Lisle 18980 Pneumatic U-Joint Driver.

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Here is the tool at USA Tool Warehouse http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/LIS-18980-p-LIS.html Strangely enough, Lisle does not list this tool on their own site, what up with that? http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_index.cfm Anyway, getting to my question, how is this tool used? I can see a hammer bit, like this one http://www.ajaxtools.com/prodlist.php?dept_id=20&model_id=102&product_id=214#214 being used to drive out a u-joint cup from a cross. The Lisle tool has a ear at its end, what is the purpose of the ear?
 
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That looks like a nice tool. It drives the yoke down to remove the cap, vs driving the cap out with your air hammer. Eliminates the chance of deforming(spreading) the yoke ends when replacing a joint.
 

George7941

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Why does the ear on the tool go only part way around the tool? One would expect a full ear to drive the yoke out more evenly, instead of cocking it. If you were disassembling a half-round yoke and you have separated the two halves of the driveshaft already then the tool cannot be used since now we have no means of supporting the cross while the yoke is being driven out. Am I right?
 

George7941

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Thanks, Punisher, I have it all figured out now. The ear just locates the tool on the yoke but does not do the actual driving.
 
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Yup. You either support the opposite bearing cap, or the crosspiece and drive the yoke down. Our old front end tech always told me to do u-joints like that. He did it like you would with that tool, but with a regular round tip. You had to be careful not to let your hammer wander too much.
 

George7941

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One more question, punisher. Does this tool work while the driveshaft is on the vehicle or did you always take the shaft off and have one end supported on a vise?
 

George7941

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 Originally Posted By: punisher
Yup. You either support the opposite bearing cap, or the crosspiece and drive the yoke down. Our old front end tech always told me to do u-joints like that. He did it like you would with that tool, but with a regular round tip. You had to be careful not to let your hammer wander too much.
Yet another question. Was your front end guy using a solid hammer tip to drive the cap down or was he using a hollow tip to drive the yoke down? The way I interpret your reply, he must have been using a hollow tip to drive the yoke down. I haven't seen hollow bits in catalogues, other than the Lisle bit. I e-mailed Lisle and they said the 18980 is in their catalogue, they just haven't gotten around to updating their website yet.
 
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He used a solid hammer on the yoke just behind the bearing cup to drive the yoke down over the cup. Like I said you have to be careful. If the hammer wanders you can dent the driveshaft tube.
 
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some are just FUGGIN STUBORN. I fought the 220K mile stocker in my superduty for hours. The 40 ton shop press just shrugged it off. Finally I got it pressed out just enough to run a weld bead around it. finally got it to shrink enough I could beat it out with a drift. all because I stripped the 12 point bolt holding the straps on. when I cut through the strap to get the bolt off I knicked the [censored] bearing cap. Other wise the joint was fine
 
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 Originally Posted By: Dualie
some are just FUGGIN STUBORN. all because I stripped the 12 point bolt holding the straps on. when I cut through the strap to get the bolt off I knicked the [censored] bearing cap. Other wise the joint was fine
If you ever plan on removing a driveshaft fron a FoMoCo product more than once, invest in a quality 12mm/12pt 3/8 drive impact flex socket. That factory loctite is evil.
 
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