Just had to remove FRAM XG4967!

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Arco,
You are probably a bright and well educated fellow.
However, you do lead this board in your experience of obscure mechanical maladies.
Most of us will go through an entire lifetime of vehicle ownership without seeing the problems that you experience with any one car you own.
I honestly feel for you, since I have never had any observed problems with any car using any oil/filter combo.
I've never heard rod knock on any car I've ever owned, much less a new Subaru.
Heck, I had better experience with my MGB than you've had with modern, low-performance vehicles from highly regarded manufacturers.
My advice would be to avoid anything even midly complicated or exotic.
 
Arco, Not to get into bashing you but have you thought that your pursuit of unusal oil for your applications to solve perceived sounds and problems may be harming and not helping to resolve the situation. Why not try the weight recommended by Toyota and a good convential oil (Toyota's spec oil appears to made by EOM) and use a good quality OEM Denso filter. There are thousands of Yaris's on the road running that combo and they are not grenading. Just my thought as a fellow Toyota owner - 05 Camry with 2AZ-FE - not demonstating any sounds or problem. Happy Motoring
 
I don't post here much, but...

I use the FRAM XG replacement on my Yaris for two OCI. I cannot state that the XG is better/worse than the Toyota replacement filter but the XG has certainly not made the Yaris make funny noises on startup or lead to a any noticeable power loss.

I tighten the XG with one of those oil filter adapters that fit onto the base. I probably bought it from Walmart.

I had to post this because my experience has been completely different than the OP's.

EDIT: When you folks use the abbreviation, "XG"... is that the Xtended Guard or Extra Guard? I use the Xtended Guard. I have no experience with the Extra Guard. Sorry for the confusion.
 
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.....However, you do lead this board in your experience of obscure mechanical maladies....
Yes I have noticed this, to put it in alliterative terms, the leader in multiple mechanical maladies. OTOH, the threads, like this, I find entertaining to read.

fwiw, the XG is the one oil filter from the makers of the orange can that I would now purchase, just not at the current $9.50 Wally price.

Quote:
"XG"... is that the Xtended Guard or Extra Guard?
XG refers to the Xtended/Extended Guard. OTOH, the Extra Guard is affectionately called things like the OCOD by some, I myself, try to be less inflammatory and now just call it the orange can.
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I've been changing oil since the 1970's and have used just about every filter there is. Granted some are better than others, but I can honestly say I've never experienced driveability issues caused by an oil filter.
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General statement, not targeted at anyone: When I was a teenager credentials and degrees impressed me. I quickly learned that they don't mean much when it comes to hands on and common sense. I had a very good friend who went to school to become an engineer. Chewing gum while walking presented problems, as well as dealing with hands on things, or reality. It still holds true for many people. I passed this along to my son, so he'd learn younger than I did.

My buddy would stare under the hood of a car at an engine in a daze, he couldn't check his own oil. Yet he could answer any technical question as if he were reading it from a textbook.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
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anyway you going to cut this bad boy open so we can see!!!!
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Id rather mail it to somebody who wants to use it. It was only in service for a couple days with fresh M1 synthetic. I wouldnt expect to see anything wrong with it.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
...

You changed ONE variable (and one that anyone with common sense would consider irrelevant) in a sea of variables, many of which are out of your control, such as ambient conditions, and may have made a false conclusion based on said variable. Changing one variable doesn't automatically equate to causation.
True, Drew with regards to causation, but It gave me direction on trying to rectify the situation. Replacing the filter with the Bosch 3311 fixed the perceived problem(s) and I am satisfied. The car didnt run a little weak or a little noisy - the 1NZ was blatant in its dissatisfaction. IIR, Gary had speculated that the oil pump might have a relatively low-rated internal bypass, thus making the engine more susceptible to filter choice. This hypersensitivity to filter choice is highly uncommon for ME too; my old contour 2.0 with VVT didnt seem to be problematic. I'm just trying to be proactive in correcting any malady so that it cannot escalate into a bigger problem that I would be powerless to address.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've been changing oil since the 1970's and have used just about every filter there is. Granted some are better than others, but I can honestly say I've never experienced driveability issues caused by an oil filter.
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General statement, not targeted at anyone: When I was a teenager credentials and degrees impressed me. I quickly learned that they don't mean much when it comes to hands on and common sense. I had a very good friend who went to school to become an engineer. Chewing gum while walking presented problems, as well as dealing with hands on things, or reality. It still holds true for many people. I passed this along to my son, so he'd learn younger than I did.

My buddy would stare under the hood of a car at an engine in a daze, he couldn't check his own oil. Yet he could answer any technical question as if he were reading it from a textbook.




Isn't that the truth.
 
Thats why I cited auto repair experience. There's a lot to say for experience. True, most M.E. I worked with know nothing about cars - other than how to drive them - and they dont do THAT too well either (given numerous white knuckle lunchtime excursions). Where I work now there is a insanely gifted guy who just restored a corvair cali turbo. The engine runs super and surprisingly quiet. He runs m1 10w-30 with some ZDDP additive. I didnt ask him what the additive is.
 
The fact that the base allows for a couple of turns is enough to concern me...That area is a weak spot and is you're just asking for a problem if you don't have a filter that has the correct length for threading onto the shaft....

Is it really worth using a filter like that only to have a major failure even if it is probably not very likely...Stick with what works and matches OEM design.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I was going to run the FRAM XG on my toyota for a "longer 7-8K OCI with M1 10w30 HM, but two problems cropped up:
1) Fram XG Filter could only be tightened < 2 turns due to the concave baseplate.
2) Excessive startup noise and noisy, powerless warmed engine on the road.

The FRAM filter was in service for about 4 days, I had a BOSCH/Purolator in my used filter "evidence locker" that I put back in service. The Bosch was removed last Winter (after a couple days service) due to startup noise and VVI cam phasing issues when running M1 AFE. This filter could only be tightened bypass around the nipple threads since its a loose class 3/4"-16 UNC thread fit. No Problems with WIX51396/94 or original equipment Japan OEM Denso 90915-10003. 90915-Yzzf2 Thai denso give me NO oil pressure!? I'm done with FRAM with THIS car.


Used FRAM once on my yaris and Ill never go with it again. Only went 1700miles on it and I was ready for it to go. It was a pain in the rear to get it off too.
 
I got a Fram Xtra Guard filters that I plan on using on my next OCI. With 100's of 1,000,s of Fram Oil Filters sold each year, world wide, I think that the Fram scare belongs in the same category as UFO's and the Easter Bunny. Some are really figments of peoples wild imaginations.
 
Yes, a filter not fitting on the engine is no problem
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And FORD's and Hyundai's and Kia's TSB is just a April Fool's joke. With so many appluications to cover, some will be sub-optimal and some perform horridly and others yet OKAY.
 
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I think "mongo161" is connected to FRAM...
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"stealth marketing much"?
 
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Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Drew summed it up fairly well.

Your post is absurd, Arco, and you really seem like have a very loose grasp on reality.

For some reason, you WANT there to be a problem, and your imagination is creating things that aren't there.

It doesn't matter how many turns it takes to tighten a filter, as long as it is snug and doesn't leak, you're good to go.

The filter would have very little to do with a 'powerless engine', unless it completely blocked oil flow, in which case the oil light would go on. Like Drew said, maybe the oil is too thick - that could cause an engine to feel sluggish, sure.

But the filter has nothing to do with what is going on here!
Sorry I see NO engineering or scientific (flow dynamics) explanantion from you guys. AFA tightening the filter 2 turns - I meant (and stated in previous posts) 2 turns from initial thread engagement on the nipple to 3/4 turns AFTER gasket kisses the mounting face. This is advanced engine class not childrens hour. Sorry if you cannot play.
Requirements:

- B_S in Mechanical Engineering
- Automotive engine building/repair experience
- NIASE/ASE Master
( Some qualifications not required with extensive engine building experience).
OK who is still in?


I've met engineers who couldn't program their cell phones. Met many so called automotive experts/master techs who don't know their [censored] from a hole in the ground. Your credentials are meaningless to the subject matter at hand. You post THE MOST OUTRAGEOUS claims on this forum, and many of us have come to the point of laughing out loud at them.

If you're such a mechanical genius Arco, why not do some oil pressure testing with different oil filters to see if the pressure is different before making ludicrous claims that certain oil filters are affecting your Toyota Yaris's HP. Heck, most people don't even by into bogus claims of air filter HP differences, let alone oil filters.

Here's an explanation of perhaps why your engine felt lower on power - it's been extremely hot all over the country lately, even in the northeast. Higher ambient temps alone will lower hp. In addition, if you start getting any kind of detonation, the knock sensor will tell the ECU to pull back some timing, making engines feel sluggish. Hook up a scan gauge and show us the knock count and take other things into consideration (like ambient conditions) before coming to bizarre conclusions. I'd think someone with such "credentials" and mechanical skills would perhaps take those other things into consideration.



I think the problem is that it is a Yaris, do they even have any power?
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I was going to run the FRAM XG on my toyota for a "longer 7-8K OCI with M1 10w30 HM, but two problems cropped up:
1) Fram XG Filter could only be tightened < 2 turns due to the concave baseplate.
2) Excessive startup noise and noisy, powerless warmed engine on the road.

The FRAM filter was in service for about 4 days, I had a BOSCH/Purolator in my used filter "evidence locker" that I put back in service. The Bosch was removed last Winter (after a couple days service) due to startup noise and VVI cam phasing issues when running M1 AFE. This filter could only be tightened bypass around the nipple threads since its a loose class 3/4"-16 UNC thread fit. No Problems with WIX51396/94 or original equipment Japan OEM Denso 90915-10003. 90915-Yzzf2 Thai denso give me NO oil pressure!? I'm done with FRAM with THIS car.




I just do not fathom how a oil filter could cause a HP loss?
 
Sounds to me like some people here (ahem : engineers) need to take some statistical methodology classes.

Just my observation coming from a math/statistics double major.
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