Is this safe for caliper slide pins?

I used string trimmer line to clear mine when I had a sun roof.
I know but all hoses are working and the tray is overflowing. Ive adjusted and cleaned everything yet it still leaks like its open. I'm about to silicon it shut.
I am trying to avoid hijacking a caliper thread, discussing a sunroof leak. (Even though it's related with the silicone lube.)
BUT - I've found the best way to check drain hoses for blockage is with a disposable 16oz cup, slowly pouring water in each corner of the trays, with the roof open.
The point I was making is the seals around a sunroof don't actually seal, they just slow down the leakage to a trickle. And the silicone lubricant can't really help them out much, to seal.
 
Because of ChatGPT? Yeah - look at the answer it provided. Complete garbage. It said “silicone” and offered up a completely ridiculous suggestion - something with silicone that won’t work well at all.

It’s like asking ChatGPT what an engine needs, and it offers up “oil” and then recommends extra virgin olive oil…
Well, over the course of my involvement here, I have seen your disgust for WD40. So much so that it is quite comical.....That is why I mentioned you.
 
Well, over the course of my involvement here, I have seen your disgust for WD40. So much so that it is quite comical.....That is why I mentioned you.
Not disgust at the product - disgust at the misapplication of the product.

Works great if used correctly - but it is not a substitute for a lubricant, it’s lousy at that, and it is a terrible preservative.

You know you’re dealing with an amateur if they apply WD-40 in hopes of doing anything other than displacing moisture.
 
On my vehicle sunroofs I use the Permatex blue or purple whatever it is by putting the sunroof in the outside position and cleaning the seal first and then put the permatex on a rag and rub it on the sunroof seal inner and outer. Seal won't leak for about a year.
 
I
Not disgust at the product - disgust at the misapplication of the product.

Works great if used correctly - but it is not a substitute for a lubricant, it’s lousy at that, and it is a terrible preservative.

You know you’re dealing with an amateur if they apply WD-40 in hopes of doing anything other than displacing moisture.
Have found that WD40 works really well as a cleaner. It is excellent for removing gummy stuff.

Funny WD40 story:

So over the years on jobsites installing copper piping for water distribution and sometimes drainage piping, one learns that there are some do and dont's, and absolutely dont's. One of the 100% never dont's, is using wd40 for anything having to do with copper tubing or pipe. Don't use wd40 on copper tubing cutters, don't store wd40 near copper fittings, flux, MAPP gas cans, B-tank hoses.......nothing. Reason being, if wd40 is on the surface of the copper, it will not under any circumstances soft solder. Once it is on the pipe, it is nearly impossible to remove it to an extent as to where the proper cleaning and fluxing of the copper will allow solder to flow where it needs to. The pipe can be cleaned such that it can be used, but it is very labor intensive and greatly darkens the pipe from the copper shine to a dark grey metallic petina.

Many years ago, in Boone, NC I was contract to plumb a log cabin kit build. 100% with copper. Used stainless hangers and rod, copper drains, and copper tubing. All the plumbing would be 100% exposed and had to look like a million bucks. I had a good reputation for workmanship and a builder who I had never worked for called me out of nowhere for the job. "Dont care about the cost" he said.......music to my ears.

So I looked at the job, and order materials to suit. Copper drainage stuff is not too common in these parts so much was very newly made. The copper tubing I selected was fresh. In fact I bought a whole bundle of each size, so it would have the least amount of handling marks from forklifts and the like. Very expensive. The customer wanted pristine, and do to the nature of material handling in the industry....it was a must. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 25K in copper materials

Anyway, I brought it to the site and placed it on some saw horses....and came back on monday. It was a highly secure site, with cameras and such, so i felt better with the materials on site rather than on my open trailer over the weekend. Less handling the better.

That Sunday I got a call from the builder, whos wife was also the designer.......one of the ones who came up with the idea of the rough but pristine copper piping, exposed throughout the log cabin. He was asking me how to get some of the tarnish off of the pipe and fittings an such. I explained that in order to do the work like they wanted, we would have to go over all the piping with a scrubber pad after all the joints had been made to shine everything up and make everything look uniform.....then after we were done with that step, I was going to go over all the piping with a clear coat of paint, so the copper would not oxidize over time.......I had done similar jobs before. He said "oh, I thought wd40 would work pretty well..........I bought a few cans and wiped all the wipes for you thinking it would shine up a bit, and they did a little".

GC paid for the pipe, and the next order. Job complete and it was nice. I have developed photos of the work, no electronic ones. Maybe one of the most expensive WD40 stories ever.

A few years later, the cabin was sold and the new owners ending up painting the interior decorator white along with all the pipe that I had worked so hard to install......such as life.
 
I had that purple sludge seize my akebono calipers hard as a rock! Obviously it was the pin that had the rubber bushing on the end of it but none the less. Plus when I lubed up my pad ears (which I no longer do) it had turned to an almost concrete paste when mixed with brake dust and dirt. Horrible horrible stuff! I now just use a Dielectric silicone paste that’s rated for 450 degrees and on the slide pins only.
 
I had that purple sludge seize my akebono calipers hard as a rock! Obviously it was the pin that had the rubber bushing on the end of it but none the less. Plus when I lubed up my pad ears (which I no longer do) it had turned to an almost concrete paste when mixed with brake dust and dirt. Horrible horrible stuff! I now just use a Dielectric silicone paste that’s rated for 450 degrees and on the slide pins only.
sounds about right
 
Because of ChatGPT? Yeah - look at the answer it provided. Complete garbage. It said “silicone” and offered up a completely ridiculous suggestion - something with silicone that won’t work well at all.

It’s like asking ChatGPT what an engine needs, and it offers up “oil” and then recommends extra virgin olive oil…

As long as it's cold pressed....
 
I use silicone grease. It's inert, resistant to any washout, and compatible with the rubber seal. I have a tube of silicone grease that will likely last me my lifetime.
 
Posted this before and I will post it again. I have been using this stuff for years and it has not let me down. I do the slide pins every few years and i have found no noticeable change. Other than color, it comes out like it went in.

Screenshot_20250803_085827_Samsung Internet.webp
 
You forgot the number one pin lube
View attachment 291605pin lube
It might be fine (it says "brake pads" on the back... nothing about pins tho), but that's the Sil-Glyde "Multi-purpose".

The Sil-Glyde brake lubricant is a hair cheaper. Maybe it's the same stuff, maybe not. The "new" label on the MP has some different labelling than the "old" label shown on the Brake lubricant:
  1. MP doesn't cause cancer in the state of California (they'd have to say if it did). The brake lube does.
  2. MP has a more limited temperature range (up to 400F instead of 425F)
  3. If you get the brake lubricant in your eyes, it instructs you to rinse out this "moisture proof" product out with water.
 
From my personal experience, the AGS Sil-Glyde failed and seized up one of my slide pins on a ‘03 Corolla. Surprisingly it was NOT the pin with the rubber bushing but the opposite solid pin. The boot was undamaged and intact too so no salt or water intrusion. The other caliper also exhibited signs of seizing but luckily could separate. Took 1.5hrs of repeated soaking, heating, twisting, impacting until it finally released with the destroyed pin as collateral. I’m sure Sil-Glyde works if you regularly service them annually but I mistakenly didn’t look at them for about 3 years. I have a ‘15 Toyota Sienna with all original brakes with 65K and only inspected just recently and no issues with slide pins. I am swapping over to the Toyota grease for the caliper pins moving foward. P/N 08887-01206
After a recent hilly drive, I noticed a “wub wub wub” sound from my passenger rear wheel but only when braking under 30 mph, and again from a dead stop take off as the calipers slowly release. I used Sil-Glyde on the caliper pins of my 2000 Camry back in April of last year when I did the brakes. I bet the hilly drive that demanded lots of steep elevation braking cooked the Sil-Glyde and that caliper’s slide pins are binding up..
 
If you have an old, leaky engine, WD40 is great for wiping down wiring harnii that are coated in years of oil. Much more practical than soap and a water hose in most shop environments, and if you have open connectors it doesn't matter if WD gets in there or stays in there when you plug them back together.

I also swear by it for installing stubborn cooling hoses.

I'll sometimes use it as a "test lubricant," ie spray a suspected noisy component and see if the noise goes away, but I don't consider it a lasting lubricant.

Ironically, for a lubricant/penetrant I've been using Brothers JB80, which they jokingly say is "twice as good" right on the can :D
 
I have 1.5 bottles left. I greased my caliper pins during a pad replacement before Covid and the brakes feel great. Maybe I am imagining things but well lubricated pins are essential for proper caliper piston retraction. I ceramalube the pad’s ears, the caliper piston surface and any caliper contact points.

Who said there is no such thing as unicorn 🦄 tears. Lol

View attachment 291618
I would go with this as opposed to Sil-Glyde.

And forget the WD-40 spray.
 
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