So i make a homemade waxoil solution for spraying on the underside of vehicles just like fluid film or krown ect. I am looking for something to add to the solution that acts as a rust converter/neutralizer. Most things i see are water based and water and oil certainly dont mix and i dont want water getting trapped under the waxoil. Im looking for something mild and that will completely blend into the oil and not separate out. It can be liquid or powder as long as it completely mixes. The cheaper the better. Im not looking for something thats $50 a quart or something ridiculous. Thanks
Looking for a rust converter to add to waxoil solution.
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Not to disagree, but, is this even necessary ?
A (penetrating) oil like Fluid Film or any of the others used would creep thru the rust down to the base metal and stop any rusting.
Converting heavy rust will do no good because rust does not hold a vehicle together.
Again, not to disagree, and I live in the Rust Belt.
A (penetrating) oil like Fluid Film or any of the others used would creep thru the rust down to the base metal and stop any rusting.
Converting heavy rust will do no good because rust does not hold a vehicle together.
Again, not to disagree, and I live in the Rust Belt.
I thought rust converters were acid based? I can't remember the exact chemistry but it changes the Iron Oxide into something else that doesn't spread. I'm not sure you can combine that effect with an oil spray.
Originally Posted by MasterSolenoid
Converting heavy rust will do no good because rust does not hold a vehicle together.
Again, not to disagree, and I live in the Rust Belt.
Rust is good at holding oil, that's why it is almost never too late to have a vehicle oil sprayed.
Originally Posted by MasterSolenoid
Converting heavy rust will do no good because rust does not hold a vehicle together.
Again, not to disagree, and I live in the Rust Belt.
Rust is good at holding oil, that's why it is almost never too late to have a vehicle oil sprayed.
Originally Posted by MasterSolenoid
Not to disagree, but, is this even necessary ?
A (penetrating) oil like Fluid Film or any of the others used would creep thru the rust down to the base metal and stop any rusting.
Converting heavy rust will do no good because rust does not hold a vehicle together.
Again, not to disagree, and I live in the Rust Belt.
The waxoil helps stop the oxygen getting to the steel but i figured that having something help slow the rust down would be good to add.
Not to disagree, but, is this even necessary ?
A (penetrating) oil like Fluid Film or any of the others used would creep thru the rust down to the base metal and stop any rusting.
Converting heavy rust will do no good because rust does not hold a vehicle together.
Again, not to disagree, and I live in the Rust Belt.
The waxoil helps stop the oxygen getting to the steel but i figured that having something help slow the rust down would be good to add.
Don't think that can be done. As you say, everything normally referred to as a "rust converter"involves, AFAIK chemical reactions occurring in the aqueous phase, and are unlikely to be functional dispersed in your gloop.
If you want to do it, do it separately, first, and then overspray/paint with your stuff.
I doubt its worth the trouble though.
If you want to do it, do it separately, first, and then overspray/paint with your stuff.
I doubt its worth the trouble though.
Originally Posted by mez
although I can not provide an solution for you, I am interested on the ingredients you used to make the homemade waxoil solution for spraying on the underside of vehicles. Thanks
I have been using slack wax toilet bowl rings and tractor supply bar and chain oil. The bar and chain oil has tackifiers and rust inhibitors in it already and the two blend together really nicely. The wax rings were basically a proof of concept and they can get expensive when you need so many. I have now bought a 5 gallon pale of slack wax instead of the toilet bowl wrings as it is much cheaper.
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although I can not provide an solution for you, I am interested on the ingredients you used to make the homemade waxoil solution for spraying on the underside of vehicles. Thanks
I have been using slack wax toilet bowl rings and tractor supply bar and chain oil. The bar and chain oil has tackifiers and rust inhibitors in it already and the two blend together really nicely. The wax rings were basically a proof of concept and they can get expensive when you need so many. I have now bought a 5 gallon pale of slack wax instead of the toilet bowl wrings as it is much cheaper.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
This works well. Penetrol
Boiled Linseed Oil works too.
I use Cortec VpCI-368.
Think Penetrol is an alkyd resin. Basically a slow-set paint without the pigment, like linseed oil, but a bit quicker, and a lot less biodegradable, which means it probably won't grow mould..
"Rust converters" are supposed to chemically react with the rust.
Cortec VpCI-368:doesn't seem to be a "rust converter" either, since they describe it as a temporary coating and say it can be washed off
"For structural steel applications, Cortec recommends a minimum of a NACE #3/ SSPC-SP6 commercial blast clean."
Well dream on, Cortec.
This works well. Penetrol
Boiled Linseed Oil works too.
I use Cortec VpCI-368.
Think Penetrol is an alkyd resin. Basically a slow-set paint without the pigment, like linseed oil, but a bit quicker, and a lot less biodegradable, which means it probably won't grow mould..
"Rust converters" are supposed to chemically react with the rust.
Cortec VpCI-368:doesn't seem to be a "rust converter" either, since they describe it as a temporary coating and say it can be washed off
"For structural steel applications, Cortec recommends a minimum of a NACE #3/ SSPC-SP6 commercial blast clean."
Well dream on, Cortec.
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I think some form of Waxy/Oil would be beneficial on a NEW vehicle.
It could help prevent rust from forming.
Careful that what you spray on will not affect 'rubber' components.
But, once rust starts to develop, I think an oil spray is the way to go.
It will creep around welded seams and thru any surface rust.
I myself would use an Oil Spray (Fluid Film) before any body rust appears.
In your photos, your vehicle does have a bit of rust.
My 2002 Ford Ranger has no body / under-side rust.
Discloser: Working under my vehicle is an oily MESS.
I had it oil-sprayed after buying it new, and do yearly touchups myself.
Fluid Film and Atomizer Hose
http://www.kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmwand.html
Atomizer Hose being used
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzJeEPtvwqw
It could help prevent rust from forming.
Careful that what you spray on will not affect 'rubber' components.
But, once rust starts to develop, I think an oil spray is the way to go.
It will creep around welded seams and thru any surface rust.
I myself would use an Oil Spray (Fluid Film) before any body rust appears.
In your photos, your vehicle does have a bit of rust.
My 2002 Ford Ranger has no body / under-side rust.
Discloser: Working under my vehicle is an oily MESS.
I had it oil-sprayed after buying it new, and do yearly touchups myself.
Fluid Film and Atomizer Hose
http://www.kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmwand.html
Atomizer Hose being used
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzJeEPtvwqw
Last edited:
Originally Posted by MasterSolenoid
I think some form of Waxy/Oil would be beneficial on a NEW vehicle.
It could help prevent rust from forming.
Careful that what you spray on will not affect 'rubber' components.
But, once rust starts to develop, I think an oil spray is the way to go.
It will creep around welded seams and thru any surface rust.
I myself would use an Oil Spray (Fluid Film) before any body rust appears.
In your photos, your vehicle does have a bit of rust.
My 2002 Ford Ranger has no body / under-side rust.
Discloser: Working under my vehicle is an oily MESS.
I had it oil-sprayed after buying it new, and do yearly touchups myself.
Fluid Film and Atomizer Hose
http://www.kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmwand.html
Atomizer Hose being used
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzJeEPtvwqw
The stuff i sprayed on is not very hard. Its very oily with the wax added as a thickener and in the summer it does drip off from the heat. Its not a hard waxy layer i am spraying. It can also be applied with a paint brush but spraying is much easier.
I think some form of Waxy/Oil would be beneficial on a NEW vehicle.
It could help prevent rust from forming.
Careful that what you spray on will not affect 'rubber' components.
But, once rust starts to develop, I think an oil spray is the way to go.
It will creep around welded seams and thru any surface rust.
I myself would use an Oil Spray (Fluid Film) before any body rust appears.
In your photos, your vehicle does have a bit of rust.
My 2002 Ford Ranger has no body / under-side rust.
Discloser: Working under my vehicle is an oily MESS.
I had it oil-sprayed after buying it new, and do yearly touchups myself.
Fluid Film and Atomizer Hose
http://www.kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmwand.html
Atomizer Hose being used
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzJeEPtvwqw
The stuff i sprayed on is not very hard. Its very oily with the wax added as a thickener and in the summer it does drip off from the heat. Its not a hard waxy layer i am spraying. It can also be applied with a paint brush but spraying is much easier.
I THINK Fluid Film, like actual Waxoyl, may be a lanolin base, though I can't remember where I got that information. Funny stuff, sort of intermediate between a wax and an oil. I tried actual Waxoyl a long time ago and didn't think much of it, though it may have improved. These days I use a hydraulic veg oil mix which seems fairly effective, cheap ad easy Next time I may use straight veg oil in wash off areas
Originally Posted by Ducked
I THINK Fluid Film, like actual Waxoyl, may be a lanolin base, though I can't remember where I got that information. Funny stuff, sort of intermediate between a wax and an oil. I tried actual Waxoyl a long time ago and didn't think much of it, though it may have improved. These days I use a hydraulic veg oil mix which seems fairly effective, cheap ad easy Next time I may use straight veg oil in wash off areas
Yes fluid film is made from lanolin. I usually keep a spray can on hand for precise spraying or hard to reach areas. I found that it washes away to easily but I have never tried the gallon can which is a thicker formula. The gallon gan was to expensive so I sought to make something myself that's cheaper as I would go through a couple gallons.
I THINK Fluid Film, like actual Waxoyl, may be a lanolin base, though I can't remember where I got that information. Funny stuff, sort of intermediate between a wax and an oil. I tried actual Waxoyl a long time ago and didn't think much of it, though it may have improved. These days I use a hydraulic veg oil mix which seems fairly effective, cheap ad easy Next time I may use straight veg oil in wash off areas
Yes fluid film is made from lanolin. I usually keep a spray can on hand for precise spraying or hard to reach areas. I found that it washes away to easily but I have never tried the gallon can which is a thicker formula. The gallon gan was to expensive so I sought to make something myself that's cheaper as I would go through a couple gallons.
I might try adding vegetable shortening next time. Probably slower to rancidify than lard.
Ideally one would want the old style fully hydrogenated, high trans Crisco, but I don't think you can buy that any more, so moderately poisonous will probably have to do
Ideally one would want the old style fully hydrogenated, high trans Crisco, but I don't think you can buy that any more, so moderately poisonous will probably have to do
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