Is this worth doing?

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Just about to put my new honda mower in store for the winter and the manual tells you to remove spark plug and put 2 spoonfuls of oil into the spark plug hole and then turn over twice. What does this do apart from fouling the spark plug and making it more difficult to start next Spring?
Do any of you do this to your push mowers?
 
It's just a cheep way to coat the inner cylinder wall with oil (similar to fogging oil) to keep it from rusting.

Nothing to do with seals.

Q.
 
I do not do that to my Honda mower. I just put a little star tron in the last tank, then run it completely out of gas and put it away for the winter. No problems so far.
 
I would run it out of fuel,while maybe mixing in a little fuel preservative with it,while its running its spreading the lube through the carb and cylinder.
 
The 160 series Honda engines have no liner so there's nothing to rust.
It's a good idea, but few do it.

A strong dose of Stabil, making sure it gets in to and through the carb, is all I usually do.
A can of fogging oil, remove the air filter first, is a good substitute.(IMO)
 
I had one stored 11 years in a metal building. 5 horse big wheel Murray.I ran it until it ran out of fuel and put it away. I remember ONCE pulling the starter cord a few times back when. I just sold it to a neighbor. We put fuel in it. Pumped the BULB a few times. It started and ran like it did when stored!
 
I wouldn't bother. those engines are aluminum, it isn't going to rust. Just add a bit of StaBil to the fuel, and run it out of gas, and put it away. that's what I do.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
It's just a cheep way to coat the inner cylinder wall with oil (similar to fogging oil) to keep it from rusting.

Nothing to do with seals.

Q.


+1, Also put the plug back in and pull the rope till it is on a compression stroke. This puts the valves in closed position. There are two advantages, 1)keeps moisture out of cylinder, 2)keeps valve springs from being damaged by being compressed during storge.
 
Thanks for your advice guys-it's a 135 not a 160 but i think it is still an aluminium engine so I think I will give the fogging the cylinder a miss-I will just drain the fuel and leave engine on compression stroke as advised.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
+1, Also put the plug back in and pull the rope till it is on a compression stroke.


How do you tell when the engine is on a compression stroke?
 
Originally Posted By: dakota99
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
+1, Also put the plug back in and pull the rope till it is on a compression stroke.


How do you tell when the engine is on a compression stroke?


pull the rope slowly to allow the engine to rotate. When you feel more resistance, it's on the compression stroke.

Not that it's at all important. How many millions of engines are shut off and left for months if not years with the piston in whatever position it's stops at. Particularly multi cylinder engines. All cylinders can't be on a compression stroke at the same time.

If valve spring failure due to storage was an issue, we'd be seeing/hearing a whole lot more about it.
 
You want fogging oil as it has a tacky component and will coat everything and stay there. Regular oil will just pool at the lowest point.

Many boaters spray in (to the carb) 2 cans of fogging oil at once to cause the engine to stall. One down each primary barrel. This gets the manifold, valves and cylinder coated with the stuff. And a big smoke cloud while you are doing it to admire.
 
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