Lexus GS300 coolant drain help

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I need to hear you opinions on a couple of items. I plan on changing my radiator coolant this weekend in my Lexus. It's doesn't have Toyota Red in it now, actually some yellow/gold fluid, so I plan to change it to a OEM equivalent. Toyota Red is $30/gallon here. I plan on using either Zerex Asian premix or Peak Global full strength since they both work with Asian cars and cheaper. Ok now on to my questions...

My car has a total capacity of 8.1qts. I plan on doing multiple drain/fills with heater blasting (thinking 3 should do it) with distilled water until the fluid comes out clear. I know I have drain plugs on the engine, but I don't feel like dealing with them because they are hard to get to. Once clear and everything is sealed up, instead of pouring 1 full gallon of coolant and 1 gallon of distilled water for the 50/50 mix, why can't I just use two Zerex Asian gallon coolant? That will be approximately the same as the first option right? Even if I go with full strength, I'm going to need two gallons of full strength for the mixing process so costs should all equal the same. After looking at the MSDS of Zerex, the coolant percentage is between 45-50% and of course the rest is distilled water. My thought process is that I can just add two gallons of Zerex and it should equate to the first option of using full strength and gallon of distilled water.

What do you all think? Oh, I've never done a coolant change out before so if you have any helpful tips, please let me know. Below are the steps I plan on doing. If you see anything missing, let me know.

1. Drive car on incline ramps and locate drain butterfly on bottom of radiator and unscrew until fluid pours out of drain tube.

2. Tighten drain cap and fill radiator with 1 gallon of water.

3. Tighten radiator cap and let car run for 4-5 minutes with heater on high to release fluid in heater core.

4. Let fluid cool and drain from radiator. I plan on doing steps 1-4 multiple drain/fills until fluid comes out clear.

5. After fluid is clear, tighten radiator drain bolt and pour in two gallons of the Zerex Asian premix fluid to give me the 50/50 ratio for system capacity.

6. Leave radiator cap off and let car run with heater high and monitor water level in radiator. System will "burp" itself so level might drop a little. Step in car and raise rpm to help with burp. If level drops, add to radiator. (how long should I let car run in this step)

7. Once level is steady, put cap on radiator and I'm done.

Are my steps above ok? When do I add fluid to coolant reservoir? Will fluid automatically transfer there once radiator is full?

Sorry for long post, but knowledge is useful. The dealer wanted to charge me $200 for this job.
 
Will this engine need a timing belt soon ? Might as well wait to change the fluid with the belt. Esp if you will be doing a new water pump. Or do teh belt now If you want to get the wrong coolant out.

If I had a 2002 Lexus with under 100k I would spend the money for the Toyota OEM Super Long Life coolant. It's good for 100K.

After filling the radiator fill the reservoir (to the full line). It'll need to pull from the reservoir as it purges air pockets.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: NightRiderQ45
I need to hear you opinions on a couple of items. I plan on changing my radiator coolant this weekend in my Lexus. It's doesn't have Toyota Red in it now, actually some yellow/gold fluid, so I plan to change it to a OEM equivalent. Toyota Red is $30/gallon here. I plan on using either Zerex Asian premix or Peak Global full strength since they both work with Asian cars and cheaper. Ok now on to my questions...

My car has a total capacity of 8.1qts. I plan on doing multiple drain/fills with heater blasting (thinking 3 should do it) with distilled water until the fluid comes out clear. I know I have drain plugs on the engine, but I don't feel like dealing with them because they are hard to get to. Once clear and everything is sealed up, instead of pouring 1 full gallon of coolant and 1 gallon of distilled water for the 50/50 mix, why can't I just use two Zerex Asian gallon coolant? That will be approximately the same as the first option right? Even if I go with full strength, I'm going to need two gallons of full strength for the mixing process so costs should all equal the same. After looking at the MSDS of Zerex, the coolant percentage is between 45-50% and of course the rest is distilled water. My thought process is that I can just add two gallons of Zerex and it should equate to the first option of using full strength and gallon of distilled water.

What do you all think? Oh, I've never done a coolant change out before so if you have any helpful tips, please let me know.


The potential problem here with refilling with premix is you plan to fill the system with water and multiple radiator drain and fills to flush the system. You could very well only be able to drain half the water and adding premix you might end up with 25% concentrate. If you were just draining the radiator or also the block and not adding water to flush, the premix would work. I'd sugggest getting at least a gallon of Peak Global concentrate and putting it in.


Quote:
Below are the steps I plan on doing. If you see anything missing, let me know.

1. Drive car on incline ramps and locate drain butterfly on bottom of radiator and unscrew until fluid pours out of drain tube.

2. Tighten drain cap and fill radiator with 1 gallon of water.

3. Tighten radiator cap and let car run for 4-5 minutes with heater on high to release fluid in heater core.

4. Let fluid cool and drain from radiator. I plan on doing steps 1-4 multiple drain/fills until fluid comes out clear.

5. After fluid is clear, tighten radiator drain bolt and pour in two gallons of the Zerex Asian premix fluid to give me the 50/50 ratio for system capacity.

6. Leave radiator cap off and let car run with heater high and monitor water level in radiator. System will "burp" itself so level might drop a little. Step in car and raise rpm to help with burp. If level drops, add to radiator. (how long should I let car run in this step)

7. Once level is steady, put cap on radiator and I'm done.

Are my steps above ok? When do I add fluid to coolant reservoir? Will fluid automatically transfer there once radiator is full?

Sorry for long post, but knowledge is useful. The dealer wanted to charge me $200 for this job.


That's basically how it could be done. You might just leave the radiator cap off and continue to add water as the engine is ran to bleed the air out. You would probably also want the car level when draining the radiator to get maximum drainage. If you can get easy access you might consider removing the T-stat and temporarily attaching the housing and unhook the hose from the radiator to quickly flush the water through the system. You might want to change the T-stat anyway. You might be able to unhook the heater return hose to accomplish the same thing. But doing the multiple radiator drain and fills would work, it's just time consuming. I'd probably just open the block drains and call it good unless they were really inaccessible. When refilling the overflow bottle you would want add equal amounts of antifreeze and water.
 
Originally Posted By: MonumentOiler
Will this engine need a timing belt soon ? Might as well wait to change the fluid with the belt. Esp if you will be doing a new water pump. Or do teh belt now If you want to get the wrong coolant out.

If I had a 2002 Lexus with under 100k I would spend the money for the Toyota OEM Super Long Life coolant. It's good for 100K.

After filling the radiator fill the reservoir (to the full line). It'll need to pull from the reservoir as it purges air pockets.
No I haven't done the timing belt yet. The radiator doesn't need to be removed during this process right? My WP isn't leaking and I don't plan on replacing it unless it leaks between now and then. The WP on the GS3 is accessible by drive belt. On the GS4, it makes sense to change WP during the service.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Originally Posted By: NightRiderQ45
I need to hear you opinions on a couple of items. I plan on changing my radiator coolant this weekend in my Lexus. It's doesn't have Toyota Red in it now, actually some yellow/gold fluid, so I plan to change it to a OEM equivalent. Toyota Red is $30/gallon here. I plan on using either Zerex Asian premix or Peak Global full strength since they both work with Asian cars and cheaper. Ok now on to my questions...

My car has a total capacity of 8.1qts. I plan on doing multiple drain/fills with heater blasting (thinking 3 should do it) with distilled water until the fluid comes out clear. I know I have drain plugs on the engine, but I don't feel like dealing with them because they are hard to get to. Once clear and everything is sealed up, instead of pouring 1 full gallon of coolant and 1 gallon of distilled water for the 50/50 mix, why can't I just use two Zerex Asian gallon coolant? That will be approximately the same as the first option right? Even if I go with full strength, I'm going to need two gallons of full strength for the mixing process so costs should all equal the same. After looking at the MSDS of Zerex, the coolant percentage is between 45-50% and of course the rest is distilled water. My thought process is that I can just add two gallons of Zerex and it should equate to the first option of using full strength and gallon of distilled water.

What do you all think? Oh, I've never done a coolant change out before so if you have any helpful tips, please let me know.


The potential problem here with refilling with premix is you plan to fill the system with water and multiple radiator drain and fills to flush the system. You could very well only be able to drain half the water and adding premix you might end up with 25% concentrate. If you were just draining the radiator or also the block and not adding water to flush, the premix would work. I'd sugggest getting at least a gallon of Peak Global concentrate and putting it in.


Quote:
Below are the steps I plan on doing. If you see anything missing, let me know.

1. Drive car on incline ramps and locate drain butterfly on bottom of radiator and unscrew until fluid pours out of drain tube.

2. Tighten drain cap and fill radiator with 1 gallon of water.

3. Tighten radiator cap and let car run for 4-5 minutes with heater on high to release fluid in heater core.

4. Let fluid cool and drain from radiator. I plan on doing steps 1-4 multiple drain/fills until fluid comes out clear.

5. After fluid is clear, tighten radiator drain bolt and pour in two gallons of the Zerex Asian premix fluid to give me the 50/50 ratio for system capacity.

6. Leave radiator cap off and let car run with heater high and monitor water level in radiator. System will "burp" itself so level might drop a little. Step in car and raise rpm to help with burp. If level drops, add to radiator. (how long should I let car run in this step)

7. Once level is steady, put cap on radiator and I'm done.

Are my steps above ok? When do I add fluid to coolant reservoir? Will fluid automatically transfer there once radiator is full?

Sorry for long post, but knowledge is useful. The dealer wanted to charge me $200 for this job.


That's basically how it could be done. You might just leave the radiator cap off and continue to add water as the engine is ran to bleed the air out. You would probably also want the car level when draining the radiator to get maximum drainage. If you can get easy access you might consider removing the T-stat and temporarily attaching the housing and unhook the hose from the radiator to quickly flush the water through the system. You might want to change the T-stat anyway. You might be able to unhook the heater return hose to accomplish the same thing. But doing the multiple radiator drain and fills would work, it's just time consuming. I'd probably just open the block drains and call it good unless they were really inaccessible. When refilling the overflow bottle you would want add equal amounts of antifreeze and water.
Thanks for your response! It was very helpful. The more I think about it, the multiple drain and refill will be time consuming. I wish I could just do a drain and refill with Peak Global or Zerex Asain, but I don't think those two fluid can mix with existing right? Could cause a sludging problem.
 
Originally Posted By: NightRiderQ45
.................. I plan to change it to a OEM equivalent. Toyota Red is $30/gallon here. I plan on using either Zerex Asian premix or Peak Global full strength since they both work with Asian cars and cheaper............


Japanese manufacturers use a silicate free, phosphated HOAT coolant in their vehicles. The Zerex Asian meets those criteria, but does the Peak Global?
 
If its the 3.0 Toyota (1MZ-FE???), it should have block drain son the front and rear. Look on the side of the engine, there should be a bolt head sticking out and and little steel tube. The rear one is tucked up by the exhaust.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
If its the 3.0 Toyota (1MZ-FE???), it should have block drain son the front and rear. Look on the side of the engine, there should be a bolt head sticking out and and little steel tube. The rear one is tucked up by the exhaust.


Yeah it's not bad to use those drains. You can slip a piece of tubing over the outlet and it makes no mess at all. Unlike most of my other cars where it just sprays out at random and hits anything and everything on the way down.
 
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