Leather care

[shinerburke]

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In fact, saddle soap is a very poor cleaner. It must first dissolve its own oils, limiting its capacity to dissolve dirt and oils in the leather. Saddle soap is also inherently alkaline but alkalinity is damaging to leather. Another problem arises during application. Most saddle soaps instruct the user to work the lather into the leather. Since loosened dirt is suspended in the lather, it is pushed back into the leather's pores.

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"In fact"? Whose facts? I'm reading a lot of opinions - mostly second and third hand (and merely parroting back nonsense from competitive products' internet sites at that...

) - regarding the "known" evils of saddle soap, neat's foot oil, and mink oil.

I'm coming from over four years' experience with nothing but a damp cloth wipedown followed up with saddle soap to clean and condition the leather in my current car (not a Honda) and the hides still retain their original appearance (sans cracking) and suppleness. All the stitching is still intact despite saddle soap's "known" weakening properties to the stitching, my big butt, and 240 lbs. girth sliding in and out daily. But, I guess actual experience is always suspect, huh? But, I digress. It's obvious the BITOG faithful know that saddle soap is inherently harmful to leather. One can always tell the experts. (Just can't tell 'em much. By the way, isn't it just common sense to gently wipe down with a clean, damp cloth or vacuum leather uphostery to lift loose soil prior to going at it with any leather cleaning/conditioning product?

Auuggghh, horrors! An additional step in the quarterly ritual!)

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Taking the Chargers loss a bit hard aren't ya?

 

[JHZR2]

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"In fact"? Whose facts? I'm reading a lot of opinions - mostly second and third hand (and merely parroting back nonsense from competitive products' internet sites at that...

) - regarding the "known" evils of saddle soap, neat's foot oil, and mink oil.

I'm coming from over four years' experience with nothing but a damp cloth wipedown followed up with saddle soap to clean and condition the leather in my current car (not a Honda) and the hides still retain their original appearance (sans cracking) and suppleness. All the stitching is still intact despite saddle soap's "known" weakening properties to the stitching, my big butt, and 240 lbs. girth sliding in and out daily. But, I guess actual experience is always suspect, huh? But, I digress. It's obvious the BITOG faithful know that saddle soap is inherently harmful to leather. One can always tell the experts. (Just can't tell 'em much. By the way, isn't it just common sense to gently wipe down with a clean, damp cloth or vacuum leather uphostery to lift loose soil prior to going at it with any leather cleaning/conditioning product?

Auuggghh, horrors! An additional step in the quarterly ritual!)

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OK, oh enlightened one... youre right and Im an idiot... thats what you want to hear, right??? there you go.

If Honda STATES that saddle soap is OK for their seats, then I see no reason to not use it. Just like oil, leather tanning chemistry can be TAILORED, and acceptable products may VARY WIDELY.

My fiancee, who has been riding horses for 18 years, and has owned saddles and tack nearly as expensive as your car, in the USVI (BAD conditions for leather or anything else), learned early on that saddle soap is NOT what is good for most leather - including regular shoes, etc. That is, UNLESS it has been sealed properly first.

Remember what I said about tailoring chemstry and using the right products? hot air, huh?!?

IF the leather is treated and selaed correctly, then saddle soap is acceptable for cleaning. Its rejuvenation properties are still poor compared to other products, but it may be used just fine for minor stuff.

IF leather is not properly sealed, then saddle soap will increase the dry-out rate, causing the leather to loose its 'good' properties faster.

Once again, tailor the chemistry to the situation, and know something about it first, before you start boiling over. re-read my first post why dont you... I mentioned tailoring product to the situation there.

JMH

 

[Colt]

Leather care
There has been a change in the manufacturing of leather in recent years, which can require a different approach as far as it’s care is concerned and it applies to MOST leathers made for U.S. made cars. This change is a clear vinyl coating over the leather as a finish. There are exceptions as to which car companies use this, so later I’ll give a test to perform to determine exactly which you may have. My SC has clearcoated leather, but Ford is liable to have changed back and forth for all I know, so I hate to assume.

One thing you DON’T want to put on your leather regardless of the type is saddle soap. Believe it or not , saddle soap is not good for today’s leathers. It is alkaline , and alkalinity is bad for leather , which likes a PH neutral product. Years ago, the way leather was tanned allowed for saddle soap, which was basically an oil in a soap, to soften the tanned leather hides. But it’s a poor cleaner,and can actually push dirt back into leather, and today’s products do a much better job of cleaning and conditioning leather, without the alkalinity of S.S. ( BTW- Ph scale runs 0 to 14, with acids making up 0-6… 7 being water ( neutral ) and alkalines above 7 making up the high end of the scale )

Here’s how to find out if your leather is clearcoated: Take a white rag, and spray a spritz of Simple Green, Castrol Super Clean, 409 or equivalent on it, and go to an inconspicuous place on one of the seats. The hidden part between the backrest and seat cushion is a good spot. Rub the rag and cleaner on a small spot there. If you see the color of the leather coming off on the rag, you DON’T have clearcoated. If you don’t see color/dye on the rag, the it IS coated. If you do have coated leather, you can safely use a PDMS silicone product such as the 303 or Vinylex , which also has cleaners in it, to keep it supple and add UV protection. If it’s uncoated, go with your favorite leather dressing-cleaner and conditioner combo. The latter is best applied with your hand, and allowed to sit a few minutes. After about 5 minutes, the leather will have absorbed all the conditioner it’s going to, so you then want to just wipe/buff the excess off with a white cotton rag/towel.

 

[SteveD2]

I began using this stuff on my leather seats. The seats are four years old, and were rough and not cared for (used car). Lexol didn't make a dent in restoring the leather, but this stuff seems to be helping it snap back very well.
http://www.armorall.com/prod_leathergel.html
The leather looks very good now.

I'd say the Lexol is great if your leather is already in good shape.