Known best filter for subie FA engines?

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Oct 16, 2023
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What oil filter would be the best overall product to run on my 21 WRX. Going to run amsoil oil and want to use a top rated filter. I know a lot of Subaru owners use the OEM filter. Is there any logical reason for this or benefit?
 
What oil filter would be the best overall product to run on my 21 WRX. Going to run amsoil oil and want to use a top rated filter. I know a lot of Subaru owners use the OEM filter. Is there any logical reason for this or benefit?
Because of the high bypass valve setting is typically why they use the OEM filter.
 
What oil filter would be the best overall product to run on my 21 WRX. Going to run amsoil oil and want to use a top rated filter. I know a lot of Subaru owners use the OEM filter. Is there any logical reason for this or benefit?
OEM Subaru filters have a bypass pressure rating of 23 psi. The reason it is so high is because the oil pumps in these engines have a very high flow rate, especially for such a small filter. Most aftermarket filter manufacturers do not bother designing Subaru-specific filters, and their recommended filters have a bypass rating of only 10-15 psi. These filters will bypass unfiltered oil on a regular basis. So, a lot of Subaru owners just stick with the OEM filters. They're well made filters, but not the most efficient ones out there.

For the WRX, the best non-OEM oil filter is probably the PurolatorOne PL14615. It's more efficient than the OEM filter (99% at 26 micron, vs maybe ~40 micron), and has the proper bypass rating. Purolator recommends the PL14459 for the WRX and BRZ for some reason, but it's got a lower bypass rating and is less efficient than the PL14615, which is what they recommend for most Subaru models now.

There are some other aftermarket filter brands that have filters with the proper bypass rating, but AFAIK none of them are particularly efficient, nor are they clearly better than OEM in any other way.

I prefer the PurolatorOne for my WRX. My second choice would be OEM. I wouldn't recommend anything else.
 
I know a lot of Subaru owners use the OEM filter. Is there any logical reason for this or benefit?
It's cheap, effective and readily available.
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OEM Subaru filters have a bypass pressure rating of 23 psi. The reason it is so high is because the oil pumps in these engines have a very high flow rate, especially for such a small filter. Most aftermarket filter manufacturers do not bother designing Subaru-specific filters, and their recommended filters have a bypass rating of only 10-15 psi. These filters will bypass unfiltered oil on a regular basis. So, a lot of Subaru owners just stick with the OEM filters. They're well made filters, but not the most efficient ones out there.

For the WRX, the best non-OEM oil filter is probably the PurolatorOne PL14615. It's more efficient than the OEM filter (99% at 26 micron, vs maybe ~40 micron), and has the proper bypass rating. Purolator recommends the PL14459 for the WRX and BRZ for some reason, but it's got a lower bypass rating and is less efficient than the PL14615, which is what they recommend for most Subaru models now.

There are some other aftermarket filter brands that have filters with the proper bypass rating, but AFAIK none of them are particularly efficient, nor are they clearly better than OEM in any other way.

I prefer the PurolatorOne for my WRX. My second choice would be OEM. I wouldn't recommend anything else.
Do you still recommend the PL14615? I'm looking at using for my 22 wrx
 
Barring oil filter failure the oil filter is not what will make you sell the vehicle , use oem.
 
Do you still recommend the PL14615? I'm looking at using for my 22 wrx
It's one of the best options, but the OEM Tokyo Roki is good as well.

One thing I like better about the OEM Tokyo Roki filters is that they're made with thicker steel and should be more robust. Cold oil pressure can get very high on these engines (>150 psi), and if you do have a filter failure, you're less likely to have warranty headaches with an OEM filter, so an OEM filter might be the safest bet. I haven't heard of any Purolator or Tokyo Roki filter failures causing oil leaks, but there have been some with the blue Subaru filters made by FRAM.

If my Subaru was still on warranty, I'd probably just stick with the OEM Tokyo Roki. Less risk of warranty issues, and it's a good way to document your oil changes with the dealership.

If you do use a Tokyo Roki filter, try to get one that's made in Japan. The filters made in Indonesia are not as good.
 
Barring oil filter failure the oil filter is not what will make you sell the vehicle , use oem.

It's one of the best options, but the OEM Tokyo Roki is good as well.

One thing I like better about the OEM Tokyo Roki filters is that they're made with thicker steel and should be more robust. Cold oil pressure can get very high on these engines (>150 psi), and if you do have a filter failure, you're less likely to have warranty headaches with an OEM filter, so an OEM filter might be the safest bet. I haven't heard of any Purolator or Tokyo Roki filter failures causing oil leaks, but there have been some with the blue Subaru filters made by FRAM.

If my Subaru was still on warranty, I'd probably just stick with the OEM Tokyo Roki. Less risk of warranty issues, and it's a good way to document your oil changes with the dealership.

If you do use a Tokyo Roki filter, try to get one that's made in Japan. The filters made in Indonesia are not as good.
This is what I've used since I got my car last year.

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I’m on my 9th Subaru. I can tell you from over 800k total miles between 7 EJs, an FA24DIT and an FB25, that the whole internet lore about bypass pressure and filtration is completely overblown. I’ve used Wix. I’ve used Fram. I’ve used Purolator. I’ve used Napa. Not once have I had an engine issue related to filtration, and I’ve never lost an engine either.

All of my past EJs were sold in good running condition, and I still have 1 EJ, 1 FA24, and an FB25. They ALL get the FE7317. I prefer the multilayer synthetic filtration media along with robust wire backed construction. I had used the XG7317 until First Brands cheaped out on it.

Simply let it warm up and get the oil thin before you wail on it, and bypass pressure is irrelevant for all reasonable purposes. Once we clear that hurdle, there is a clear advantage (as @ZeeOSix has multiple threads on) that higher efficiency filters keep oil cleaner, and cleaner oil leads to lower wear and longer engine life. The OEM filter is not exactly a paragon of efficiency.
 
that the whole internet lore about bypass pressure and filtration is completely overblown
I'm gonna put this to rest in a few weeks once I get around to getting some fresh Subaru filters from the dealership. I get the feeling the high bypass claim on some oil filters are overblown, cleaver marketing, or in the high opening range.

For example: The LF16011 bypass value opening face started opening at 2 pounds of force with an opening of 7/16" of an inch which estimated 13.3 PSI of pressure whereas applying 4 pounds of pressure has shown the bypass to be fully opened but not bottomed out which estimates to 26.6 PSI which is what is spec'd to Fleetguards product page.

You can read the message chain of my findings here using a push force gauge: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/fleetguard-lf16011-cut-open-new.380054/#post-6868364
 
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The filter bypass valve setting is also determined by the flow vs dP performance of the filter media, not just what engine it goes on to. A filter that has more flow restriction should have a higher set bypass valve to keep the filter from bypassing too early and too often.
 
I’m on my 9th Subaru. I can tell you from over 800k total miles between 7 EJs, an FA24DIT and an FB25, that the whole internet lore about bypass pressure and filtration is completely overblown. I’ve used Wix. I’ve used Fram. I’ve used Purolator. I’ve used Napa. Not once have I had an engine issue related to filtration, and I’ve never lost an engine either.

All of my past EJs were sold in good running condition, and I still have 1 EJ, 1 FA24, and an FB25. They ALL get the FE7317. I prefer the multilayer synthetic filtration media along with robust wire backed construction. I had used the XG7317 until First Brands cheaped out on it.

Simply let it warm up and get the oil thin before you wail on it, and bypass pressure is irrelevant for all reasonable purposes. Once we clear that hurdle, there is a clear advantage (as @ZeeOSix has multiple threads on) that higher efficiency filters keep oil cleaner, and cleaner oil leads to lower wear and longer engine life. The OEM filter is not exactly a paragon of efficiency.
I'm assuming there shouldn't be any warranty issue if I need any engine work done if I show proof I've been using this for my changes?

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I'm assuming there shouldn't be any warranty issue if I need any engine work done if I show proof I've been using this for my changes?
The dealer could give you grief and not cover warranty if it's proven that the filter caused the problem. The Magnuson-Moss warranty act doesn't cover you in a case like that. Then you would have to make a claim with the filter maker under their warranty. The changes of the Endurance causing any issue is near zero. Every oil filter has a super remote chance of causing engine damage. Luck of the draw.
 
The dealer could give you grief and not cover warranty if it's proven that the filter caused the problem. The Magnuson-Moss warranty act doesn't cover you in a case like that. Then you would have to make a claim with the filter maker under their warranty. The changes of the Endurance causing any issue is near zero. Every oil filter has a super remote chance of causing engine damage. Luck of the draw.
Yea I figured the filter wouldn't be the issue but you never know with dealers.
 
Yea I figured the filter wouldn't be the issue but you never know with dealers.
An aftermarket filter could be an issue with the dealership if they can prove the aftermarket filter was the root cause of the damage. But yes, some sleazy dealerships might try to blame any aftermarket part, even if it really wasn't the cause of the damage.
 
An aftermarket filter could be an issue with the dealership if they can prove the aftermarket filter was the root cause of the damage. But yes, some sleazy dealerships might try to blame any aftermarket part, even if it really wasn't the cause of the damage.
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Have to look closer at the context of that statement. I think what it means is that using an aftermarket part will not void the entire warranty on the vehicle. In other words, using a Fram filter wouldn't void the warranty on the differential, or the warranty on the wiper motor, etc. That's the whole crux of the Magnuson-Moss warranty act. But, if an aftermarket part was proven to be the cause of the failure and damage, the dealership certainly could deny the factory warranty.
 
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