Longer distance towing.

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Let me first say that im sure my trucks up to the task, im just putting this out there for conversation and to get second opinions etc..

I have the ext cab 1500 5.3 ltr 4x4 Silverado with 73,000 on the clock, at 70,000 miles the tranny, diffs, and Syn oil were changed. Last summer i pulled the lower hose on the radiator and drained what was in there and refilled. My trucks got the trailer/haul button. I have a 12 foot open utility trailer (it s a single axle). I think only the HD Silverado's models came with a tranny cooler, although i could be wrong, i will have to have a closer look at my truck. With that said im planning on putting two motorcycles in the bed and two more motorcycles on the trailer (Each motorcycle weighing 430-460ish pounds each so roughly 2,000 lbs worth of bikes, The trailers probably 1,000-1,200 lbs itself another 250 ish lbs of gear, and 4 adult men ranging between 170-230lbs each. On flat Indiana land driving around with this load is nothing, i already know this, However im taking this crew over the smokey mountain's. Ive never hauled this kind of load over a mountain range before.

my rough math says im hauling 4050 lbs (roughly with passengers) I have every intention of using the tow haul button in the hilly areas, and of course in the mountains.. i dont think its realy necessary (or is it ?) on the flat lands ? I haul my Polaris Ranger around on this trailer and the tow button is only really needed when climbing long grades or hills (and the polaris is 1,200-1,700Lbs ish. I switch the button on when im start to nocice the tranny shifter or "working" Im wondering on the flat land untill i get in the mountains if its necessary at all ?

Ive hauled two bikes in the bed over those mountain ranges a dozen times without a hiccup, but this is a trailer and two more bikes so im wondering what some of the do's and dont's are ?

Should i consider pulling over on occasion and letting things cool off (while climbing)
What Psi should i run in the truck ? on the trailer ? etc..

anyways, who's hauled some loads over the mountains before, what advice can you offer ?

I think my trucks rated at 10,000 plus towing capacity but this is a 500 mile trip each way and 1/3 of its over mountain hilly roads.
 
I have a regular 2000 ex-cab Silverado, with 220,000 miles on the 5.3 Vortec. Based on my experience, you will be perfectly fine in your 4x4 HD model. You are only utilizing about 50% of its capacity. Air up your tires all the way around.

Leave the tow/haul button ON for the whole trip, flatlands included. No need to "let things cool off". Your temp gauge on your instrument cluster can monitor things.
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I have a regular 2000 ex-cab Silverado, with 220,000 miles on the 5.3 Vortec. Based on my experience, you will be perfectly fine in your 4x4 HD model. You are only utilizing about 50% of its capacity. Air up your tires all the way around.

Leave the tow/haul button ON for the whole trip, flatlands included. No need to "let things cool off". Your temp gauge on your instrument cluster can monitor things.


I have coolant temp guage on my truck and a oil pressure guage, nothing for tranny temperature. thats why i was curious about pulling over and letting things cool.
 
I don't think you will have any temp issues in the trans or anywhere else. The T/H button electronically adjusts the shift points, which eases the burden on a loaded drive train. Your truck is designed for the task. Just use the button the whole time.
 
Next question, there is only two bikes on the trailer, its been put to me by a co-worker should i even worry about electric brakes on the trailer ? Remembering that there are only going to be two bikes on the trailer.. so roughtly with the trailer 2,200LBS being towed
 
I would use the electric brakes. Mainly because if you are about to hit a deer it may help you stop 10 feet sooner. Could really help save a good trip.
 
I'm sure your owners manual say you need trailer brakes, and I guess if you want to do 85mph in the rain, then you probably should. If you're nearer 65mph then I wouldn't worry about it with a loaded full size truck . At 50mph or less I tow something near 2200lbs without trailer brakes with the Tracker and feel perfectly safe, but that's only under ideal conditions.
 
I don't know the specifics of the law -- but I can tell you I have towed more than that with my (somewhat) lighter truck, with no issues.
 
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Let me first say that im sure my trucks up to the task, im just putting this out there for conversation and to get second opinions etc..

I have the ext cab 1500 5.3 ltr 4x4 Silverado with 73,000 on the clock, at 70,000 miles the tranny, diffs, and Syn oil were changed. Last summer i pulled the lower hose on the radiator and drained what was in there and refilled. My trucks got the trailer/haul button. I have a 12 foot open utility trailer (it s a single axle). I think only the HD Silverado's models came with a tranny cooler, although i could be wrong, i will have to have a closer look at my truck. With that said im planning on putting two motorcycles in the bed and two more motorcycles on the trailer (Each motorcycle weighing 430-460ish pounds each so roughly 2,000 lbs worth of bikes, The trailers probably 1,000-1,200 lbs itself another 250 ish lbs of gear, and 4 adult men ranging between 170-230lbs each. On flat Indiana land driving around with this load is nothing, i already know this, However im taking this crew over the smokey mountain's. Ive never hauled this kind of load over a mountain range before.

my rough math says im hauling 4050 lbs (roughly with passengers) I have every intention of using the tow haul button in the hilly areas, and of course in the mountains.. i dont think its realy necessary (or is it ?) on the flat lands ? I haul my Polaris Ranger around on this trailer and the tow button is only really needed when climbing long grades or hills (and the polaris is 1,200-1,700Lbs ish. I switch the button on when im start to nocice the tranny shifter or "working" Im wondering on the flat land untill i get in the mountains if its necessary at all ?

Ive hauled two bikes in the bed over those mountain ranges a dozen times without a hiccup, but this is a trailer and two more bikes so im wondering what some of the do's and dont's are ?

Should i consider pulling over on occasion and letting things cool off (while climbing)
What Psi should i run in the truck ? on the trailer ? etc..

anyways, who's hauled some loads over the mountains before, what advice can you offer ?

I think my trucks rated at 10,000 plus towing capacity but this is a 500 mile trip each way and 1/3 of its over mountain hilly roads.



If you were to tow a 10K trailer you would really know a heavy trailer was behind you. Thats typically what a 3/4 ton pickup is rated at. But even so I think you are fine.

You need to separate the in vehicle load and the towed load. And stay below each. Base payload is 1603 lbs if I remember correctly.
 
Electric brakes are well worth it, especially since your truck should already be ready to accept a brake control unit. Set up properly, your stopping distances should be comparable to running unloaded.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase
Electric brakes are well worth it, especially since your truck should already be ready to accept a brake control unit. Set up properly, your stopping distances should be comparable to running unloaded.


My trucks already got a brake controller installed. my trailer is not equiped though so i dont know what kind of money i would be looking at to install.

Im going to be running 55-65 mph most of the way. and this (with trailer weight) should be about 2,100 to 2,200 lbs behind the truck.
 
If the trailer had them, connect them up. If youre going to be doing this kind of thing more, it cant help. Ive pulled 50+ foot crew trailers, fully loaded, and you can definitely feel the difference with and without the electric brakes, and when they are set up right. Those trailers are 10k or more, so youve got a far shorter and easier job, but might as well save your truck brakes and put the braking dynamics in your favor if they can be retrofit.

But Id not worry about it this trip, unless you can do it quick and easy. Just know you dont have them, learn the braking dynamics in a safe area, and be doubly careful.
 
I agree. I read what you said as the trailer having brakes. Not worth it for one trip.

I pull a 3200 lb boat/trailer with my truck. It still stops fine and is far older and has far less swept area than your truck.
 
Don't ride the brakes. Get on them,slow down and get back off them.

Don't be afraid to manually downshift the transmission to add some engine braking to the trucks service brakes.

Remember that trailer tires are only rated for 65 MPH.
 
Originally Posted By: Stewart Fan
Don't ride the brakes. Get on them,slow down and get back off them.

Don't be afraid to manually downshift the transmission to add some engine braking to the trucks service brakes.

Remember that trailer tires are only rated for 65 MPH.


Great tips, much appreciated..
 
so there's 3,000 miles on the Mobil 1 5-30 in the sump, and its close to a year old (trucks sits in the garage alot) its not my D.D. this will be a severe duty trip in my opinion, dump it or run it for this trip and then change when i get it home ? .. for the record im thinking its fine but im covering my bases and getting the opinions.
 
I have done vegas to boston. A bunch of times with that much weight. No special precautions. Make sure trailer is set up correct and go.
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
so there's 3,000 miles on the Mobil 1 5-30


Its MOBIL 1 with just 3000 miles. Good to go for LOT more.
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