License plate screws

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Recently bought a used 2012 Mazda5.

The rear license plate screws were very difficult to get out. I stripped the heads and wound up using a vice-grip to get them out. They weren't overly rusted so I just want to make sure that I have the right ones before I go to Home Depot and try to match them. The parts guy at the local dealership was not helpful. They aren't the self-tapping kind. Anyone know how I can find out for sure what the right kind of screw is?
 
Go to an old-line hardware store. Take the screw with you. Find a nut that fits the old screw, from the loose assortment selection they have. That will tell you what size and thread it is. Match and buy new ones. I go stainless w/anti-seize when possible.
 
The hardware store should have a gauge in the isle where the nuts and bolts are. Some are a plate that you can thread the bolt into or some are actually nuts welded to a plate, either way they are marked so you know what size you need.

If you go old-line, as suggested above, there may be someone there that will be able to tell you by looking at it! I have come across a couple older gentlemen in HD type stores like that but not many.
 
For my old Jeep, I went to Home Depot and got all stainless hardware. I literally had to melt out the old bolts/screws with a torch. Yay, livin on the coast.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
plastic



Would advise against plastic screws. The sun's UV will weaken them and they'll later snap or get very brittle.

Go for stainless hardware.
 
I hate when you spend $25K or $30K on a car and the dealer has used 02 cent screws that will rust before you get the new car home.

A VW Passat I owned had several of the license plate bolts snap as I was pulling the plate to give the car to new owner.

My Volvo had SS studs and SS acorn nuts. All cars should.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I hate when you spend $25K or $30K on a car and the dealer has used 02 cent screws that will rust before you get the new car home.

A VW Passat I owned had several of the license plate bolts snap as I was pulling the plate to give the car to new owner.

My Volvo had SS studs and SS acorn nuts. All cars should.



My dealer's parts guy just gave me the OEM hardware -- stainless screws.
 
1/4-20 threads, that's what I used. Well actually they are 1/4-20x1/2 button head cap screws, stainless steel. The internal hex drive makes them mildly tamper resistant.
 
"License plate screws" from the hardware section of Wal-Mart. Came 4 to a pack, with nuts. They're probably a standard size, because they fit for me.
 
Total side note:
I haven't done it yet but there was a link/tip long ago that covered spare keys for cars. It involved either a plastic key or now regular metal with a plastidip coating, drilled at the head a little larger than your plate screw. Get the flat tip screws and place the key behind your plate on the screw. Install screw with only a quarter or similar to tighten. Use anti seize on threads to make sure it doesn't rust. This way if you need to get into car all you need is a quarter. It's also hidden more than most of those magnet box ones. How many plates have you seen stolen that need the security screws?

My Sequoia needs the chip key so I had an extra made and programmed and that is hidden inside the vehicle in case I need it. I had a spare plastic hide a box mounted well and IMO hidden well. It was 8 years before I needed it and was still there when needed. The magnet was rusted and not holding any more but the tape wrapped around the whole thing was. I was able to get into the car then get the chipped key and get home.
 
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