Lawn Fertilizing

[keith]

You might have acidic soil that needs lime. It's very common in the eastern states. Buy pelletized lime and use a spreader. You can use pulverized lime, but that tends to create a snowstorm when you spread it and blow away in the wind.

Liming Your Lawn

Home Depot sells it. Any landscaper should have it. It's cheap too.

I don't use any fertilizer and have a nice thick green lawn. Sometimes it needs a little fill reseeding after the winter, but that's normal.

My current problem is how to get rid of moles!!!!!

 

[Pablo]

http://www.molepro.com/

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by Pablo:
MS - **** speaks well of the AgGrand liquid fertilizer. I've never tried it....how many years have you used it? How's the coverage? How many gallons do you need per season for, say 1/5 acre of grass?

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A quart treats 3000 to 5000 sq/ft. If you are using a sprayer 1 gallon per 25 gallons of water per acre.

I say the stuff works as advertised. I haven't used any on my yard this year. I'm trying to do as little maintenace as possible since it's not my place anymore.

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by keith:
You might have acidic soil that needs lime. It's very common in the eastern states. Buy pelletized lime and use a spreader. You can use pulverized lime, but that tends to create a snowstorm when you spread it and blow away in the wind.

Liming Your Lawn

Home Depot sells it. Any landscaper should have it. It's cheap too.

I don't use any fertilizer and have a nice thick green lawn. Sometimes it needs a little fill reseeding after the winter, but that's normal.

My current problem is how to get rid of moles!!!!!

---

Actually it takes 6 months to 1 year for pelletized lime to start working on your yard.

The liquid lime is crushed twice as fine as regular lime and is ready immediately. Just a thought.

 

[msparks]

Aren't moles a symptom of something else. Like grubs or whatever, and if you get them out of it the moles will go elsewhere. That's always been my understanding anyhow.

 

[reyjay1]

quote:

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Originally posted by Razl:


Then I started thinking about how fertilizers are suppose to work - releasing gradual amounts of nutrients for the microbes that break it down and supply the grass with a steady supply of energy. I would think that rain and temperature would greatly affect the usefulness life of fertilizers, regardless of additives manufactures use in the processing.

Therefore, I'm wondering if fertilizing every month with 1/2 the recommended fertilizer would produce better and more consistent results?

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Your thinking is right only it is only that way with organic fertilizers. You are using a synthetic fertilizer that will throw the nutrient balance completely out of whack, and destroy those microbes in the long run. Hence i never use the Scotts, etc. over N based products anymore.
To find out more about fertilizers* www.dirtdoctor.com

 

[MarkC]

quote:

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Originally posted by msparks:

quote:

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Originally posted by MarkC:
More chemicals go into lawns than into farmland in the US. I wonder when people decided that monocrop grass was more attractive than the native plants.

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Not if I can have anything to do about it.

http://www.lube-direct.com/agsite/

You get to use less fertilizer, have stonger, more drought resistant grass, and save the environment. What else can you ask for.

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[TheTanSedan]

As an example on fertilizer usage, I have a man coming tomorrow to core-aerate the lawn (80-year old house, lawn is in poor condition.) The aeration is preceded by a bunch of watering to get this Blackland Prairie soil to soften up a bit (black clay, in the main), and the service will be followed by a heavy application of powdered gypsum, light fertilization and some supplements in granular form. All things I've done before. A bit like a Molasoak/ARX/Redline cleanup. It'll increase the cationery exchange rate (air and water penetrating the soil) by increased root depth. The rest of the summer -- Dallas is officially in a drought again -- I won't have to water as often. Nor watch the fertilizer run off.

The link above to Howard Garrett's site is invaluable here in North Texas, and in general for those wishing to follow an organic program that solves the problems versus treating the symptoms.

I'll be using a stimulator that encourages microbial activity (a MEDINA product) and will foliar feed a few times monthly. I find that this helps keeps the bug and rot problems down, and gets earthworm activity up (homegrown aeration).

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by MarkC:

More chemicals go into lawns than into farmland in the US. I wonder when people decided that monocrop grass was more attractive than the native plants. Not if I can have anything to do about it.

http://www.lube-direct.com/agsite/

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Oh and by the way my monthly special applies to the fertilzer as well. So if you want a hat, or T-shirt give me a call. Hahahaha

 

[JHZR2]

Out of curiousity, how does one spread this onto a lawn? Do you need to buy one of those miracle gro type spreaders that you pour liquid fertilizer into and then spray onto the grass?

The bottles dont look very big, and being liquid, need a spreading medium, the suggested type does not seem to be listed on your site.

Thanks,

JMH

 

[msparks]

They sell a hose end sprayer that goes fits onto the bottles. Otherwise any good sprayer will work depending on what you are applying it. For ornamentals and flowers I just use a watering can. On the yard I use the hose end sprayer, and just judge how many bottles I'll need and apply them evenly to the yard.

If you are doing large areas you will want a pull behind sprayer with a large tank say 25 gallons or more. Then you mix 1 gallon of fertilzer per 25 gallons water and spray that on 1 acre.

PS the bottles are 1 quart in size

[ June 22, 2006, 11:39 AM: Message edited by: msparks ]

 

[TheTanSedan]

Pump sprayer. I use the 2.5-gl size, but, had I the strength any more I'd use the backpack type.

Foliar feeding (earliest morning/latest evening) is the frosting on the cake. Any specimen or ornamental plants really love it. The lawn is a deeper color.

There is no substitute for mechanical work (tilling/composting/mulching/aerating), foliar feding used in conjunction with organic fertilizers (used more lightly) really gets things looking great. Usually takes a couple of years, but year three makes it all worthwhile.

And all of the above assumes someone who walks the yard daily, not during a once-weekly mowing.
Attention is what matters, for, like a car, there is always some little thing to do.

 

[JHZR2]

stupid question... what is the difference in technique and what is used, between foliar feeding and providing organic fertilizers?

Thanks!

JMH

 

[TheTanSedan]

The only difference is liquid form versus granular form. The liquid types can be of higher concentrations as the water added is the carrier. The liquid types tend also to be more complex. A balance of both types is easiest to deal with (cost and time). Many supplements are simply crushed/powdered materials.

The liquids I apply with the sprayer (far more control than a hose-end jobbie), the granular I prefer to use a drop-type fertilizer spreader (though am currently stuck with a whirly-type [much less accurate]), and the truckload amendments I spread (rather, get my hired man to spread these days) with wheelbarrow and appropriate tools.

A soil test, like a used oil analysis, is optimal. Collect dirt from all weak spots on the yard, or use two or more samples if soil types vary, etc. I use a private lab in the Rio Grande Valley; one should contact the state ag-extension service for info on your area.

Reading a sample is some guess work, but I tend to stay with one retailer (garden center) and buy exclusively from him (liquid/granular/truckload) so as to get his advice. A good relationship is key.

Here is the lab, and here are products I'm currently using. Haven't soil tested yet, just doing it on experience this first year (just bought a few months ago, and am using up product from last house).

Read this through for soil test info!
http://www.txplant-soillab.com/

http://www.medina.theshoppe.com/medina_soil_activator_gallon.html

http://www.beorganic.com/index.asp

http://www.greensense.net/624.html

http://www.greensense.net/fishkelp.html

And a favorite I use in the sprayer every time:
SUPERTHRIVE

Like LUBE CONTROL been around forever, and if everyone used it, well, a lot of problems would simply disappear, IMO.

http://www.superthrive.com/index.html

Like DR BRONNER'S SOAP, it seems a little corny, the labels reproduced, but, shoot, both work so well you can't help but like the approach.

http://www.drbronner.com/labels/pepmt.pdf

 

[Razl]

Foliar as in foliage. This is when you provide nutrients that are absorbed by the leaves, not just the roots.

This is why spray lawn fertilizers and Miracle Grow produce overnight results.

I'm so glad I posted this thread becuase organic fertiling is something I'm trying to learn more about.

The one quote from a previous link is eye opening

:

"Only 7-8% of most chemical fertilizers is utilized by the plant while the rest becomes run-off that can contaminate surface and groundwater"

I have 2 bags of $cott$ that I'll finish up and switch to organic methods. MSparks. I'm sending you a PM but can you tell me roughly the cost per quart of that stuff. I'll need roughly 3 qts per dosage.

 

[TheTanSedan]

Still waiting on the guy to do the aerating. I think his excuse of machine "breaking" and leaving me toe-tapping (and who knows how many others waiting) is really that he wanted to go fishing and get drunk over the holiday weekend

I can't blame him too much since he charges a lot less than everyone else (but unlike other customers, I'll be home to be sure details are taken care of when he finally does arrive).

Yesterday I spread the gypsum/Scotts/Ironite on the front and side yard (1/2-hour) and spent the next two hours into dark watering it all in by hand. Yard/lawn is hard as rock -- grass is green due to my heavy watering this season (thus wasteful, ultimately) -- so I took the time to go over and over the lawn in a circular pattern to be sure water/goodies didn't run off but soaked in. This clay soil is like a sponge: Have to get it wet before it'll start absorbing.

Luckily the front yard is 98% weedfree and St Augustine covered. The old lady who lived here (daughter of original owner; built 1925) kept it half-decent considering her age, ability and interest.

The backyard, however, is another story. No St A, but about 15% Bermuda and all weeds: dichondra, crabgrass, Dallis grass, nut sedge, spurge, henbit (and on and on).

Plus a slope that allows water to almost cut courses back to the alley. Hard, and due to topsoil loss, slick. With my weakened constitution (and orange level smog alert and 97F temps), I've had to plan my energy carefully in accordance with what I would do tonight, and what remains through Monday (my cutoff; I can only "work" about 3-4 hours).

Got the stuff spread with the whirly-bird. Started hand-watering the barren areas. Finished them and sat for yet another break. Suddenly got a 1/4-inch or so rain shower

that soaked, but didn't give any runoff !!

Wow, that was like finding an NOS part for the old car at $15 at an unlikely parts store the aftermarket wants $225 for!!

Watered the rest in, and now don't have to do that tomorrow. Yard is soft underheel everywhere!

Now to foliar feed with some fish gunk/kelp blend and the usual SuperThrive.

I'll use the MEDINA Soil Microbe Activator right in back of the core aeration. But the yard is good to go.

We had, officially, 1/3-inch of rain in June, and normally receive 3.25" (following an equally dry May).

Hope the rest of you all have that bit of lagniappe as you sweat the details this year!!

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by JHZR2:
stupid question... what is the difference in technique and what is used, between foliar feeding and providing organic fertilizers?

Thanks!

JMH

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Foliar feed is a technique not a type of fertiler. You can foliar fee with any "liquid" fertilizer be chemical or organic.

This is opposed to granular feeding which is hard grains of fertilzers that are dropped on the ground and then you have to wait for them to dissolve when it rains (that is if they don't wash away first)

 

[JHZR2]

so, bringing this thread back, I have sme good news...

I bought a case of aggrand fertilizer... We used it, even though it is the middle of the summer... why not?!?

So the story:

We had a number of bare spots from whee the previous owner of our home had stuff on the grass, and we had seeded it, not hoping for much.

Not much was happening...

We watered the whole lawn once with aggrand per the instructions. This was a few weeks ago. We've watered everything since with pure water. Then, just late last week I got out the pressurized sprayer, and added some aggrand per the instrutions. I wanted to spray the flowers and potted plants to do a foliar feeding. I also sprayed the seeds, as they still werent showing any signs of germination.

Well, just yesterday we now have seed germination in all areas! This is after the seeds sittingout literally for weeks!

The lawn looks nice and green too! It needs to thicken up somewhat, as the PO didnt take the greatest care of it, but so what? it is growing nicer, and we will have grass in the bare spots!

Im very happy with the product!

JMH

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Since i bought my house I started with a little synthetic(new construction sight didn't have much biological matter to worry about)to get the Bermuda to take hold and have since gone organic. (mulching in grass and feeding the lawn common cornmeal and feedstore extras)
This is how it looked right before I moved in.

This is recently

Corn meal works for me. and a fast establishment it has been.

I do realize that the Bermuda was dormant in January but I am happy with my results. Now comes July and August.

[ July 12, 2006, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: Bryanccfshr ]

 

[9296D21B14]

Here in SE LA with drought conditions I am calling it the summer I didn't mow. Three acres with trim work. Usually two or three times a month. This year, three times so far since March. Nice. Stunted and a bit brown, but nice. Lack of rain ruined the tomatoes, though. Primary ground cover here is wind seeded volunteer bahia from nearby dairy pastures. Tough as nails to cut. I'm waiting for a slow release pelletized form of RoundUp in case it ever rains again. Probably from the next tropical system. For those of you who are upstream of the Mississippi River water shed, I say no lawn fertilizer at all. Ever hear of the Gulf of Mexico dead zone? Down here we are in it. I'm no supporter of Greenpeace by any means. Farm based runoff for food production? Maybe. For cool green lawn pictures? Hmmm... Funny to me here how everyone knows right where to take their used oil for disposal but another petro based product, chemical fertilizer, it's let 'er rip!