Kinematic Viscosity when comparing oils

[Mossyoakglock]

At what point does the Kinematic viscosity differences start to make a difference when comparing two oils?

For example, I need a lower-SAPs oil for my LM2 Duramax and based on what I can get locally I've narrowed it down to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 (which seems to be the standard go-to in the LM2/LZ0 if going non-DexosD) or the Castrol Euro 5w-30 K. I would like to run the Castrol 0W-30 LL but I can't find it anywhere. According to Mobil the ESP ash is <.80% (same with Castrol 0W-30 LL) but the Castrol 5w-30 K says it's .71% according to the PDS.

At 100C, they are all in the 12 mm²/s range but at 40C, Mobil 1 ESP is 64 mm²/s and Castrol K is 69 mm²/s (Castrol 0W-30 is 61 mm²/s).

1. Does that mean that the Mobil 1 is on the thicker side of a 0W-30 and the Castrol K on the thinner side of a 5W-30?
2. Is there really any difference and does roughly 5 mm²/s really matter and you're just splitting hairs at that point?

OCI is 5,000 is that matters

 

[fantastic]

Personally, I'd use the ESP. Both I believe meet similar specs. You're doing your Duramax a good service by going with either of these two grades.

 

[kschachn]

1. Does that mean that the Mobil 1 is on the thicker side of a 0W-30 and the Castrol K on the thinner side of a 5W-30?
2. Is there really any difference and does roughly 5 mm²/s really matter and you're just splitting hairs at that point?

The HT/HS is a better indicator.

 

[userfriendly]

API FA-4 10W-30 and 5W-30s are another option a half step above 20 grade.
Maximum HTHS is 3.1

 

[Mossyoakglock]

The HT/HS is a better indicator.

All three are 3.5. That's direct from Castrol and Mobil since those numbers are not on their PDS.

If it also matters, it appears NOACK is around 8.5 for both too.

 

[Mossyoakglock]

Personally, I'd use the ESP. Both I believe meet similar specs. You're doing your Duramax a good service by going with either of these two grades.

Any particular reason why? Better base stocks, add packs, etc?

I couldn't find much on the K version but from what I've read on here some of the Castrol Euro oils sold in the US are supposedly just "average".

 

[johnmyster]

Delo ADF 600 10w-30: SA 0.4%, HTHS 3.6, KV100 11.9.

Nashville TN, 5k intervals would be a cakewalk.

 

[kschachn]

All three are 3.5. That's direct from Castrol and Mobil since those numbers are not on their PDS.

If it also matters, it appears NOACK is around 8.5 for both too.

Yes that would be a minimum based on the approvals, but not necessarily a specific value for any lot or batch.

 

[fantastic]

Any particular reason why? Better base stocks, add packs, etc?

I couldn't find much on the K version but from what I've read on here some of the Castrol Euro oils sold in the US are supposedly just "average".

There seems to be more of an ester blend than Castrol would have. There's nothing "average" about putting these oils mentioned in you 3.0L.

 

[fantastic]

Delo ADF 600 10w-30: SA 0.4%, HTHS 3.6, KV100 11.9.

Nashville TN, 5k intervals would be a cakewalk.

Like I mentioned in the other thread. That Delo 600 ADF isn't ideal to use unless you're needing it in the latest expensive commercial emissions systems. It has way too much Potassium that could potentially hide a coolant leak. OP could use Mobil Delvac 1300 instead if wanting an HDEO lower on SA.

 

[johnmyster]

Like I mentioned in the other thread. That Delo 600 ADF isn't ideal to use unless you're needing it in the latest expensive commercial emissions systems. It has way too much Potassium that could potentially hide a coolant leak. OP could use Mobil Delvac 1300 instead if wanting an HDEO lower on SA.

I guess. I feel like in the hundred+ years of internal combustion there have been ways (other than a science lab uoa) to find a head gasket or oil cooler leak on an engine that isn't prone to either.

Even for the home gamer, a DPF replacement or even removal for bakeout can be spendy. Kicking that can further down the road doesn't seem like an advantage only for commercial users.

 

[fantastic]

I guess. I feel like in the hundred+ years of internal combustion there have been ways (other than a science lab uoa) to find a head gasket or oil cooler leak on an engine that isn't prone to either.

Even for the home gamer, a DPF replacement or even removal for bakeout can be spendy. Kicking that can further down the road doesn't seem like an advantage only for commercial users.

I'm happy it's an option on the market for the folks that use it. I just want folks to be aware at the minimum. They went all out on this stuff as it's some of the oddest additive pack we've seen.