Lets here all that like Mineral oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
353
Location
Australia
Lets here from all the Positive things people have to say about Mineral oils.

99.999999% of people and posts on this site are bagging Mineral oils, but lets here from People that favour them, or have comments that outline their qualities. There are bound to be success stories and people that have found them reliable so lets here all the positive things people can say or stand up and be heard if you are still a believer that a quality mineral oil with good change intervals are still the way to go.
 
Quote:


Lets here from all the Positive things people have to say about Mineral oils.

99.999999% of people and posts on this site are bagging Mineral oils, but lets here from People that favour them, or have comments that outline their qualities. There are bound to be success stories and people that have found them reliable so lets here all the positive things people can say or stand up and be heard if you are still a believer that a quality mineral oil with good change intervals are still the way to go.




I've always considered myself more than .000001% of this board...
tounge2.gif


And you've been here for over 2 years and have never seen any of my postings?
shocked.gif


I'm (Let me go get the quote...)
"Mr.-hardcore-conventional-oil-user Bill"
grin.gif


Yep thats me.
laugh.gif


I've run both and done the UOAs and a Good Conventional oil changed every 4-5k is the best for me. (even the UOAs were better with Conventional oil over Syn)
approved.gif


And it's way cheaper when you use oil that is bought on sale.

I do a oil change incl filter for $5 or less for my 6qt truck or 4 qt car. Thats less that a single quart of Mobil 1 .

If your owners manual says you NEED to run syn or you don't like to get under your car for extended ocis, then run Syn.

But it will cost more and your engine will not be better off. I've seen enough engines that get oil changes with anything last a good long time. (200k+)

Change it with good Conventional and every 4-5k and 300k miles is possible if you take care of the car.

Take care, bill
patriot.gif
 
I dont believe most bag on mineral oils. There is a big difference between todays Group II/Group II+ 5W-20/5w30
and a 1970's era Group I 10W-40. Most here will tell you in most cars there is no advantage to Synthetics until you
get over 6,000-7,500 mi OCI.
 
Quote:


I've always considered myself more than .000001% of this board...And you've been here for over 2 years and have never seen any of my postings?




Jeez, no kidding, Bill...I hadda look twice at that guy, was smelling troll. And yes, YOU Bill, are the first that comes to mind for ANYONE who's read here for 15 minutes, let alone two years, in ANY pro/con question on Dino.

Gotta feeling someone at the top of the thread is trying to do a
rugerman.gif
via
deadhorse.gif
and cause a lot of
fence.gif
leading to
bop.gif
and
spankme.gif
with the inevitable closing of the thread
crushedcar.gif
 
I'm a big fan of mineral oils. Adding a little mineral oil makes the wax softer and melt at a lower temperature...ooops, wrong forum.
wink.gif
grin.gif
 
Quote:


I've always considered myself more than .000001% of this board...





Today, with 14137 members, we are each 0.007074 %
of the board. 7000 times more influential.

I think -- pretty early this morning to be cipherin' so hard,
 
I don't think most on this site are against mineral oil...Not sure where you get that impression from.
 
If I ever buy a car without a turbo again.....I'll be depleting my strategic petroleum reserve of mineral oil.

I do like the 15W40's. And 5W30 conventional goes in the Honda....
 
Just switched back to Dino was on Synthetic for a while and never noticed a difference other than my car is quieter and had no lifter tick now???

Or could that have been the BG 109.
 
My daughter had a sludge engine 1995 Toyota Avalon go 188,000 miles on mineral oil. I tried to have her bring it over every 3,000 miles but it would often go 4-5,000. After wrecking it the third time, we sold it. It was still running strong but had mashed sheet metal and the passenger door was very difficult to open.
 
Quote:


My daughter had a sludge engine 1995 Toyota Avalon go 188,000 miles on mineral oil. I tried to have her bring it over every 3,000 miles but it would often go 4-5,000. After wrecking it the third time, we sold it. It was still running strong but had mashed sheet metal and the passenger door was very difficult to open.




If she was running synthetic oil in there that passenger door would've opened up all by itself just by looking at it!

stooges.gif
 
I don't see many bagging on conventional motor oils. As a matter of fact I find the discussions balanced, honest and fact based for the most part. Most everyone has their prefernces. Todays basic engine oils do an outstanding job. Synthetic oils have some advantages but those advantages may not be of any benefit for most applications. If anything I think the discussions are honest and I see more people posting application based recomendations between Conventional and synthetic than anywhere else. I can't resist, I like oil. I have Mobil 1 0w30, Exxon Superflo 5w30, Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 5w30 and Trop artic in my stash right now. I have been sticking with the Tropartic on my wifes and mine Toyotas.
 
Been using nothing but mineral oil for 13 years of driving now....5 cars.....mainly Pennzoil 5w30, but a smattering of others here and there.....have done oci's of anywhere from 5,000 km's to about 30,000 km's (don't ask - car I was trying to kill...) Never had anything approaching an oil-related problem - even on the car with a 30,000 km oci on Havoline!

The reason? Just too cheap to pony up the extra money for syn!

Cheers!
 
Add me to the list of satisfied mineral oil users. I'm less than 750 miles away from an oil change. The current fill is TropArtic 10w30 (SM). A sample will be drawn and sent off to Blackstone. This is the second consecutive run of this TropArtic synthetic (Grp III) blend in my '03 Sonata's V6 motor. The motor has no known issues nor have any aftermarket "oil enhancers" ever been used in it other than the probability of assembly lube slathered on anything that rubs during build. Results will be posted.
 
I think that the performance difference, for normal engines, between conventional and synthetic isn't the wide gap like it used to be.

With ILSAC GF-4, plus multiple other new specs(OEM or oil industry), the new conventional oils are excellent.

If you have a known tough-on-oil engine(turbo, OEM sludgemonster, extended OCIs), use the synthetic.
 
Quote:


Pennzoil 5w30, have done oci's of anywhere from 5,000 km's to about 30,000 km's




You should have posted on BITOG someone would have paid for a UOA + Fresh Oil and a Filter just to see what a 18,600 mi UOA on Pennzoil Dino looked like.

Actually I ran 27,000 mi on a Group I 10w30 on a 150 bhp LG4 305 Chevy in a 1984 Z28. I was trying to kill it before dropping in a 415" SBC. Last Drag Strip pass I ran with the 305 before giving up was a 15.89 second pass. This was the quickest the 305 had ever gone. The 415 ran 12's off the bottle and 11's on the bottle.
 
In my nearly 30 years of driving and auto maintenance, I never gave a single thought to using synthetics. In fact, I thought it was kind of silly to spend that kind of money...

But then, I found BITOG. After finding out about TBNs, various calculations for what oil change intervals should be, I switched! Three of my cars have oil change indicators, and they go off at around 9K miles even though the manufacturer does not spec synthetic. That's just beyond my comfort level. With synthetic in the crankcase, I just wait for the oil change indicators to go off with the peace of mind that the oil is up to the task.

Having said that, I still plan the oil changes so I'd use dino in the spring or summer with a short OCI to avoid changing oil in the middle of winter.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom