Locknuts

[JHZR2]

These two locknuts fit the same thread, for the same application. The one has a plastic internal liner, and uses a washer, the other seems to be an "all in one", but is all metal.

The one with the plastic inside is 22mm, while the other kind is 21mm.

Is there a reason to select one kind over the other?

Thanks!

 

[Rand]

I'm not sure I would consider the all-in-one nut to be a locknut.

 

[Kool1]

I would not use the one with the plastic insert in a high heat application (near the exhaust).

 

[spasm3]

I assume those are the top nuts on your struts? I have used both and have never had either back off. (spring tension probably keeps it from turning much). If is a newer car that i may keep , i have used antiseizure ( i know its anti-seize) on the threads. I use the anti-seize in case i have to do the job in the future and need to get the doggone things off again.

 

[moklock]

The second 'pinched' type is used more often in automotive applications from what i've seen. Nylon insert locknuts are used on some tie rod ends though. Either would prolly be OK in a low temp environment.

 

[Chris142]

Imo the all in one works better. They smash the sides so it locks onto a larger part of the threads than a nyloc nut does.

 

[Warstud]

The one on top is a lock nut with a nylon insert. The bottom is a flange nut. They both resist loosening. What's the application?

 

[DSparks]

Yep the all in one is called a stover nut..much better..

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Warstud
The one on top is a lock nut with a nylon insert. The bottom is a flange nut. They both resist loosening. What's the application?


Strut top nut.

 

[spackard]

The first one I think of as a NyLok.
Used in aerospace, or at least used to be.
It'll really wear out your wrist if you have a bunch of them on an assembly. In my experience they don't last through too many cycles of loosening and tightening. So, you'd have to have another on hand of the same size when that time comes. They also take more free threads, which you may not have on a small assembly if you didn't plan on using them in the first place.

 

[jorton]

The nut on the bottom may not be high temp either. It looks yellow. High temp nuts are corrosion resisting steel and they're not plated. Some are lubricated with dry film lube. In some aerospace applications a lock nut can be used only one time.

 

[tom slick]

The flanged lock nut is easier to inventory, assemble correctly, and handle with automated machinery. The nylock and washer is cheaper to manufacture.

 

[eljefino]

I'm not a fan of the bottom one, they seem too tight when reassembling, particularly if you're trying to hold a stud that goes through it to keep said stud from spinning. The nylock ones heat up when you thread them on and if you keep going without stopping they go a little easier from the heat.

It also looks used; from a liability standpoint you should go with the new hardware. The external hex size doesn't really matter; in automotive everyone seems to cheat and use a smaller-than-standard size.

 

[Smoky14]

Just make sure you consider the prevailing torque.

 

[Doog]

Just use some blue loctite if you are worried about it coming off. And use a split spring lock washer.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

The locknuts with plastic inserts are one time use, also not allowed in certain applications.

Wayne

 

[metalboy]

The top kind is a nylock and they're usually only good for a couple of installs and not anywhere near serious heat.

The second kind is an "all-metal" and they're usually better but the cheap versions tend to tear up the male thread on removal. Milspec all-metal or "jet" nuts are the bee's knee's though.

 

[paulo57509]

Ducati uses "Fuji" nuts. They're one time use just like elastic stop nuts.

http://www.fun.co.jp/english/products/unut01.html