, that needs to be watched.
My Corolla's towing capacity is 1000 lbs, and I towed 1000lbs (loaded) with it. It did just fine. My tongue weight with that trailer was less than 100 lbs. I have a different trailer now, so I won't know what its tongue weight will be until I load the bike for the first time...I looked up the towing capacity for a 2011 CR-V and it said 1500 KG, which is like 3300 lbs...I'm sure the Highlander would be similar...
 
My Corolla's towing capacity is 1000 lbs, and I towed 1000lbs (loaded) with it. It did just fine. My tongue weight with that trailer was less than 100 lbs. I have a different trailer now, so I won't know what its tongue weight will be until I load the bike for the first time...I looked up the towing capacity for a 2011 CR-V and it said 1500 KG, which is like 3300 lbs...I'm sure the Highlander would be similar...
1500 lbs, not KG at least here in USA. The older 6cyl Highlanders were able to do more but the 4 cyl were also like 1500 lbs.
 
There's a pattern I'm seeing with the pricing. Just about every place is extremely high, regardless of make or model. Every ad I've seen so far has had the Kelly Blue Book fair market value scale listed near the bottom of the page, and the asking price ranges anywhere from $1500 to $2500 higher than the top price listed on the fair market price scale. This is ridiculous. I thought ADM was a thing of the past? Though there is no separate entry for this charge listed, it's now apparently just embedded in the price of the vehicle...
 
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