L&G Batteries

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This is a product that I struggle with.
Over the years, for three different tractors, I have bought a number of these at various price points. I have bought the JD battery from the dealer and had it only last one year. I have purchased the least expensive battery from a number of vendors and had them go from 3-5 years. It seems like you either get a good one or bad one regardless of price. I tend to go 3-4 years out of them on average before they woof.
So yesterday, I go out to start my lawn tractor to move it to get something out of the shed. Deader than a doornail. The battery was a Rural King (Exide) that I bought for $16. four years ago. It had started the Exide fuzz on the terminals. I ended up jumping the tractor with a jumpbox.
After running it for a half hour, I parked it back in the shed. Went out today and the battery cranked the engine for two seconds before it gave up the ghost. I saw where NAPA had batteries for $7. off, so I thought I would try to support local business. Go in the store and the $19. battery had 50 CCA less than the RK battery. One with the CCA of the RK battery would have been $54.(and I would have had to ordered it.) His solution for a battery on hand would have been $60.
So I jumped in the truck and went to Rural King and bought another Exide on sale for $16.
I reaffirmed my conclusion that the best L&G battery is the cheapest one. Am I looking at this wrong?
 
It takes a battery, that required a jumpstart, no less than 6.5 hours to reach full charge, and that is with a high amperage charging source, seeking high voltages, with an absorption(maximum) voltage in the mid to upper 14 volt range.

You are blaming the battery, when its state of charge and lack there of, is the cause for their quick demise. Lead acid batteries want to be fully charged, and kept fully charged, and they do self discharge even when hooked up to nothing.

They self discharge faster in higher temperatures, and some brands will self discharge faster than others, depending on the plate paste forumlation.

Get a charger. maintainer and your battery short life issues will be gone
 
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Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
Get a charger. maintainer and your battery short life issues will be gone

+1. This has been my experience. Many choices out there with a good algorithm, temp compensation, etc.
 
I have had the best life out of Deka (aka East Penn Manufacturing) garden tractor batteries. I had one that lasted 8 or 9 years!
In my area , the Napa batteries are made by East Penn. The Auto Value Stores in my area also sell Deka.

Honestly, I would have probably just gone with the Napa even with the lower CCA, it would still likely have lasted longer than the RK battery, provided the cranking amps were sufficient to start the engine.

I have had the worst luck with Exide batteries.

As the others said though, to get the best life out of any battery, it needs to be kept charged.
Walmart has Battery Tender Jr's for about $30, I have one and I alternate it every week between my summer cruiser, and my 2 garden tractors.
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
It takes a battery, that required a jumpstart, no less than 6.5 hours to reach full charge, and that is with a high amperage charging source, seeking high voltages, with an absorption(maximum) voltage in the mid to upper 14 volt range.

You are blaming the battery, when its state of charge and lack there of, is the cause for their quick demise. Lead acid batteries want to be fully charged, and kept fully charged, and they do self discharge even when hooked up to nothing.

They self discharge faster in higher temperatures, and some brands will self discharge faster than others, depending on the plate paste forumlation.

Get a charger. maintainer and your battery short life issues will be gone


I agree with that regarding a normal car battery. I have a NOCO, a CTEK, and two other chargers.
However, even in the years that I even used to take the batteries out of the tractor for winter and put them on a maintainer, the best that I ever got was five years out of a L&G battery. I got away from doing that because doing so did not seem to significantly enhance the finite life span of these batteries. For that kind of return, it isn't worth the hassle. Someday I will be able to store my tractor near electric.
In this case, I would have replaced the battery anyway, because it was leaking significantly. Yesterday, when I turned the lights on the tractor, they were normal brightness, so it seems the battery could not have been that discharged. I would have thought that running it a half hour would have charged it enough to allow me to start it again today without a jump.
The best luck that I ever had with smaller batteries was with my first tractor that used a motorcycle battery. Never did anything with that and it lasted as long as the tractor did.
 
Originally Posted By: cronk
I have had the best life out of Deka (aka East Penn Manufacturing) garden tractor batteries. I had one that lasted 8 or 9 years!
In my area , the Napa batteries are made by East Penn. The Auto Value Stores in my area also sell Deka.

Honestly, I would have probably just gone with the Napa even with the lower CCA, it would still likely have lasted longer than the RK battery, provided the cranking amps were sufficient to start the engine.

I have had the worst luck with Exide batteries.

As the others said though, to get the best life out of any battery, it needs to be kept charged.
Walmart has Battery Tender Jr's for about $30, I have one and I alternate it every week between my summer cruiser, and my 2 garden tractors.


That is why I went to NAPA to get an East Penn.
I might have been fine with the 180 CCA one, although I was not sure if it would have been adequate. Clerk was of no help, although I could have just called my JD dealer and asked. However, I couldn't see spending $60. for the sure bet.
The funny thing is I have maintainers and use them on my cars. I can see demonstrated benefit from doing that.
The best that I have ever done is 5 years putting a maintainer on an L&G battery, and can get 3-4 if I don't. I have never really seen any difference between the cheap ones and the expensive ones, except for a lighter wallet. Guess that's why I landed up at Rural King. I should be good for 4 more years, costing me $4./year.
 
The Deka I got 8 or 9 years from wasn't on a tender (that was before I owned one). I always made sure to start up the tractor and let it run 30 or 40 minutes once or twice a month, or at least throw a normal charger on for a bit to keep it topped off.

I have had a couple Exides and it seemed like I couldn't get more than 2-3 years out of one no matter how well I cared for it.
 
On my big ol' heavy iron Bolens 1250, I welded a battery tray that takes a normal car battery, group 24 or something or other.... it can handle the extra weight with ease. When a car battery gets weak, I put it in the ol' girl and it's good for another couple years. I keep a float charger on it, even if I have to run a 100' extension cord, which is dirt cheap at harbor freight.

On my smaller lawnmower, I use a Harley Davidson (from Deka) battery. I change the battery in the Softail every year since it sits in the middle of a hot oil tank..... of course, you can buy 6-7 L&G $16 batteries for what one of those costs!
 
People I talk to who leave their tractor parked all winter buy new batteries every year and jump start them a lot to squeak through moving it as needed, so I encourage them to use maintainers.

5 years is pretty good for a L&G battery.

They will discharge on their own let alone being hooked up to who knows how much parasitic draw on the equipment. The capacity isn't huge so they can drain relatively quick.
 
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