Picked this up today.. Dad's had it in the barn setting for years and I'm hoping to use this on the new place. In the mid 90's he gave up on a lemon Echo and the trusty Homelight just couldn't cut the big stuff. I think it was only used for 2-3 seasons till they put in central heat and air. My sister got sick around then so hasn't been used since 98. He had it worked on a couple years ago and I think they put the wrong fuel line on. It's not locked up so not sure what it'll need. Except for a bath... a really good bath LOL! Got their 7500 watt generator also, 10 years old and maybe 2 hours on it.
Jonsered 2050 project
- Thread starter wander2039
- Start date
If it has been sitting for a long time, it likely needs a carburetor diaphragm kit and new fuel lines, since they dry out and get hardened with age. I've started saws that have been sitting for many years by just putting in a carb kit. Definitely a saw worth fixing.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Nice hopefully you can restore it. I’ve never heard of this brand before.
That should be a good runner with a little tlc.
Carb kit and plug ordered. Less than $20 not bad.
First round of degreasing done. Now to tear it down.
Looks good, I spent the afternoon cleaning up an old Echo CS-302. Compression is a bit low but we'll see what happens after a cylinder soak with Kroil penetrant.
You want something to fire right up just buy parts LOL. Looked it over today and put a little gas in it. Fired right up on the 4th pull, after warmed up starts on the 1st. A bit smoky but that's probably from the old fuel. I will put the new plug in but I'll leave the carb alone for now. The only thing I see wrong is the return hose? to the fuel tank.. not sure what it is. The main fuel line looks new but that line they must not of replaced. That was too easy.
Put a rope in the cylinder spin the clutch off clockwise and clean and lube the needle bearing. Very often overlooked and often times when the bearing is varnished or dry, the crank surface will get damaged.
Very nice score. You need to refresh the fuel lines, carb kit, and if it had one the impulse hose. You do not want an accidental lean condition to wipe out the top end. Also with this saw being unknown to you keep the high jet rich so it goes in and out of four stroking in the cut. After you get comfortable with the saw you cannkeanbit out so it four strokes as soon as you take the pressure off in the cut and runs smooth in the cut.
Very nice score. You need to refresh the fuel lines, carb kit, and if it had one the impulse hose. You do not want an accidental lean condition to wipe out the top end. Also with this saw being unknown to you keep the high jet rich so it goes in and out of four stroking in the cut. After you get comfortable with the saw you cannkeanbit out so it four strokes as soon as you take the pressure off in the cut and runs smooth in the cut.
Your 2050 is the equiv to a husky 49 model. All plastic rated as a homeowner clamshell saw. But don't let that fool you, this is a very capable and very nice overall saw. I have the 4 cc smaller husky 45 special model and really like it. These are not screamers but have a nice wide toque band so keep the rakers a touch lower at. 030 below the cutter instead of the standard. 025. It will cut better.
Some of those saws had a greasing port on the crank tip so you could hit up the clutch bearing without removing it. My 9 year old Husky 445 does not though.
That is an excellent point, I forgot about that. However on some of my units I had found a black sticky tar like lube in the bearing that was preventing the new grease from entering. Once the bearing, clutch drum, and crank surface is cleaned up, then periodic maint can resume thru that hole.
My guess is the black goo is just burnt to a crisp old grease and finings combined together.
I found a photo off the internet showing your crankcase design (husky 49). Your crank bearings and seals sit in a dish within the plastic housing of the saw (clamshell). On these types of saws, they can actually last a VERY long time if you understand 2 slight limitations. You cannot cut with a dull chain and generate a ton of heat like you could with a pro saw. The heat will spin the bearing and / or melt the plastic recess and create clearance that will cause future failure. Also you cannot bear down on the saw and push thru a cut to speed it up like on a pro saw, this can crack the plastic case and create an air leak.
Other than that, these were made in a time when consumer grade stuff was quality unlike the stuff today.
Other than that, these were made in a time when consumer grade stuff was quality unlike the stuff today.
Working on the lines... what's the purpose of the one on the left? It's connected to the top of the fuel tank runs by the carb and to the other side of the saw. Kinda flush with the case. All it has is a metal plug in the end, doesn't plug in anywhere.
Might be a vent?
It is a vent that allows Vapors to go out but if liquid enters it there is a valve that closes as to not allow liquid to come out the vent when the saw is tilted. It is best not to use carburetor cleaner or anything with acetone xylene or lacquer thinner in it rather just rinse it with some fresh fuel
It's strange it had a brass type of plug in the end of that vent hose. I'm guessing it's so the fluid slowing drains out. Of course tried to reuse it with the new hose but it flew to oblivion. Just cut some copper wiring and shoved it in there. I didn't clean it sounded okay.
Got both lines replaced and plug replaced. As easy as it starts not going to rebuild the carb yet. Ordered the carb kit but it's coming from china. Got a new chain and file to sharpen the old one. It's ready to be used if we ever sign on the new place LOL.
I hate taking a few days off the forum! I miss all of these awesome posts! Good luck on the refurb.
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