looking for recommendations: Honda k24

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I'm the only Chevron fanatic on the whole board.
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"Seems like a war is erupting between the 3k'ers and the 5k'ers"

4k!!!

Seriously, I do 4 month intervals. Comes out to 7500-8000mi for me.
 
GoldenRod, you're just late. Chevron was "the" oil a year or two ago.

sumptimwong, all K24s have timing chains. The oil pump and balancer shafts are also chain driven. GF-4/SM dinos (some Grp III blends) 5w20s or 5w30s will easily go 5K miles in these engines. We have a plethora of used oil analysis of 5w20s working just fine in this engine under a variety of conditions. Honda recommends 5w20 GF-4/SM dinos at 5K mile OCIs for severe service, so it's not like you're pushing the envelope here. Spend the money for at least one UOA. It will verify that your OCI is reasonable, and check on the general health of your engine.
 
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The reason why I'm favoring the 30w over the 20w is because I'm afraid of the dilution effects from the short trips I take every once in a while

The 5w30 isn't going to provide any additional protection from fuel dilution. That's just another unsubstantiated myth perpetuated by 5w20 haters.
 
I'd say stay with the 5w20. As a breed, they are a VERY robust oil. Also they are specifically formulated TO Ford and Honda specifications. (Ford being the more stringent of the two)

This board is a great place to find the so called "BEST" oil of the 5w20's and/or BEST practices.

It is also common knowledge the Honda engines are happiest with more moly than not. 5w20 has HUGE doses of moly.

So if you intend to go with 5,000 mile OCI's, there is not much point from a cost point of view to run synthetics, i.e., Mobil 1 5w20, 4/5 per vs ExxonMobil Superflo 5w20 at 1 per.

I would have no problems running 10,000 mile OCI's with any of the conventional 5w20's. If I decided to stay with conventional oil, one of the tops ones I would run is the ExxonMobil Superflo. But hey, given the standards SM/SL etc. there is nothing wrong with a .49 cent per quart SALE!!
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The only thing bad about the following list of the conventional oils, are the ones I might have inadvertantly left out. Chevron, Havoline, ExxonMobil Superflo, Mobil Drive clean, Pennzoil, Castro, Motorcraft, Honda oem, Schaffer's, and of course etc.

I am running the synthetic Mobil 1 0w20 in a 2004 Honda Civic. It continues to run like the proverbial top.

[ February 23, 2006, 01:33 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
 
You can't go wrong with M1 on 10K intervals. If both Honda and people on this board recommend conventional for 10K, then M1 could easily do it. Walmart usually has it for $20 for a 5 quart jug. Not unreasonable if you ask me.
 
"You can't go wrong with M1 on 10K intervals. If both Honda and people on this board recommend conventional for 10K, then M1 could easily do it. Walmart usually has it for $20 for a 5 quart jug. Not unreasonable if you ask me. "

I would agree totally. However the numbers indicate an interesting anomoly. In fact with Honda's oem recommendation of 5w20 conventional oil, it has "raised the bar" significantly and considerably to a very very high level. In fact I think it (the 10,000 mile OCI with conventional oil and 20,000 mile filter change) beats almost ANYTHING out there!!!

So for example at 3.2qt/3.4 qt(with filter) @ 1 per quart a 20,000 mile oci runs something like 6.60 and 2.07 for a filter= 8.67/20,000 miles or .0004335 per mile lubricated. So even running 20,000 miles on Mobil 1 0w20 is 3.4 x 4=13.60+ 2.07= 15.67. or .0007835 per mile lubricated. Or if the zeros are too many= 80% MORE for synthetic!!! Clearly NOT GOOD!!

In fact there is one little known thing that makes synthetic cost effective against conventional oil. This is where the anomoly comes in. It is the .5 to 3 mpg increase in mpg when using a 0w20 Mobil 1. Mine happens to be 2 mpg, so over 20,000 miles we are saving (35/37 mpg) 30.9 gal@ 2.40= $74.06. So if you add 74.06+ 8.67= $65.39 vs $15.67. for 20,000 miles.

So even if one ran 10,000 mile OCI's with Mobil 1 0w20, that would make it $65.39 vs 15.67 +12.80= $28.47, still -$36.92 or Still CHEAPER.

So for sure, the "advantage/s" does not jump our at you. As folks know there is no CONVENTIONAL oil 0w20 currently on the market.

[ February 23, 2006, 07:11 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
 
Goldenrod- There is no war on this board. If you do not like synthetic oil and long oci's then fine. Just let it rest. Change your oil as you please and let others do the same. Your advise will not be taken well with your current stance for a war.
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Also has any other members noticed the decline of posts by the boards true knowledgeable members? In past times a debate would have true meaningful input from these members, not the petty posts we see now. Let's get this board pointed back in that same direction. We have great site sponsors. We need for them to stick around. With crazy posts like above we could loose some.
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Thank you like a rock. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one fed up with the daily nonsense on what used to be a very enjoyable board.
 
Thanks for your insight, ruking.

It seems like there are many arguments going for sticking with a 5w20, yet I still see some members using 5w30 on this engine and similar K series. Is there a reasoning behind their doing so? Are there ANY advantages? TIA
 
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I dont think I need the 0w since its never colder than 30F where I'm at, even in the middle of the night in the depths of winter. Still having a hard time between the 5w20 and the 5w30 though.

Nobody said you need to.
But it will never hurt, even in the warmest climates.
So why not?
 
Well, I honestly haven't explored that option yet.

However, from the above post, "As folks know there is no CONVENTIONAL oil 0w20 currently on the market."
 
The K series has very close clearances. The only other Honda engine this close is the R18 in the new Civic. I wouldn't mind the use of a 20wt. However my application can see much higher oil temps due to very short gears and high revs, a 30wt would probably flow at the same consistancy as 20wt in your car. I see about 4000+ rpms when driving down the freeway with the flow of traffic. We both get the approximately the same fuel economy, so we both obviously burn about the same amount of fuel. The difference is the fact that your engine is 20% larger in displacement and the block is much taller, so therefore the heat has more surface area to be absorbed and disappated into the air or engine coolant. (That was probably a run-on) If you drive semi-agressively or live in warm climate, use a 30wt. I only race my car, and I am looking into a nice 40wt once my stash of EP is run down.
 
like a rock, "Also has any other members noticed the decline of posts by the boards true knowledgeable members?...."

farrarfan1, "I'm glad to see I'm not the only one fed up with the daily nonsense on what used to be a very enjoyable board".

A bit off topic but, yes I've been seeing this for some time. I miss the very knowledgeable members that once frequently posted here. They're gone and no one has replaced them. Sigh...
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I have an 03 k24 as well as a 05 k24. I ran M1 until I gave Schaeffer oils a try. The 5W20 and 5W30 Schaeffer 7000 series ran 10K intervals without breaking a sweat. At 3.25 a qt. it is an unbeatable product! I NEVER would have thought a "blend" could perform like it has in my Hondas. There is no reason for me to ever go back to M1.
 
Cool Mokanic. And note that Schaeffer's is one of the few who actually publish many of their API test results.

What do the others have to hide?
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My experience with purchasing Schaeffer oil has been very pleasant. I make one phone call and it gets delivered to my house by a Schaeffer rep. in my erea.
I almost didnt try the product becouse I thought there was no way a blend could compete with the product I was using. I was wrong and didnt know as much about oil as I thought I did.
The price and product are great and I am going to be offering it to my customers that use a full synthetic product in their vehicles.
A good product;a good price;a good company. How long can it last?
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