I'm on the verge of replacing mine but wanted to know what would be beneficial for my vehicle? I plan on keeping it for as long as possible but was looking into Moog (greaseable option only), other aftermarket or OEM (sealed). I'm leaning towards Moog for cost effectiveness but wasn't sure if a greaseable lower ball joint for this vehicle would be good or in general be worth it overall vs sealed lower ball joints?
Lexus IS-F lower ball joint greaseable vs sealed?
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I think grease-able is better but that assumes you can keep the grease monkeys from shooting a giant amount of grease into the fitting, damaging the rubber boot.
Originally Posted by Donald
I think grease-able is better but that assumes you can keep the grease monkeys from shooting a giant amount of grease into the fitting, damaging the rubber boot.
I don't mind adding grease myself. It's just I never used regreaseable suspension components before and I wasn't sure if it's worth it over a sealed unit? Also, do the zerk fittings on some of them that require you to thread into the ball joint need to be removed if not greasing? Some show them permanently installed while some show you can take the fittings on and off.
I think grease-able is better but that assumes you can keep the grease monkeys from shooting a giant amount of grease into the fitting, damaging the rubber boot.
I don't mind adding grease myself. It's just I never used regreaseable suspension components before and I wasn't sure if it's worth it over a sealed unit? Also, do the zerk fittings on some of them that require you to thread into the ball joint need to be removed if not greasing? Some show them permanently installed while some show you can take the fittings on and off.
Although not LBJ's, I have Moog greasable tie rods. I find them to be a PITA. Here in the rust belt, the Zerk fittings get clogged with gunk. If I don't grease them every couple of thousand miles, the steering gets notchy. I dislike getting under my car a few months before an oil change is due to do this.
Just get OE ball joints, or quality sealed aftermarket, like Sankei 555 (likely the OEM anyway).
Just get OE ball joints, or quality sealed aftermarket, like Sankei 555 (likely the OEM anyway).
In my experience, modern non greasable last longer than properly serviced greaseable components.
Greasable stuff bleeds out grease meaning it can also injest water and grit.
Greasable stuff bleeds out grease meaning it can also injest water and grit.
Careful what you buy,
I bought Moog Tie Rod Ends because they had zerk fittings.
The grease was held in place by a 'plastic' Cover.
The grease was always coming out the bottom and making a mess.
Finally I replaced with 'sealed' OEM and have been happy ever since.
This topic has been brought up before and one person wrote,
"in the 60's and 70's, everything had zerk fittings and they were always changing Front End parts.
I bought Moog Tie Rod Ends because they had zerk fittings.
The grease was held in place by a 'plastic' Cover.
The grease was always coming out the bottom and making a mess.
Finally I replaced with 'sealed' OEM and have been happy ever since.
This topic has been brought up before and one person wrote,
"in the 60's and 70's, everything had zerk fittings and they were always changing Front End parts.
Go with Moog and don't worry about greasing it as it won't last very long
If you care about your car and won't sell it in a year or so go with OE parts.
Also balljoints are better replaced in pairs.
If you care about your car and won't sell it in a year or so go with OE parts.
Also balljoints are better replaced in pairs.
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Originally Posted by Lubener
Go with greasable Moog problem solvers and you will not have to replace them again, if you grease them. Stay away from any non greasable ones including OEM. If they are so good, you wouldn't be replacing them in the first place.
Yeah that's the thing about OEM is that I've seen them dry rot depending where you live and still failed under 80K miles on some vehicles and some people had better luck with aftermarket but then again, some didn't.
Go with greasable Moog problem solvers and you will not have to replace them again, if you grease them. Stay away from any non greasable ones including OEM. If they are so good, you wouldn't be replacing them in the first place.
Yeah that's the thing about OEM is that I've seen them dry rot depending where you live and still failed under 80K miles on some vehicles and some people had better luck with aftermarket but then again, some didn't.
OEM and sealed gets my vote. OEM parts last a long time on Toyota/Lexus vehicles.
Originally Posted by Pelican
Go with Moog and don't worry about greasing it as it won't last very long
If you care about your car and won't sell it in a year or so go with OE parts.
Also balljoints are better replaced in pairs.
That's usually the general census but even then I've seen OEMs either last for over 200K+ miles or fail within less than 80K miles. It's hit or miss and environment where you live comes to play for both OEM and aftermarket. I guess what makes aftermarket more appealing is price. The OEM lower ball joints are almost $100 a piece and this is without replacement hardware. Also, I already planning on doing them all. I never replace one single suspension component in any of my vehicles at a time.
Go with Moog and don't worry about greasing it as it won't last very long
If you care about your car and won't sell it in a year or so go with OE parts.
Also balljoints are better replaced in pairs.
That's usually the general census but even then I've seen OEMs either last for over 200K+ miles or fail within less than 80K miles. It's hit or miss and environment where you live comes to play for both OEM and aftermarket. I guess what makes aftermarket more appealing is price. The OEM lower ball joints are almost $100 a piece and this is without replacement hardware. Also, I already planning on doing them all. I never replace one single suspension component in any of my vehicles at a time.
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So they are worn out or sticking? Why are you replacing them?
I have never, ever had "luck" with greaseable joints on my cars, the Moog Problem Solver joints have been of a much lesser quality than any OEM joints I have used. The only aftermarket ones that I have seen work are Sankei 555, those used to be OEM for my Toyota cars but the last time the OEM were not 555. I would stay away from anything but OEM or Sankei.
But still, why are you replacing them? I've not seen any OEM Lexus/Toyota ball joints fail in under 100,000 miles, generally much longer than that. If the boot is not torn or they are worn out or sticking then I would not replace them just because.
I have never, ever had "luck" with greaseable joints on my cars, the Moog Problem Solver joints have been of a much lesser quality than any OEM joints I have used. The only aftermarket ones that I have seen work are Sankei 555, those used to be OEM for my Toyota cars but the last time the OEM were not 555. I would stay away from anything but OEM or Sankei.
But still, why are you replacing them? I've not seen any OEM Lexus/Toyota ball joints fail in under 100,000 miles, generally much longer than that. If the boot is not torn or they are worn out or sticking then I would not replace them just because.
OEM Toyota/Lexus is my pick. Moog doesn't make greaseable ones for imports unless it's certain problem children. Wait until you have slop in your suspension, Toyota OEM joints do last a pretty long time.
Originally Posted by nthach
OEM Toyota/Lexus is my pick. Moog doesn't make greaseable ones for imports unless it's certain problem children. Wait until you have slop in your suspension, Toyota OEM joints do last a pretty long time.
Moog makes them for the IS-F with zerk fittings. Moog part number K500124 for the front lower left ball joint for my Lexus IS-F.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/09/full-79323-36205-shopping.jpeg.jpg "[Linked Image]")
OEM Toyota/Lexus is my pick. Moog doesn't make greaseable ones for imports unless it's certain problem children. Wait until you have slop in your suspension, Toyota OEM joints do last a pretty long time.
Moog makes them for the IS-F with zerk fittings. Moog part number K500124 for the front lower left ball joint for my Lexus IS-F.
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Originally Posted by kschachn
So they are worn out or sticking? Why are you replacing them?
I have never, ever had "luck" with greaseable joints on my cars, the Moog Problem Solver joints have been of a much lesser quality than any OEM joints I have used. The only aftermarket ones that I have seen work are Sankei 555, those used to be OEM for my Toyota cars but the last time the OEM were not 555. I would stay away from anything but OEM or Sankei.
But still, why are you replacing them? I've not seen any OEM Lexus/Toyota ball joints fail in under 100,000 miles, generally much longer than that. If the boot is not torn or they are worn out or sticking then I would not replace them just because.
My 2010 IS-F had over 152K miles on it. There was some squeaking on my driver front side and with age and mileage I figure I go ahead and change them out along with other suspension components. The IS-F is not like any other vehicle that one can simply just lift up with a basic car jack to do basic car maintenance. The car needs an extended low profile jack that can reach behind the engine or in the rear LSD because those are the only two jack points to lift without causing damage.
So they are worn out or sticking? Why are you replacing them?
I have never, ever had "luck" with greaseable joints on my cars, the Moog Problem Solver joints have been of a much lesser quality than any OEM joints I have used. The only aftermarket ones that I have seen work are Sankei 555, those used to be OEM for my Toyota cars but the last time the OEM were not 555. I would stay away from anything but OEM or Sankei.
But still, why are you replacing them? I've not seen any OEM Lexus/Toyota ball joints fail in under 100,000 miles, generally much longer than that. If the boot is not torn or they are worn out or sticking then I would not replace them just because.
My 2010 IS-F had over 152K miles on it. There was some squeaking on my driver front side and with age and mileage I figure I go ahead and change them out along with other suspension components. The IS-F is not like any other vehicle that one can simply just lift up with a basic car jack to do basic car maintenance. The car needs an extended low profile jack that can reach behind the engine or in the rear LSD because those are the only two jack points to lift without causing damage.
OEM or Proforged. I couldn't find Sankei 555 ball joints for your car, but if you can find them, they are excellent
Delphi might not be too bad, either. It's listed as made in Turkey, so it is probably made by Disa/Deeza
Delphi might not be too bad, either. It's listed as made in Turkey, so it is probably made by Disa/Deeza
Go with LFL joints. All this talk about greasable lasting longer is to be taken with a grain of salt. Back when every joint was outfitted with a grease fitting we did more joint replacements than almost anything else, ask me, I did many hundreds of them over the decades.
Sending a 23 year old Subaru to the junk yard this week (sans 2.2 ej closed deck engine and awd drive train) with its original joints and tie rods in place and it lived in the salt belt its whole life inc winters.
Use OE joints from an online dealer and be done with it. JMHO
Sending a 23 year old Subaru to the junk yard this week (sans 2.2 ej closed deck engine and awd drive train) with its original joints and tie rods in place and it lived in the salt belt its whole life inc winters.
Use OE joints from an online dealer and be done with it. JMHO
Originally Posted by Trav
Go with LFL joints. All this talk about greasable lasting longer is to be taken with a grain of salt. Back when every joint was outfitted with a grease fitting we did more joint replacements than almost anything else, ask me, I did many hundreds of them over the decades.
Sending a 23 year old Subaru to the junk yard this week (sans 2.2 ej closed deck engine and awd drive train) with its original joints and tie rods in place and it lived in the salt belt its whole life inc winters.
Use OE joints from an online dealer and be done with it. JMHO
I 2nd Trav and stated earlier In my experience, modern non greasable last longer than properly serviced greaseable components.
Go with LFL joints. All this talk about greasable lasting longer is to be taken with a grain of salt. Back when every joint was outfitted with a grease fitting we did more joint replacements than almost anything else, ask me, I did many hundreds of them over the decades.
Sending a 23 year old Subaru to the junk yard this week (sans 2.2 ej closed deck engine and awd drive train) with its original joints and tie rods in place and it lived in the salt belt its whole life inc winters.
Use OE joints from an online dealer and be done with it. JMHO
I 2nd Trav and stated earlier In my experience, modern non greasable last longer than properly serviced greaseable components.
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