Kreen Update

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another update.


so I looked at my pcv valve. Very clean. Now I am going to have this guy check my valve seals. The car does seem to burn less oil now but it is still noticeable. it was still okay today at about 650 miles but I went ahead and put the half quart of 10w30 I had around in it. because it seemed to have burned 1/4 of a quart or so. Going to try to schedule something this week and will give another update. I would check my valve seals myself but I have no idea on how to.

From what I know, I do have to get under the car for that but I have to do a lot of piece removal with the proper tools on the right settings. It is a bit over my skill level. Tried looking for a guide but no luck on that either. checking/replacing valve seals I am guessing is not something a beginner should do right?

kind of unrelated. Is there a later Toyota engine that is compatible with the 2001 corolla that doesn't suffer from oil burn?(or at least is not notorious for it). I may have a few thousand dollars extra that I would not mind putting into a engine that would alleviate this bit of a headache.
 
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At this point if you are seeing some improvement, why not continue a little longer with the Kreen treatment? Then switch over to your favorite oil and filter and see what happens. As long as time and money aren't a problem, why not keep an eye on the oil level and see if time works for you? You can always go the mechanic route if things don't work to your satisfaction. JMO
 
Quote:
At this point if you are seeing some improvement, why not continue a little longer with the Kreen treatment?

+1. Run it out to 1K do an OC with some cheap dino and put another dose in, repeat a few times after running each does 1K.
Its good stuff but it still needs some time to work.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
At this point if you are seeing some improvement, why not continue a little longer with the Kreen treatment? Then switch over to your favorite oil and filter and see what happens. As long as time and money aren't a problem, why not keep an eye on the oil level and see if time works for you? You can always go the mechanic route if things don't work to your satisfaction. JMO





Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
At this point if you are seeing some improvement, why not continue a little longer with the Kreen treatment?

+1. Run it out to 1K do an OC with some cheap dino and put another dose in, repeat a few times after running each does 1K.
Its good stuff but it still needs some time to work.


Alrighty will do! postponing the mechanic call as of now. What filters do you guys recommend for my year and make?(check sig). I have a new fram lying around but I know thats not ideal
 
What are you guys thoughts on 20w50 in my car? I am still under the OC recommended in the latter post but I can't help but think about the next thing to try. If the kreen treatment does not work

Was talking to my GF's mechanic who recommended that I use 20w50. I live in New England and of course the first thing that pops in my head is the scenario of waking up to a car with frozen oil in the winter. It gets below zero sometimes like at night here. Should I be making a new thread or can i gather some thoughts here?
 
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Run the Fram if you have it, its overpriced but millions of cars seem to keep going with them. For the miles you are using it for its no problem at all.

As far as 20w50 goes its way to thick for NE winter. See if the product helps and then make an oil choice decision.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Run the Fram if you have it, its overpriced but millions of cars seem to keep going with them. For the miles you are using it for its no problem at all.

As far as 20w50 goes its way to thick for NE winter. See if the product helps and then make an oil choice decision.


+1 Although I stopped using Fram filters years ago I never had a bad one, or a problem from them. I'd also re-think the 20W50 oil.
 
Quote:
I read that to help oil consumption, I should get an extra long filter and go 10w30.
I have no idea why anyone would recommend a bigger oil filter related to oil consumption. Use the filter recommended for your engine.

Any consumption difference between the recommended oil and 10W-30 would be minor if anything. You really need to find the cause of the oil consumption and either fix it or ignore it and keep adding oil. Using a non-recommended oil might result in inadequate lubrication of some parts that aren't related to the oil consumption. Going up one viscosity grade in hot weather usually isn't a problem, but otherwise, stick with the book's recommendation.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
I have no idea why anyone would recommend a bigger oil filter related to oil consumption.


Maybe to increase the total oil capacity slightly?
 
Originally Posted By: gibsonzero
another update.


so I looked at my pcv valve. Very clean. Now I am going to have this guy check my valve seals. The car does seem to burn less oil now but it is still noticeable. it was still okay today at about 650 miles but I went ahead and put the half quart of 10w30 I had around in it. because it seemed to have burned 1/4 of a quart or so. Going to try to schedule something this week and will give another update. I would check my valve seals myself but I have no idea on how to.

From what I know, I do have to get under the car for that but I have to do a lot of piece removal with the proper tools on the right settings. It is a bit over my skill level. Tried looking for a guide but no luck on that either. checking/replacing valve seals I am guessing is not something a beginner should do right?

kind of unrelated. Is there a later Toyota engine that is compatible with the 2001 corolla that doesn't suffer from oil burn?(or at least is not notorious for it). I may have a few thousand dollars extra that I would not mind putting into a engine that would alleviate this bit of a headache.


Sounds like you have the same problem as many of us 00-02 MR2 Spyder owners with your 1zz-fe engine. First, take out your O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold, shine a flashlight down into the holes. If you see an in-tact pre-catalytic converter matrix you should be OK, if they're broken or clogged you're SOL. The 00-02 1zz-fe engine also has a problem with oval bore/rings. With any Corolla/Matrix/MR2/Celica engine after 03 you should be fine. Hope this helps.
 
Tried kreen in the TDI, and was amazed at how much more power I got soon after. It must have cleaned the turbo and what not. This is the 3rd vehicle I've used kreen with excellent results.
 
Update:
Last OCI I gave the engine a 1/2 qt 1k Kreen dose, changed the oil. Tonight I changed the post Kreen oil. 6,455 brutal city miles, many days close to 100F in the past month. M1 HM 5w30. Purolator classic. Top off 1qt.

Normally at this length the oil is in pretty bad shape aesthetically due to driving conditions. Not this time. Looked like it does at 3k. The oil was in great shape. Short of a UOA the eyeball test says I could have gone 7k.

Thanks again Kreen!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8


Want Results? Use Kreen!


Nice!

When you don't have time to fool around, reach for the Kreen.

You want it clean, use Kreen.

There's more, no point in attacking the competition though.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: gibsonzero
Is there a later Toyota engine that is compatible with the 2001 corolla that doesn't suffer from oil burn?(or at least is not notorious for it). I may have a few thousand dollars extra that I would not mind putting into a engine that would alleviate this bit of a headache.

A less expensive solution rather than a "new" engine is to repair the one you have. Bennie of Toyota Nation has a DIY repair for the oil consumption problem (or you could pay someone to do the repair). Toyota replacement pistons now come with more oil holes.
 
I (actually my wife)have a '06 Toyota Prius with 165k on the clock. Most of the OCI's up until 100k were done at the dealer because of convenience and they were free...or so I thought. Once I began changing the oil(M1)at 100k I noticed a dark honey colored varnish to the engine where I could see through the fill hole. Recently I changed out the oil pan and gasket/screen and found the the inside of the pan and lower unit were coated with this varnish as well. Over the last 40k I expected the M1 would clean up the varnish but it hasn't so I switched to PU. Should I try a few more OCI's with the PU or try out the Kreen?
 
I have an update, and some questions.

Currently on second OCI after a 1500 mile 1/2 qt Kreen run. So thats 9k and 2 drains ago.

The good:
Engine runs excellent, very quiet, oil is much cleaner through the entire 7k OCI

The bad:
The engine now has a voracious appetite for oil. Especially on the highway. Started shortly after the drain of Kreen. Went from 1qt every 5k to 1qt every 2k. Upping from 5w30 to 10w40 hasn't slowed it one bit.

The variables:
Known valve seal issues for 90k miles. Let it go because I was burning only 1qt every 5k prior to Kreen. Had been running M1 HM 5w30 for the entire 90k, so the engine was relatively clean. still running it now, topping off with M1 10w40 to try and slow it. No help. I suppose I was asking for it adding Kreen with bad seals. But with 90k of stable oil consumption I assumed nothing much would happen. Clearly something has, I waited 2 oil changes and 9k to say something.

So...after 90k running M1 HM the leaking valve seals were being held back by crud? or were these seals in their weakened state vulnerable to the harsh solvents of Kreen?
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
The bad:
The engine now has a voracious appetite for oil. Especially on the highway. Started shortly after the drain of Kreen. Went from 1qt every 5k to 1qt every 2k.


Voracious? Gimme a break. Half the people here would be tickled pink if their cars could go 2,000 miles on a quart of oil. Just fuggedaboudit.
 
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