Lens Restoration

[wings&wheels]

Landing light lenses from the Dakota. These are from ~2002 or so and aside from regular washing and occasional waxing with 210 plastic polish, this is the first 'restoration'. The airplane is hangered but does spend a bit of time outdoors and these lenses cruise at ~143kts, mostly in front of 100w halogen lights (recently led). We did not notice any degradation in performance of the lights as the beams project straight to slightly down and the lower portion of the lenses were still very clear. The pics make the clodiness look worse, but it was becoming an appearance issue.

I used fine rubbing compound, 100% cotton rags then finished with Meguires #10 plastic polish. The left one is almost done, i did one more compound cycle, and the right one is untouched. These two products could be good alternative to the headlight resto kits if the lenses are not too far gone.

 

[meep]

Unless it violates an FAA reg, I would paint the finished polished lens with Nu-Pol high gloss clear. It’s on Amazon for $20/can. It’s not the cheapest, but it does block UV which is needed to prevent yellowing. It also dries much harder than typical clear sprays, and actually protects the plastic.

 

[wings&wheels]

Unless it violates an FAA reg, I would paint the finished polished lens with Nu-Pol high gloss clear. It’s on Amazon for $20/can. It’s not the cheapest, but it does block UV which is needed to prevent yellowing. It also dries much harder than typical clear sprays, and actually protects the plastic.

Interesting, as that could help w/ the minor crazing that the compound and polish doesn't address. Thanks!

 

[meep]

Practice on something else first. It’s got a different feel to it. You want one medium coat, wait 30 seconds, and one LIGHT. Let it settle - it will seem orange-peel-ish but will clarify. If you spray on a humid day, it may cloud up at first, but will also clarify. If you over-coat, it won’t give much warning before running. Thus, since it’s a clear lens, give it a practice on a trash can or other plastic surface first so you have a feel.

 

[Nukeman7]

Interesting, as that could help w/ the minor crazing that the compound and polish doesn't address. Thanks!

I tried using the U-Pol #1 Clear Coat on a few polished headlight lenses and the spray does not level well at all. It was either orange peel texture or runny...could not get it right after trying on 6 different headlight assemblies that were removed from the vehicles. I suggest getting the SprayMax 2K Clear Coat instead for the same price (~$24) on Amazon. You will need to use a proper respirator with the SprayMax 2K since it is a 2 part catalyzed hardened coating.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

Unless it violates an FAA reg, I would paint the finished polished lens with Nu-Pol high gloss clear. It’s on Amazon for $20/can. It’s not the cheapest, but it does block UV which is needed to prevent yellowing. It also dries much harder than typical clear sprays, and actually protects the plastic.

I tried using the U-Pol #1 Clear Coat on a few polished headlight lenses and the spray does not level well at all. I suggest getting the SprayMax 2K Clear Coat instead for the same price (~$2$) on Amazon. You will need to use a proper respirator with the SprayMax 2K since it is a 2 part catalyzed hardened coating.

I believe Sraymax has one designed for headlights. I think sometimes the regular 2K crazes the acrylic.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

https://www.amazon.com/SMT-3684068-...k+clear+coat+headlight&qid=1733885549&sr=8-15

 

[Nukeman7]

https://www.amazon.com/SMT-3684068-...k+clear+coat+headlight&qid=1733885549&sr=8-15

You are right, I have corrected the link to the product I posted.

 

[meep]

I tried using the U-Pol #1 Clear Coat on a few polished headlight lenses and the spray does not level well at all. It was either orange peel texture or runny...could not get it right after trying on 6 different headlight assemblies that were removed from the vehicles. I suggest getting the SprayMax 2K Clear Coat instead for the same price (~$24) on Amazon. You will need to use a proper respirator with the SprayMax 2K since it is a 2 part catalyzed hardened coating.

It does lay down differently. Here’s how I do it.

Mask the entire area so the velocity of your arm is consistent and doesn’t slow while sweeping over the item. I spray close - it may be as close as 4” off the headlight, in a fairly quick motion, leaving maybe a 1.5” strip of wet paint. Then come back over, 1.5” strip by 1.5” strip. It’s a good wet coat, medium heavy. Swing the arm out and restart while the can is not over the lamp. About 6-7 quick, narrow, targeted passes does it.

At first it looks like a little orange peel. In 30 seconds it is almost glass-clear.

Repeat coat, same close distance but a quicker sweep. A heavy coat will run here, so being brisk is important.

On cools days it may be more forgiving and the distance can probably be increased, but I’ve had the best results with a short distance and quicker speed.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

BTW Spraymax cans will last for months once activated if you put them in the freezer, hopefully a garage fridge with no food in the freezer.

 

[dfarr67]

Don't bother with any spray can product- take them to a body shop and when they are doing a vehicle have them clear coat it properly for longest results.

 

[Marcozi]

Most clouding of headlights is due to UV light.

 

[wings&wheels]

Most clouding of headlights is due to UV light.

Yes, possibly from both sides of the housing. After I was done with both, I noticed that the left side had noticeably more crazing than the right side, with the left side having the 100w halogen. I'm guessing heat may also be a factor, at least on older housings; pre HID and LED.

The halogen, a 4509, is beginning to cloud, so we'll be replacing it with an led. It's been a while since I bought one. Interestingly, when researching current led offerings which are in the ~$200 range, I came across "aircraft" led's on eBay for ~$32 to $69! Hmmm....